lcvette

i am getting ready to order the gm performance parts hotcam kit, i need to get my finances in order and figure exactly how much this job is going to cost me. i have $1000 to work with for the job this includes for all parts necessary, the heads have been arranged to be ported and polished along with the intake manifold on a work trade basis (no cash outlay) and the same for my new 4.10 gears, see my list of mods in signature below. i will most likely have ed wright do the programming after seeing all the great reviews of his work on the forum. if anyone has done this mod and knows first hand what will be needed it would be a great help so ican have all the parts needed to make the swap. i plan on doing the work myself, my father is going to do a cam change as well and has a shope with all tools except a lift, but plenty of 6 ton floor jacks if the car must be elevated. i really appreciate all the great experience everyone has had to offer in the past and would like to thank all of you. i look forward to your assistance on this job, thanks a million everyone!

chris

lcvette

ttt

lcvette

NO ONE KNOWS? TTT

COME ON GUYS SOPME ONE OUT THERE HAS DONE THIS JOB HAVEN'T THEY? I FIND IT HARD TO BELIEVE IM GOING TO BE THE PIONEER CAM SWAP FORUM MEMBER

IF IT TOO MUCH TO TYPE, I OUWLD BE HAPPY TO TAKE NOTES OVER THE PHONE! I JUST AM SCARED I WILL FORGET TO ORDER SOMETHING FOR THE JOB AND THAT WILL DELAY MY DAILY DRIVER FOR LONGER THEN I WANT.

THANKS GUYS CHIRS

Nathan Plemons

I think I spent around $1200 on all my mods this summer, that also included an electric water pump while I was at it, so that's $200 right there. Let me break it down as best I can.

msd coil $40
msd wires $78
hardened pushrods $36
hardened guideplates $24
crane gold RR's $250
double valve springs $100
cc pro magnum lifters $200
NGK TR55's $16
Hypertech 160 stat $20
LT4 Hot cam $180
Custom Prom from ed wright $350

Hmm, that comes to 1294 sans water pump. Maybe I spent more than I thought Anyway, you could get away without the new lifters, that should kick it down to doable range.

Hope it helps.

BrianCunningham

You need to pull the radiator out and swing the AC out of the way w/o rupturing the lines!

Careful when you reinstall the intake manifold, the sealer has to sit & cure otherwise you'll get the dreaded leaking.

If you want to replace your wires, now's the time to do it. Same for the water pump.

You'll also need to jack the motor up so the cam will clear frame.

Pulling the balancer off is the hardest part.

Do a search, there's plenty of posts.

Good Luck

Chris@SD

I don't typically sell the hot cam kit but have sold one a while back. The only thing I cannot remember is if it has the gaskets! That is the only thing you might need to purchase on top of the kit.
Brian pretty much nailed the install.
Plugs and wires are a great idea while you are at it.
Let us know if you run into any troubles and we will see if we can help.
Good Luck,

lcvette

theres the forum members i know and love! chris, already got your taylor wires they arrived extremely fast! excellent service and customer service, the other chris actually was who i spoke with,m we have the same birthday so we were both at the track enjoying out time off the best way we know how. anyways, the wires went on, a pain staking job for the 1st timer but dad is going to be caling or emailing to order his very soon, and his will go on during his cam swap. im getting smarter! laughing
ok, radiator no problem have already removed mine and cleaned it out 2 months ago, so i know the steps for that as well as carefully moving the condensor. now raising the motor is this best done ith a hoistor a jack, please don't laugh, im just new to this task. as far as parts go, the cam kit should pretty much have all hardware necassary, i will be swapping the timing chain at this juncture as well and would like any suggestions, i was going to go ahead and replace with the oem chain unless the consensus recommended against it for valid reasons, ie, new cam needs stronger chain or theres a diret replacement that frees power etc.. will the LT4 timing chain work without replacemnt of the gears? if so i will use this part.
gaskets, i need a list, i suppose the fellows from pace will know what i will need in this category, i will tell them exactly what im doing. since the heads are coming off, i did want to ask all of you if their was a better head gasket that may help performance/raise compression which with the new ed wright programing might be usable to make more power?
other small parts going on to be progammed for unless advised against, mass air flow houseing, and 52 mm TB, unless you think i don't need it with these mods, keep inmind the heads will be ported and polished asw ell as the intake, and the mods listed in my sig. ok guys thanks again, i love this forum, so much wise information!

chris

Nathan Plemons

We used a hoist, which can be done after the intake has been removed. Of course you have to take the drivetrain loose. We dropped the tranny, although it wouldn't necessarily be required. Oh, BTW, before you can do that you have to drop the exhaust. It just gets so fun!!!

