I have a 1990 ZR1 with 20K miles. I have owned for about 2 years and this warning light has been on since I bought it. I finally decided to do the "fix" I read about on the ZR1 Net. I decided to go one further and replace both sensors. All is now tight and hooked up properly. The car has no mods other than a Doug R chip and intake sensor relo. Light is still on. Any Ideas?
Location: This city NEVER sleeps! Frank's back yard!
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEegs
I have a 1990 ZR1 with 20K miles. I have owned for about 2 years and this warning light has been on since I bought it. I finally decided to do the "fix" I read about on the ZR1 Net. I decided to go one further and replace both sensors. All is now tight and hooked up properly. The car has no mods other than a Doug R chip and intake sensor relo. Light is still on. Any Ideas?
Mike
The sensors rarely go bad, so that was a bit of a waste of money. Did you reset the code? If not, then you need to do that and see if the code comes back. There is a specific way to reset it - by grounding and ungrounding one of the pins in the aldl - can't remember offhand, but the thread on the net should tell you. The codes that come back after you reset will tell you which side is still not grounded properly.
Location: Thornton,Co. Press 1 to Proceed in English or 2 for Deportation ...don't let the fence hit you in the azz!
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEegs
I have a 1990 ZR1 with 20K miles. I have owned for about 2 years and this warning light has been on since I bought it. I finally decided to do the "fix" I read about on the ZR1 Net. I decided to go one further and replace both sensors. All is now tight and hooked up properly. The car has no mods other than a Doug R chip and intake sensor relo. Light is still on. Any Ideas?
Mike
I have a 90 air bag code clearance tool from Mid America. It's FREE if you want it, just send a few dollars for shipping. It worked for my 90 back in the day(before the destruction), PM me if ya want it!!!
Got it, I replaced because I read that it could have been the sensors so I figured, I'm in there, why not...I did not reset the code. That's good advice! I will do that. Thanks
Location: This city NEVER sleeps! Frank's back yard!
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEegs
Got it, I replaced because I read that it could have been the sensors so I figured, I'm in there, why not...I did not reset the code. That's good advice! I will do that. Thanks
You're welcome - Ry's offer for the code clearer is a sweet one - it is difficult to do it without this tool as the timing is essential. I would take him up on it if I was in your shoes! Good luck.
I bought Gordon's plugs for around $30 or $35. Then for insurance, I bought the Mid-America gadget for around $29, all plus shipping.
Then a few of the forum members walked me thru it, and with a piece of wire from my work bench. To clear the codes, I had to have a longer piece of wire to ground it to the seat frame.
Cost of the pieces of wire? $0.00.
Not knocking the other high-tech gadgets I bought, but the pieces of wire worked for me.
Eeggs: How did you get the passenger side sensor out, or how did you get to the mounting bolts?
Boatman
The diagnostic module in mine went bad. After finding a replacement, I examined the old one. There are 2 covers on the unit - 1 over the connector and a 2nd with a warning about 35v.
Under the 2nd cover is a removeable capacitor module. My cap had shorted, causing the module to fail.
I'm with Boatman on that Q! I looked at the pass side sensor & it looks like the inner wheel well panels, center & rear, must come out & the fender comes off and the washer bottle has to be removed.
On the pass side sensor, it actually was very easy. 1) Rear wheel well piece comes out. 2) take out the forward bolt first. 3) rear bolt is almost impossible to reach but you can loosen it with some finess. 4)Once you get it to break you can spin the sensor around for easy access. I found that to be much easier then taking out some of the other parts. I will warn you that it is not the easiest place to reach but doable!
Another thing to check is the connections under the dash. It is a different looking connector that will get some oxidation and cause the same problem. Use some contact cleaner on it and reconnect.
[quote=Tyler Townsley]Another thing to check is the conunder the dash.nections It is a different looking connector that will get some oxidation and cause the same problem. Use some contact cleaner on it and reconnect.
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After cleaning up the drivers side sensor, the passenger side sensor looked fine, (I hoped as it looked new).
One of the forum members, and now I forget his name, from New Jersey, called and walked me thru the testing and clear codes process. JeffVette, Tyler and TomTom gave me good advice on this also.
I looked up under the dash, passenger side, and right behind the top of the carpet was the connector. Looked fine, and I think they are gold plated. I dis-connected, sprayed electronic cleaner on the pins, etc., hooked back up, connected battery, then was able to clear the codes successfully.
Boatman
Ok thanks to all here!! I have cracked the INFL Rest problem. Check out this article. As you can see above I replaced both sensors but I was still getting 16 & 15 code (see article, I'm an expert now ) I followed "ED's" method to reset but I did have to try it several times.
Location: This city NEVER sleeps! Frank's back yard!
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEegs
Ok thanks to all here!! I have cracked the INFL Rest problem. Check out this article. As you can see above I replaced both sensors but I was still getting 16 & 15 code (see article, I'm an expert now ) I followed "ED's" method to reset but I did have to try it several times.
The air bag on that side will not deploy in an accident. Check the connector first, it is easy to get to and seems to be the real problem in most cases.
Corvette Store
Infl Rest Light
After cleaning up the drivers side sensor, the passenger side sensor looked fine, (I hoped as it looked new).
) I followed "ED's" method to reset but I did have to try it several times. 
