How do I know if the FX3 system is working, no lights at startup, no codes. Does it make noise when you change the settings? I don't feel any difference.
does the bulb come on at start up then go out..thats what its spose to do.. thats when its doing its system check..if it dont come on at all... bulb might be burned out or taken out.. you should be able to tell a difference in the ride.... ive had lots of experiance with the FX 3 with my 95.. let me know more details when u get them, Jeff
I think you could disengage the actuators from the shocks one at a time and have a look to see if they all work (you will need someone moving the switch while you look at the actuator)
does the bulb come on at start up then go out..thats what its spose to do.. thats when its doing its system check..if it dont come on at all... bulb might be burned out or taken out.. you should be able to tell a difference in the ride.... ive had lots of experiance with the FX 3 with my 95.. let me know more details when u get them, Jeff
No light when when the key is in the on postion, it may be the bulb.
I might try disengaging the actuators and testing, but I have never done it before and I'm not sure where to start.
the bulb is prolly pulled out. which means theres was codes meaning a problem. its easy to take off the front actautors. theres a little clip at the bottem of the little black actuators at the top of the shocks. pull the clips off then pull the actuator up.. look at the top of the shock at the little grear.. see if its broke it should only turn part way around.. then look up inside the actuator.. theres a little plastic gear in there that tends to break. also look for oil coming out of the top of the shock around the gear. if there is a problem like this with any of the 4 shocks.. it will lock out the system.
you will have to get the DIC out and check to see if the light bulb is in there where it is supposed to be, Nice trick to make it look like its not throwing a code.
It would be a good idea to do this asap and see if any other bulbs are pulled out.
if you need help getting that baby out let me know and ill walk you through it
There is a concrete road I travel once in a while that was poured poorly. With the FX3 in Performance, it's up and down, up and down. But if I switch it to touring, it instantly levels out the ride.
does the bulb come on at start up then go out..thats what its spose to do.. thats when its doing its system check..if it dont come on at all... bulb might be burned out or taken out.. you should be able to tell a difference in the ride.... ive had lots of experiance with the FX 3 with my 95.. let me know more details when u get them, Jeff
I started looking at this problem again today; I pulled off all of the actuators and had someone change the setting while watching. None of them worked,
All the shocks look clean. It looks like they are getting no power, could it be a fuse? Next I'm going to check the bulb to see if it was pulled.
yes pull the console covers and see if the bulb is burned out or pulled then you can see if you have any codes. when you pulled off the actuators did any of the plastic gears inside look broke or any of the little gears on top the shock look broke??.. plus what u want to do is look inside the actuator while someone turns the key to on.. and see if the gears turns back and forth. thats when it does its system check.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR!
There is a concrete road I travel once in a while that was poured poorly. With the FX3 in Performance, it's up and down, up and down. But if I switch it to touring, it instantly levels out the ride.
It convinced me that mine is working.
Railroad tracks, or any bumpy road. Drive over repeatidly in the different settings, and see if you can feel a difference.
BTW, the check where you look at the actuator (removed from the shock) while someone turns the switch while the key is in the on position isn't a valid test.
When you turn the key on, the actuators will rotate to the end position, then rotate opposite to the start position (this you can see and it takes about two seconds, and the "service ride control" light will be on at that time and will go out when the computer sees that all shocks and actuators are working properly). So having someone inside changing the settings is useless because the car is not moving (the computer is reading no vehicle speed).
Last edited by Z-07 freak; 05-07-2005 at 09:39 PM.
I believe Red95 meant someone should turn the ignition key to the on position but not all the way to the start position while someone looks at the gear in the actuator during the system check. I think this is a valid test to see if the actuator is turning or not, it should turn during the system check. Turning the console switch to different ride settings while the ignition key is in the on position doesn't tell anything though, that's also correct.
Railroad tracks, or any bumpy road. Drive over repeatidly in the different settings, and see if you can feel a difference.
BTW, the check where you look at the actuator (removed from the shock) while someone turns the switch while the key is in the on position isn't a valid test.
When you turn the key on, the actuators will rotate to the end position, then rotate opposite to the start position (this you can see and it takes about two seconds, and the "service ride control" light will be on at that time and will go out when the computer sees that all shocks and actuators are working properly). So having someone inside changing the settings is useless because the car is not moving (the computer is reading no vehicle speed).
I just tried that test, no movement on any actuator, no codes, no service ride control light. I think the bulb was pulled or is burned out. Next I'm going to check bulb.
Location: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Quote:
Originally Posted by slarson
I just tried that test, no movement on any actuator, no codes, no service ride control light. I think the bulb was pulled or is burned out. Next I'm going to check bulb.
If you have no movement preiod, check to make sure the whole system has been disconnected. It's in the bin behind the driver seat with the ABS module.
Let me add to that. The actuator, should stll make noise even though it is "broken" The piece that breaks is actually the gear teeth inside. The motor will still function. When turning the key on, it will try to find the end stops.
If you have no movement preiod, check to make sure the whole system has been disconnected. It's in the bin behind the driver seat with the ABS module.
Let me add to that. The actuator, should stll make noise even though it is "broken" The piece that breaks is actually the gear teeth inside. The motor will still function. When turning the key on, it will try to find the end stops.
It was disconnected, I connected it then started the car, and the "service ride control" light came on for about 15 seconds and then went out. I'm now going to drive it over some rough roads to see if it works.
So by the light coming on for 15 seconds and going out it must be passing diagnostics. I don't why it was diconnected.
Last edited by slarson; 05-08-2005 at 07:44 PM.
Reason: typo
Drove it today but as soon as I switched it to performace mode the light came on. So I'm back to trouble shooting the actuators. When I turn the car off it clears and stays off on tour and sport but soon as I try performance I get the light.
New actuators 399.99 on Ecklers, YIKES!
Location: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Well, it sounds like the system makes it through the self test with out a hitch. But when switching modes it sets a fault. Find the code, check the shock gear to make sure it is not tight and that it spins with ease. Take the opposite side actuator off and switch them to see if it follows the swap.
Well, it sounds like the system makes it through the self test with out a hitch. But when switching modes it sets a fault. Find the code, check the shock gear to make sure it is not tight and that it spins with ease. Take the opposite side actuator off and switch them to see if it follows the swap.
Good advice,
When I took the front actuators off I could not move the shock gear.
I was not sure if it should move easly or not. This weekend I'm going to pull the codes and do as you advised. I hope I can figure it out.
Thanks...
Last edited by slarson; 05-10-2005 at 02:15 PM.
Reason: typo
Tried pulling the codes today, the only thing I got was the "service ride control" light stayed on did and did not blink.
Does anyone know what this means? Or maybe I'm not doing it right.
You could not move the gear on top of the shock at all? It should turn easily with just your fingers until it hits the stops on the bottom of the gear.
You could not move the gear on top of the shock at all? It should turn easily with just your fingers until it hits the stops on the bottom of the gear.
No it does not move, I only checked the front left shock. I plan on checking all of them tomorrow. Do you know what pins I should use to pull codes for a 12 pin DLC?
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