Goody

I believe the LT4 head gaskets are a bit thinner to raise the compression a little bit which will add some horsepower to your swap out. If not the LT4 gaskets, then TPIS sells some thinner gaskets which are good for half a point increase.
Don't forget fresh antifreeze(dexcool), a bottle of assembly lube, anti-sieze for plugs, die-electric grease for plug wires, LT4 knock module may be required to fight false knock (verify with scanner), fresh oil filter and extra oil for post break-in change, Head change gasket set, High temp RTV for intake seals(let cure 24hrs), timing cover seals and lots and lots of patience. Good luck

Nathan Plemons

True, true, but the oil change might not be manditory. It's a good idea, but a hydraulic roller cam isn't gonna cause too many shavings to be floating around. You would change it to get rid of your pre-lube more than anything else.

lcvette

alright, lookin good so far, i am getting ready to order the parts. on my mid morning break. i will ask about the head gaskets, and if they don't do anything, i will call up tpis. i also would like to thanks ya'll for the rest of the gasket reminders! anyone else who is familiar with this swap who knows if the other topics on the timing chains and maf housing and 52mm are good ideas to do or if they will yield minimal gains for the money. any help appreciated! thanks again guys!

chris

Jeff M

Chris,

I recently went with this cam for the 383 project in my 92. Only suggestions I can make is put new lifters in and go with the LT4 Heavy duty chain. I ordered the chain from Jeff(18carfan) and am pleased with the quality. Geoff Jeal is doing my engine and he talked me into new lifters, new aftermarket not factory. I'm sure others will have different opinions but he says he's had trouble with factory lifters "pumping up" during sustained high RPM's and holding the valve off the seat. Depending on the type of driving you do you might never run into this, but then again you have everything apart, make sure you do it right and only have to take it apart once. Geoff recommends Crane lifters, they are available from Summit for I believe around $160. Hope this helps,

lcvette

thanks guys really appreciate all the input!
the LT4 knock module was mentioned, is this a hard task, im unfamiliar with it, i do understand it is not the sensor but a different component. does any one know where i can obtain one of these and a rough estimate of the cost?

thanks again for all you help guys!

chris

billyhay

Lt4 knock module part number 16214681. Dealer list price $51.00. I have a friend at the dealer and paid $28.05.

It installs in the ecm, which is just above the battery. 5 minute job.

lcvette

ok guys heres what i have so far:

-hot cam kit (cam, rockers, springs, shims, caps, and keys)--$518

-lt4 knock module $51

-timing chain (which one fellas?)
replacement roller-$29
lt4 roller-$40
extreme duty kit-$216
I'm inclined to replace with an oem chain unless otherwise advised.

-lifters from summit-$160

-pushrods any suggestions?

-ed wright reprogram-$350

-gasket set for top end replacement-$???

what am i leaving out guys?

let me know im ready to start ordering this stuff so i can go faster, lol

chris

h rocks

Icvette, the thinner head gasket that LPE and TPIS sells is a Victor Reinz 5746. (Dana) It can be gotten at NAPA or Carquest for about $46/Pr. It is .029 new and ~.026" - .027" compressed. This is allegedly good for a 1.2 point of compression. Better check on it's compatability on an LT motor.

I have the Crane lifters that you speak of. Your engine builder is renowned, but may not know that Crane does not manufacture those particular roller lifters. I believe that they are the same as a factory OEM.

DO change your oil. It's totally possible that you got a little anti freeze and water in you motor. This is not good a good
lubricant (