Horn and Security Light Won't Work
#1
Horn and Security Light Won't Work
Wierd series of events on my '86 coupe.... one of the horns wouldn't work, so I twisted the little screw on the back and that "freed up" whatever was frozen in there. Being a little proavtive, I adjusted the other one too. They sounded great....
Next day, I come home from work and do my usual routine: open the driver's door to get out, hit the electric door lock, hit the hatch switch, close the driver's door, and get my stuff out of the hatch compartment....
As I'm closing the hatch, I didn't close it hard enough to catch the lock. It sprang open and the car's alarm sets the horns blowing. I walk over to the driver's door and insert the door key and twist. The horns stop. Textbook, right?
Next day driving, I needed to use my horn and got nothing. I ran a wire from the battery to one of the horns and it still works. I've pulled the button off the steering wheel and grounded the wire and got nothing. I've read a few posts here about the VATS and horns, and noticed that when I now hit the electric locks, the Security Light doesn't light on the dash, and the car starts fine. VATS fuse is good, unless there's a hairline crack in it that I didn't see.
Any thoughts?
Next day, I come home from work and do my usual routine: open the driver's door to get out, hit the electric door lock, hit the hatch switch, close the driver's door, and get my stuff out of the hatch compartment....
As I'm closing the hatch, I didn't close it hard enough to catch the lock. It sprang open and the car's alarm sets the horns blowing. I walk over to the driver's door and insert the door key and twist. The horns stop. Textbook, right?
Next day driving, I needed to use my horn and got nothing. I ran a wire from the battery to one of the horns and it still works. I've pulled the button off the steering wheel and grounded the wire and got nothing. I've read a few posts here about the VATS and horns, and noticed that when I now hit the electric locks, the Security Light doesn't light on the dash, and the car starts fine. VATS fuse is good, unless there's a hairline crack in it that I didn't see.
Any thoughts?
#2
Le Mans Master
Why don't you pull the fuse and using a meter check if you have power there? I really hated the stock alarm-finaly replaced it with an Avital-works great and never looked back.
#5
I'll have to investigate this some more. I've got a Clifford alarm (600) on the car which is integrated to work WITH the factory alarm. The Clifford is acting different too. The voice box says the "Trunk Trigger was Activated." So, I was looking at the factory hatch switch, but I'm not sure if I found it. The pages in the shop manual don't show it very clearly.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: High Plains Drifter Fayetteville, AR
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The situation you have described is the syptoms of the security fuse blowing out.
Remove the trim from the center dash area, remove the DIC, and you'll see a fuse in there. I would gaurantee it's blown. Will take you all of 20 minutes to check.
Remove the trim from the center dash area, remove the DIC, and you'll see a fuse in there. I would gaurantee it's blown. Will take you all of 20 minutes to check.