I am attempting to re-install and the conecting pin to the transmission and it won't seat itself completly. Beated on it with a light hammer and a drift and there's still about 1/16" of an inch sticking out.
Should I hit it harder with a small mini-sledge or grind off with a Dremel???
I have tried everything including hitting it with a sledge hammer....looks like I'll have to drop the transmission to drive it out from above and have a new pin machined...hopefully I won't have to replace the cracked transmission
These FRICKIN Hurst shifters basically SUCK!
Last edited by BlackRocket; 11-20-2006 at 04:07 AM.
It's well worth it once you get it done. I'm with DMark, have someone try moving the shifter around a bit while you try to tap it in before giving up and making the project even bigger.
I am attempting to re-install and the conecting pin to the transmission and it won't seat itself completly. Beated on it with a light hammer and a drift and there's still about 1/16" of an inch sticking out.
Should I hit it harder with a small mini-sledge or grind off with a Dremel???
Thanks!
Contact Bill Boudreau regarding your pin issues...he will know EXACTLY what to do.
Just drive it in until its jammed as far as it will go and mushroom the head. It won't be coming out after that.
Wow! Can't imagine people do things like this. Oh well, thats what you get when you buy a used car. I had no problems installing my Hurst, then again I took a long day into night to do it right.
If you have to beat, pound, smash, mushroom etc. to make something fit you really don't belong working on a car, have someone else do it (that can be a problem in itself, so choose a mechanic wisely).
You don't need good luck for this job, just someone who is mechanically inclined. Sorry for the negative tone but if you can't do it with the tranny installed then remove it, and do it right-of course the parts are probably all beat to **** now & it won't matter....
I think you asked for help after-the-fact...
__________________
Later- Bob
ZR-1 WEB PAGE : http://axoplasmic.com/AXOPLASMIC/ZR1.html 1995 Corvette Coupe ZR-1LT5(350/405) A.L.Dunn Heads, 6sp, Dark Red Metallic/Black(#418) ~12K Miles, B&B TriFlo & X Pipe, Alspaugh Headers, RT Cats, P&P, Baer, K&N, Haibeck Chip, 376.5 RWHP/341.5 RWTQ @ 3600ft 1988 Corvette Coupe Z51L98(350/240) 4+3, Grey Metallic/Black 1969 Corvette CoupeL46(350/350) 4sp, LeMans Blue/Blue
The drive pins are always very snug. If you want to pull the transmission just so you can get the snap ring on then that is your perogative, but in order of importance the snap ring is very insignificant and a snug drive pin does the job the same. When I bought my car it came with a new tranny from Aamco. They installed the tranny without the snap ring and it worked fine for 15,000 miles. Then I installed the B&M and noticed there was no snap ring. I reinstalled the pin and after hitting with a dead blow hammer and a punch, the drive pin still wasn't all the way in. So I got on here and everyone has the exact same problem and many can't get the pin all the way in. So I was faced with the decision, do I pull the tranny so that I can get the drive pin to go in 1 additional mm or do I leave it. Well, I left it and that was 4,000 miles ago with no problems with a great shifter.