HeeHaw89

I'm getting ready to check my plugs due to a miss and figured I'll change them while I'm pulling them out. I have noticed several people suggesting Rapidfire #5 for the L98. Just wondering what they cost compared to my Autolites and if it is worth it.

Red Tornado

Brett, I got my Rapidfire #5's from Autozone, cost $31.92. Your stud car deserves them :D

shotchkiss

I have them in mine and they are working fine so far, they spark and the car runs, no night and day difference, but no worse then the Bosch ones I had before. I think mine were around $4 a piece also. If you get them, make sure to gap them, the older ones had a preset gap to them, I don't think the newer one do.

scorp508

You can get those or some NGKs for like $1.30 each. :D

HeeHaw89

What model NGK?
What is a good gap?

drvette85

What do you mean gap them??? They are supposedly gapped at the factory for your application and the box specifically says ... 'DO NOT RE-GAP."

drvette85

:iagree:

vinnies87

run rapidfires 5 in my 87 and not an issue....great plug

1990CORVETTE

Run Rapid Fires, they are great,,, I got my for $35 at pep boys :crazy:

shotchkiss

Regarding Rapidfires, yours probably were pregapped, but the ones I bought last year all say "Set gap per vehicle specification" on the back of them, that's why I'd thought they been changed. Of course you should follow whatever instruction are given, but I'd check them anyway just to be safe. The ones I had were the Rapidfire #5 ones, pn 25164643.

drvette85

Thanks for the reply. I know the specs for my '85 says spark plug gap should be .035 but the Rapidfires require a gap of .045. I think I was told that this was because they are a hotter plug. Almost time for new plugs so I will check that next time. But ... I cannot see any point in spending that kind of money on Rapidfires when I change my plugs every year. Didn't notice any better performance for the money. JMHO.



:seeya


[Modified by drvette85, 7:29 PM 2/21/2004]

Lone Ranger

The only thing about my rapidfire's I don't like is how hard it is to get a plug boot off them. That thicker ceramic insulator makes the boot want to hang on for dear life, even if di-electric was used. Trick is to wrm the plugs up by running the engine. But then you have to let it cool down before putting new plugs in. No problem. Remove the boots the night before, change out the plugs in the morning :cheers:

TA

Regardless of what it says on the box, I know I'd be checking the gap on mine. I mean how long does it take...about 5 seconds. All it takes is one maroon to drop a box and knock the plug out of its intended gap. :crazy:

subman

I tried Champion Dual Plat's - for a month & 1/2. Just didn't feel right. On a trip to Laughlin, got 24.3 MPG. Pulled them last week and the plat points were gone. Replaced them with old #5 that I cut down. Instant SOP improvement. Took the car to state line and got 27 MPG. Bought new #5 today at Autozone for 4.09 each. They're goin in tomorow.

drvette85

Oh I do check the gapping definitely but I leave them at .045.

My question is now ... If the box says do not re gap and to leave at .045 ... how many of you ignore that and re gap to the factory specs of .035???

:seeya