65Z01

I had replaced hoses, calipers, rotors & pads earlier today and while trying to bed the brakes this evening the brake pedal went low. So I limped home with questionable front brakes.

Upon inspection I found the resevoir was low and brake fluid inside both front wheels, but none on the rotors or pads...yet.

In daylight tomorrow I'll pull the wheels and do a close inspection to determine the leak point(s) but, have an idea of where the leaks must be.

I suspect that the leaks may be where the bolts go through the hose fittings into the calipers. I torqued both to the GM spec of 30 lb-ft but am not sure if that was tight enough.

Also, the old hoses had no washers on either side of the fitting but the new calipers came with a pair of copper washers and the GM Shop Manual shows their usage so I used them.

So I'm wondering if I should have used the washers or just put the hose fitting against the caliper??? Also I'm a little reluctant to tighten the bolts more as they go into Al calipers.

Any feedback from those who have done caliper replacement?

BAM92

Check to make sure that you didn't double stack the new copper washers on top of old aluminum washers that were stuck on that maybe you didn't notice as you said the hose didn't come with any washers. Just remember, bolt then washer, then brake hose end, then washer, then caliper. Hope that made sense.

65Z01

The calipers are new so no washers stuck there but maybe the bolt heads, but I really don't think so as I noticed the washer at the one bolt head.

Since the old brakes didn't use washers I think I'll try without them...frustrating.

VQT88Vette

No, you need to use those copper washers and yes do not go over the torque range (are you sure it 30 ft lb or is it 30 in lb). Double check on the double washers like the previous post. Also, you said the fluid are on both the inside of the front wheels telling us that you may not install it correctly. Just check everything again

vsocks

I bought new calipers and just noticed that there was a copper washer stuck in the indented area where the brake hose bolt goes. I agree that you should use a copper washer between bolt head and brake hose metal fitting, and another between metal fitting and caliper. Basically on both sides of the brake hose fitting that the bolt goes through. Also, did you install speed bleeders? Someone a few weeks ago had leaking brakes from those.
Be sure and report back what fixes it!

65Z01

Well I went to my local AC Delco parts house this AM with the intent of getting more brake fluid and some heli-coils, just in case.

After discussing the problem with them they ordered in a new set of built up brake calipers and two bolts that hold the hose to the caliper.

I'm sure I used one and only one copper washer on either side of the brake hose end fitting as both the fitting and the caliper are new units. Only one of the old bolts had a washer stuck to the bolt head and there is a washer stuck to the end fitting of one of the old hoses.

I was thinking of picking up some speed bleeders today but now will pass on that idea. I'll stick with the two 2x4s and do it the hard way.

This sort of "fun" is the reason I didn't mess with the calipers two years ago when I did front rotors & pads. Which I now feel was a judgement error as replacing the calipers then would likely have given me another 2-3yrs on the pads & rotors.

It's started raining today but I'll pick up the new h/w in the morning, so we'll see where this leads tomorrow.

SLOWRIDE

ittlfly

I agree with the post about over torquing the banjo bolts. That is a "for sure" leak.....triple check the torque specs for your set up. It goes without saying that all parts need to be squeeky clean when assembling brake parts.....

65Z01

Though I can't yet pull the wheels to see for sure where it's leaking, I too think it may have been too much torque on the banjo bolts.

Though the GM Shop Manual specs 40 N-m (30 lbs-ft), I think I'll just "snug them up" till it stops leaking when I get the new calipers instead of relying on the torque wrench.

Mr Mojo

When I put my new hoses on, I just tightened the banjo bolts by hand till they were tight. No leaks so far.

richdwyer

I have a 1989 and my factory manual calls for 30 lbs. ft also. May want to have someone push the pedal while you watch. Make sure where the fluid is coming from. Make sure the bleeders are tight, that they didn't leave them loose when they packed them. It is also very easy to accidentally double stack washers on one side of hose instead of one on each side, or get some grit in between one of the seats. Another possibility is the piston seals on the calipers may not have4 been installed right. I have gotten bad components before (although the likely hood of getting two is slim.). Good luck Rich

65Z01

Ok, so I got another set of calipers from the parts store and installed them and sure enough the banjo bolt hole in the right caliper had stripped completely.

The banjo bolts did not hand thread into the 1st set of new calipers but did into the 2nd set...the first set must have been threaded for another size bolt.

Anyway, got the calipers swapped out and started to bleed the fronts when suddenly the brake light came on and the pedal won't pump up.

I'm wondering if the proportioning valve in the master is stuck???

vsocks

So what did you finally do, use copper washers and torque to 30 ft. lbs? Did you reuse the copper washers from yesterday or buy new ones?

65Z01

I got another set of built up calipers that came with new copper washers.

I used one washer on either side of the brake hose fitment (one at the bolt head and one against the caliper).

If feels like the master cylinder is simply not activating the front brakes. I took her around the parking lot and rears seem to be working ok.

But now I cannot even pump up the fronts and now fluid will come out when I remove a bleeder and pump the pedal???

I've started another thread on this newest *($#(&*$#($# problem.