LT4 coil on LT1 question!
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St. Jude Donor '05
LT4 coil on LT1 question!
I picked up an Lt4 coil and want to put it on my 92 LT1 but after closer inspection it looks as though the connections are different. I thought this was a pretty common swap do I need to buy an LT4 coil connector to splice into my wiring or is there an easier way to do this?
thanks,
Joe
thanks,
Joe
#3
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Originally Posted by ToyC4
I picked up an Lt4 coil and want to put it on my 92 LT1 but after closer inspection it looks as though the connections are different. I thought this was a pretty common swap do I need to buy an LT4 coil connector to splice into my wiring or is there an easier way to do this?
thanks,
Joe
thanks,
Joe
Do a search of the archives on my name, I posted how to do this in detail earlier -- including the connector part number from GM.
I am running the '96 ignition system on my '92. You will have to run a wire to your tach filter.
Tom Piper
#5
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I did a search of the archives myself and can't find it.
If it is still available somewhere, I had a detailed writeup of how to do this -- it included all pin numbers and the GM part number for the connector.
Basically, without the detail of pinouts and part numbers, here is what is needed:
1) '96 coil.
2) '96 ignition module.
3) GM primary coil connector for the '96 coil -- about $3 at dealer, and you will have to splice some wires together or put a couple of wires in the same pin of the connector for the tach connection.
4) High-voltage ignition wire from coil to Opti-Spark for '96 -- the '96 coil high voltage terminal is different.
5) Attach the white wire for the tach filter to the appropriate terminal on the new GM coil connector from step 3.
The reason you have to connect the tach filter is because the '96 tach is driven directly from the ECM -- earlier tachs were driven from the coil.
The '96 ignition was improved to allow the LT4 to "reliably" reach the higher redline (about 6400). It is an improvement over the earlier LT1 ignition systems. Some people call it a "smart coil."
Tom Piper
If it is still available somewhere, I had a detailed writeup of how to do this -- it included all pin numbers and the GM part number for the connector.
Basically, without the detail of pinouts and part numbers, here is what is needed:
1) '96 coil.
2) '96 ignition module.
3) GM primary coil connector for the '96 coil -- about $3 at dealer, and you will have to splice some wires together or put a couple of wires in the same pin of the connector for the tach connection.
4) High-voltage ignition wire from coil to Opti-Spark for '96 -- the '96 coil high voltage terminal is different.
5) Attach the white wire for the tach filter to the appropriate terminal on the new GM coil connector from step 3.
The reason you have to connect the tach filter is because the '96 tach is driven directly from the ECM -- earlier tachs were driven from the coil.
The '96 ignition was improved to allow the LT4 to "reliably" reach the higher redline (about 6400). It is an improvement over the earlier LT1 ignition systems. Some people call it a "smart coil."
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; 12-01-2004 at 08:01 AM.
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St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
I did a search of the archives myself and can't find it.
If it is still available somewhere, I had a detailed writeup of how to do this -- it included all pin numbers and the GM part number for the connector.
Basically, without the detail of pinouts and part numbers, here is what is needed:
1) '96 coil.
2) '96 ignition module.
3) GM primary coil connector for the '96 coil -- about $3 at dealer, and you will have to splice some wires together or put a couple of wires in the same pin of the connector for the tach connection.
4) High-voltage ignition wire from coil to Opti-Spark for '96 -- the '96 coil high voltage terminal is different.
5) Attach the white wire for the tach filter to the appropriate terminal on the new GM coil connector from step 3.
The reason you have to connect the tach filter is because the '96 tach is driven directly from the ECM -- earlier tachs were driven from the coil.
The '96 ignition was improved to allow the LT4 to "reliably" reach the higher redline (about 6400). It is an improvement over the earlier LT1 ignition systems. Some people call it a "smart coil."
Tom Piper
If it is still available somewhere, I had a detailed writeup of how to do this -- it included all pin numbers and the GM part number for the connector.
Basically, without the detail of pinouts and part numbers, here is what is needed:
1) '96 coil.
2) '96 ignition module.
3) GM primary coil connector for the '96 coil -- about $3 at dealer, and you will have to splice some wires together or put a couple of wires in the same pin of the connector for the tach connection.
4) High-voltage ignition wire from coil to Opti-Spark for '96 -- the '96 coil high voltage terminal is different.
5) Attach the white wire for the tach filter to the appropriate terminal on the new GM coil connector from step 3.
The reason you have to connect the tach filter is because the '96 tach is driven directly from the ECM -- earlier tachs were driven from the coil.
