joseph p

My '89 l98 coupe cut out and stopped on me twice this week without warnig, while driving normally. Thought I might need a new filter, bought one and planned to install it this weekend. Today again it cutout, but this time it couldn't be started. Checked the pressure/shrader valve..it had fuel. Tried to spray a little starter fluid in throttle body in case there wasn't enough fuel...no good. Took a plug off, no spark. Decided it might be the ignition module...replaced it, and it started right up. Drove 10 miles, it rode fine, parked for two hours, started car, went a half mile and it cutout again and wouldn't start. It was pouring rain when I towed it home so I haven't looked at anything yet, but could it be I got a BAD MODULE????
Got it at AUTOZONE and they were quick to point out that it has a "LIFETIME GUARANTEE." Anybody else have this problem? Anything else I should've replaced while I replaced it?
Is this unique or normal? Thanks for any help.

65Z01

What is the condition inside the dist cap?

I suppose the module could be bad.

Did you check for spark at more than one wire?

Are you getting any codes?

flyersfan1088

When a module goes, it goes. It's not intermittant

joseph p

I am not getting any codes. I only checked the spark at one wire.Condition of cap was fine. Cap, rotor, wires and coil are only about 15 months old.
Re:
"When a module goes, it goes. It's not intermittant "...so you're saying my earlier cutouts were not related to the module? I had another car with a bad module and it acted with the same intermittent cutouts...after replacing module, problem was solved.??

Just realized that I had forgotten to put the grease on the back of the module, would that cause such a quick reaction and kill the module?
Thanks for responding.

scorp508

I disagree. When they start acting up they can be very very funny. The car will run perfect, then die and not restart. Wait a few minutes it'll run fine again then die. It seems like sometimes they need to just cool down as if the heat has started affecting them.

When/if you do replace it DO NOT forget to appy a thin layer of grease to the metal contact plate to displace heat properly.

joseph p

OK, I guess our posts crossed in time. Are you saying that yesterday when I replaced it and didn't put the grease on...that could have ruined it... in the ten mile drive? Now I should replace it again?

scorp508

:yesnod:

jfb

I've seen modules that quit when the engine got to full temperature but would work after cool down. When the engine won't start, that is the time to start looking for the no spark problem. The spark module gets pulses from the pickup coil inside the distributor which then pulses the primary of the spark coil. The coil output goes through the distributor to an individual spark plug wire. The distributor cap must not be carbon tracked and the rotor and the distributor button must be in good condition. Also check the well under the center of the rotor conductor and see if it has a spark track which will cause the spark to jump there instead of going through the distributor cap and the spark plug wire. Take the module to where you bought it after asking if they can test it.

JAKE

Yes, they can cut out suddenly, then, after allowing it to cool, the car will start and run fine for a while only to later cut out again.

I had an aftermarket DYNOMAX module do that to me a couple of years ago.

I also remember several years ago I mistakenly used computer CPU heat sink grease on the car's module and that caused the module to die too. The CPU stuff works exactly opposite, it helps draw heat from the processor into the heat sink rather than acting as a barrier to heat. So what I'd done was actually cause heat to be drawn from the distributor housing INTO the module.

Color me DUMB! (or at best, inattentive).

Jake

Vetterin

The Ford Tempo was a car that was notorious for having this problem! (Like that's the ONLY problem with Fords). :lolg:

joseph p

No Good!
Returned module, put exchanged one in (grease with the thermal grease that came with it), put everything back in order, checked condition again of cap, rotor etc.(they look fine), turn key...car won't start.
While connecting the module I noticed the "plug" on the rearward(cloest to firewall) end, was dry, brittle and cracked, it seemed to make the connection fine but wasn't very confidence inspiring. Could this be at the root of my problem? Has anyone had such a problem?
Thanks

joseph p

Anyone? Any thoughts? Could it not be the module OR it's connection and just've been an intermittent problem with the coil? Even though the coil is fairly new? How do I test the coil? Thanks

joseph p

Is this plug/connector (that the two prong end of the ig. mod. connects into) the pickup coil? If not, what is it, it looks like it has some sort of transistor attached to it. Can I buy a new one and is it as easy to replace as it looks?

Bruthish

I had similar problem although it never really "died". I changed all the ignition parts thinking that was the problem but it was not. It ended up being the fuel pump. Although you have fuel at the schrader valve does not mean that it is getting fuel pressure. Listen for it to come on when trying to start it and put a pressure gauge on the valve to see if it is getting any.

Nathan Plemons

I had a module go south on mine and it was, although it got progressively worse.

I started it up just fine one day, car ran for about 5 minutes then died, wouldn't fire back for anything. Later that day it started just fine, ran for a few minutes and quit. It got to the point where when it did fire it ran really rough, then it got to where it would barely fire at all.

After pulling my hair out messing with everything else I finally got smart and looked for SES codes. The car wouldn't run long enough to display a code, but that didn't mean that it hadn't stored one. Sure enough the code it gave me pointed the the control module. I got another one from a friend and the car's been running great ever since. :cheers:

TimBVette

Let's go back to some basic troubleshooting. Do you have spark at the plugs? If not then it's a ignition problem. You replaced the module and no go. Do you have voltage to the distributor? Yes/no.

Have spark? Then look at fuel delivery. Do you have fuel pressure?? Hook up a fuel pressure guage to check. Don't rely on just pushing the valve.

Have fuel and spark?? Look at plug catalytic Converters.

Had one come in the other day. Wouldn't start but had spark and fuel and engine seemed to have compression.. Customer replaced module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and fuel pump before he towed it in. We burned two holes before the Cats and wolla.. Three cats later he was back on the road. All three were plugged solid.

Point,,,follow basic trouble shooting techniques before blindly changing componets you suspect.

joseph p

Good advice TimBVette, I'm "regrouping" my attack today. I will test fuel pressure first, my earlier test of just fuel at the valve was because I was on the road and had no tools, when new module solved problem I didn't go any further in fuel dept. I suppose the fact that the car is out in street in front of my house has caused me to jump to conclusions in an effort to get it back in my yard. Thanks!

JAKE

I absolutely, totally and whole-heartedly agree!

I remember going through much the same thing with George West a few months back. We all thought it was ignition related and it turned out to be fuel.

Jake

joseph p

Welp, optimism is waning....fuel pressure 41+- ....No spark. Next suspects...coil? I have a spare. Pickup coil???
Incidently: the car has no converter, just the shell for appearences.

dlmeyers

Hey, speculation, no problem.

After reading the posts, I'd be tacking toward the coil. Remove coil and check. Believe the Factory Service Manual will list steps. Believe it or not, page 5-9 and 5-10 of the Haynes actually shows a pretty good test procedure. Go figure.

At any rate, sounds like you need to track down the voltage readings to the primary side of the coil, check the continuity for both terminals on the cap/coil.

With no spark and two modules, I'd target the coil and do some troubleshooting.

Also, check all contacts in the cap.

Let us know.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speeds shocks