Cooling system question (1 off application)

hihok9 · 11-27-2008, 08:50 PM

Is there any reason why I can't move one of the down pipes on the T Bar manifold (metal) that runs between the two upper coolant pipes? The one I want to move is the inner nipple that goes to the thermostat bypass line. I just want to move it towards the passenger side, about as far away from the hose connection as the one on the drivers side that goes to the upper side of the radiator. I need the space in front of the engine. Comments or thoughts welcome. Thanks!

hihok9 · 11-27-2008, 09:17 PM

Please disregard the sanding dust and makeshift hood prop.

65ZR1 · 11-28-2008, 07:00 AM

Car looks great. Richard, the guy with the 55 vert, made his own tube from stainless. He even made his own thermostat housing. Nothing was even close to the original configuration but it ran great. I dont think it would be a problem to move the pipe.

bad-zr1 · 11-28-2008, 08:24 AM

You probably already know that the bypass system works by pressure differential so as long as the diameter or flow doesn't change you should be good to go. The new bypass hose may even give you more room if you are using the original fan as the stock hose comes pretty close to one of the braces.

hihok9 · 11-28-2008, 09:56 AM

Thanks Chris!

All body work is completed including hanging the bumpers. Body in gel coat and just fabbing cooling & exhaust before it goes to paint. When body is on paint dolly I'll have all winter to tear down the chassis and powder coat. How are you coming with yours?

glass slipper · 11-29-2008, 08:11 AM

If your radiator can handle the flow rate of the water pump at 7000 RPM (100 GPM), you don't need the bypass portion...just cap it off. The only reason the bypass system is there is because GM was too cheap to give the ZR-1 its' own radiator and the L98 radiator blows up before 100 GPM.

Tyler Townsley · 11-29-2008, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glass slipper

If your radiator can handle the flow rate of the water pump at 7000 RPM (100 GPM), you don't need the bypass portion...just cap it off. The only reason the bypass system is there is because GM was too cheap to give the ZR-1 its' own radiator and the L98 radiator blows up before 100 GPM.

Not completely true! IF you cut the spring that closes off the flow from the radiator to the pump you can eliminate the bypass but if you have a functional thermo you MUST have the bypass otherwise the thermo does not get hot enough to open before the motor suffers damage due to heat. The bypass is what heats the thermo so it can open.

65ZR1 · 12-01-2008, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hihok9

Thanks Chris!

All body work is completed including hanging the bumpers. Body in gel coat and just fabbing cooling & exhaust before it goes to paint. When body is on paint dolly I'll have all winter to tear down the chassis and powder coat. How are you coming with yours?

Not as good as you are. Wedding plans etc. have limited my time. I decided to make my own floor pan from front to rear. The rear is done ( the hardest part) and Im working on the front now. The good news is most of the wiring, steering, brakes etc is done and sitting in boxes ready to go back on. Ive set a goal of next summer to have it in driving condition. Keep me posted on your progresss! I believe you have my email but if you dont I can send it again.

Kris