Spinman

Just broke the car out of winter storage, and discovered that the horn is not working. '90 coupe

Checked the fuse panel in the owners manual and discovered that the fuse is in the aux block under the passenger kick panel.

It appears that this fuse controls both the horn and the theft system.

Anything I should check b4 dropping the panel? I thought I might arm the system and then trip it - to see if the horn will work and if the dash panel lights indicate security system status? Anything else worth an easy test 1st?

ABNVET.I

yep thats what I would do to check it. I have had 2 90s and when my horns didnt work it was the connector in the steering whell that broke. Cheap plasic ears on these things. But that fuse is a good start just a paing pulling the panel for it.

:cheers:

Wildride

This is a recurrent problem. I wrote up a lengthy analysis some time ago onsome of the solutions. The broken "ears" on the bayonet electrical connector is common.

Check this out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=486922

Spinman

WildRide - Thanks for the link

Just checked the system via the alarm - the horms fired off when I tripped the system. So that eliminates the fuse and the horns themselves.

How would I go about checking to see if the problem is button related or connector related? Both buttons are not working, so would that tend to lead me to the connector (or is that a bad assumption)?

I never use the horn, just tested it by happenstance. So I doubt it is from wear vs. deteroration.

Alohawg

This one of my issues now as well, however the cause of my horn not working is different I believe. I just followed the procedure for testing the alarm, all went as decribed in the owner's manual except for the horn sounding. Car cranked right up after reaching thru the window, opening the door & putting the key in the ignition & turning. I checked the horn/ theft fuse, it's fine...when I push the horn buttons on the steering wheel I can hear a clicking sound coming from the horn relay, also tested the power source at the horn, no juice. It's the relay right? If not, then what else? Help please


[Modified by Alohawg, 8:50 PM 3/28/2004]

ir0nmaiden420

on my 86, the horn relay is behind the info center above the stereo, If you push the horn button and hear a clicking sound, your relay is ok. Check that the horns are still connected, they are on each side of the car under the headlights.
That was my problem, however since the alarm system always makes the horn go off. i disconnected them again.
hehe
:)

RUSS105

Try replacing the contact plate.

Wildride

Spinman: Follow the instructions for removing the airbag. That will expose the buttons and the pigtail wire/bayonet connector. Actually, it is a very simple job that probably takes longer to describe than to accomplish!

The instructions in the post are applicable ONLY to 1990 or later. Earlier C-4's had a different steeering wheel and horn button assembly.


[Modified by Wildride, 6:42 PM 3/28/2004]

tempest

Both buttons lead to the bayonet connector before mating with the conductor plate behind the airbag module (the round blue thing - forgot the actual name of the part) in the steering column, behind the wheel. Once you get the airbag out you can see the leads from the buttons. I think you will have to pull the steering wheel to get at the bayonet connector.

Anyway, I think it will be best if you check the switch and the bayonet connector as Wildride suggested. I just did this myself last week when I found my horns stopped working when the wheel was "straight" but would work fine if turned it greater than a 1/4 turn. It turned out the connector was not making solid contact to the plate.

Yes, it is a pain to disable the airbag, but you definitely don't want that thing going off. Be careful when you remove it and put it down somewhere. I treat mine like a bottle of nitro when I carry it anywhere.

When I was about to put everything back together, I broke the slot in the airbag module which mates with the bayonet connector "ear". So as a variation of Wildride's "bolt" method of holding the bayonet connector in the socket, I wrapped my the connector using electrical tape until it became barely bigger than the socket. I then shoved the connector into the socket, making sure the plastic ears (pins?) were oriented correctly. This may not be as reliable as the bolt method, but so far, so good.

[Edit: Sorry! Some inaccurate information! See below!]


[Modified by tempest, 12:06 AM 3/29/2004]

tempest

whoops. I have to correct myself. I just checked some old pics, and first, the airbag module behind the wheel is yellow in the center - but it had a blue warning label.

Second, you can get at the horn bayonet connector without removing the wheel.

Here are some pictures of what to expect:

Airbag out of car. You can see the yellow wire with the red piece of plastic attached to it is the horn wire.


Wheel out of car - horn switches and wires still attached.


Closeup of horn connector.


Sorry for my errors in my previous post.

Wildride

Tempest: Great Pics! Just shows that the camera is mightier than a keyboard.

My 90 is still in winter storage, but I hope to get it out in a week or so. Maybe then I will pull the airbag and take a pic of the plastic hold down that I fabricated.

so many projects and so little time!

Spinman

Out of curosity:

1) I was working under the dash last fall to remove my HVAC programmer. Is there a connector or lead that I might have disconnected in error that is the reason why my horns don't work? I still have the hush panel off and can take a look around...

2) Is there a lead or connector under the dash leading from the steering column that I could jumper to activate the horns? This way, I could confirm that the problem is indeed inside the wheel and that I need to remove the airbag, etc. as previously described.

Just a thought -