The '96 ignition was improved to allow the LT4 to "reliably" reach the higher redline (about 6400). It is an improvement over the earlier LT1 ignition systems. Some people call it a "smart coil."
Tom Piper
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Originally Posted by ToyC4
I picked up an Lt4 coil and want to put it on my 92 LT1 but after closer inspection it looks as though the connections are different. I thought this was a pretty common swap do I need to buy an LT4 coil connector to splice into my wiring or is there an easier way to do this?
thanks,
Joe
thanks,
Joe
Hey Joe, I see you received the coil and module, I didn't realize there was a difference with the earlier LT's, I have the connectors for the coil and module. I clipped them off because they were not needed with the LTCC conv. I cut the wires pretty close to the connector but if you want them I'll send them to you. Greg
#8
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Originally Posted by 99svrcpe
I cut the wires pretty close to the connector but if you want them I'll send them to you. Greg
After the old pins are out, you can buy just the pins at the local dealership and put new wires in the pins and push them into the connector -- I wish the archive search worked, because I had the pin numbers and the color of the wires needed in each pin listed.
The techs at the dealership have various pins on hand to make connectors.
Tom Piper
#9
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Tom I did a search as well, I was able to go back as far as August of 2001, but nothing turned up discussing this.
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St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by 99svrcpe
Hey Joe, I see you received the coil and module, I didn't realize there was a difference with the earlier LT's, I have the connectors for the coil and module. I clipped them off because they were not needed with the LTCC conv. I cut the wires pretty close to the connector but if you want them I'll send them to you. Greg
thanks,
Joe
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St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
If you have the connector, you can eject the old pins, that have the short wires attached, from the connector.
After the old pins are out, you can buy just the pins at the local dealership and put new wires in the pins and push them into the connector -- I wish the archive search worked, because I had the pin numbers and the color of the wires needed in each pin listed.
The techs at the dealership have various pins on hand to make connectors.
Tom Piper
After the old pins are out, you can buy just the pins at the local dealership and put new wires in the pins and push them into the connector -- I wish the archive search worked, because I had the pin numbers and the color of the wires needed in each pin listed.
The techs at the dealership have various pins on hand to make connectors.
Tom Piper
thanks for the help guys
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St. Jude Donor '03
I got one of those MSD hot coils for about $40. Any reason you wouldn't want one of those? Mines been working good for a couple years now.
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St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by VictorRussell'92
I got one of those MSD hot coils for about $40. Any reason you wouldn't want one of those? Mines been working good for a couple years now.
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St. Jude Donor '05
Victor -
I know this is going to sound silly but I've tried to keep the car looking stock - at some point in my project this went downhill with the BBK TB and the SLP intake but everything else looks stock. I realize that the coil wouldn't even be noticable - I guess it's all in my head Anyone looking at the car will be able to tell it's not stock the minute they hear it start. ok I guess the headers are a give away too
I know this is going to sound silly but I've tried to keep the car looking stock - at some point in my project this went downhill with the BBK TB and the SLP intake but everything else looks stock. I realize that the coil wouldn't even be noticable - I guess it's all in my head Anyone looking at the car will be able to tell it's not stock the minute they hear it start. ok I guess the headers are a give away too
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Originally Posted by ToyC4
I might be able to solder to the old pins and just re-use them to save the time of trying to hunt these down
thanks for the help guys
thanks for the help guys
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St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by 99svrcpe
actually..I left about 1" 1/2 of wire on the coil connector but the module connector only has about 1/4". I'll drop these in the mail today.
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St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by ToyC4
Victor -
I know this is going to sound silly but I've tried to keep the car looking stock - at some point in my project this went downhill with the BBK TB and the SLP intake but everything else looks stock. I realize that the coil wouldn't even be noticable - I guess it's all in my head Anyone looking at the car will be able to tell it's not stock the minute they hear it start. ok I guess the headers are a give away too
I know this is going to sound silly but I've tried to keep the car looking stock - at some point in my project this went downhill with the BBK TB and the SLP intake but everything else looks stock. I realize that the coil wouldn't even be noticable - I guess it's all in my head Anyone looking at the car will be able to tell it's not stock the minute they hear it start. ok I guess the headers are a give away too
Besides the laundry list of modifications you got there, it's perfectly stock.
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Originally Posted by VictorRussell'92
Heh
Besides the laundry list of modifications you got there, it's perfectly stock.
Besides the laundry list of modifications you got there, it's perfectly stock.
#20
Originally Posted by 99svrcpe
My original plan was to keep my car looking stock but that didn't last long