badddrx7

I am looking for a how-to install on shorty headers for my 1996 coupe. anyone know of one ?

thanks, Tom

richy rich

For what it's worth.I installed Hooker shorties on my 94 6 months a go.It was awfull,they didn't fit worth beans,it took me & my mechanic friend a good 6-8 hours.When we finally got them they leaked bad.Then when we got them to stop leaking the car had no more power than before.[I have a mild cam & misc. bolt ons]Ask anyone on this board-shory headers won't give you any more power than manifolds.Good luck

badddrx7

Wow :eek: that sucks....so stay away from the hookers - right? I am after looks over performance anyway, so power gains does not matter.

Does anyone have experience with the JC whitney " Armor #42 ceramic coated shorty header kit for the C4 ??? They are rather cheap in price. I need a set that look good, stays shiney and fit perfect the first time.

anyone ??


Tom

jcook00

I installed hooker shorties on my 96 vert. I pretty much followed this: http://www.grandsportregistry.com/_old/headers.html
except for some of the following --
I removed both stock units from the top and installed both headers from the top.
I purchased hex head 10mm bolts from sears hardware to use with the headers.
I used the factory bolts for the accessories but needed some spacers.
I purchased felpro aluminum gasketsfrom o'reily instead of what came with the shorties.
I pre-soaked all bolts and screws to be removed with penetrating oil the day before.
I had no problems with rust or difficult to remove bolts.
I did NOT remove the alternator, ac, ps pump, air pump, or throttle body cable.
I removed the collector studs from the factory manifolds and re-used them on the headers.
I initially had collector leaks. Just had to torque a little more.
I never torqued the pass side firewall header bolt (it still hasn't leaked).
I purchased a tubing cutter from sears hardware to cut a section from the pass side egr tube.
I did that on the car but eventually had to take it off so that my local meineke could weld it back for me for 10 bucks. The check engine light came on when I just had a close fit sleeve from home depot on it.
You will have to remove all plugs and wire looms and oil dip stick for easy clearance.
I believe my valve covers where off too.

badddrx7

Thanks a lot for the info....the link you supplied is no longer active. Do you have a copy of that link that you can pass along to me. E-mail - blueyes@zoomnet.net


Thanks, Tom

BAM92

:iagree: with some of this. I have done shorties twice and LT's once. I had to unbolt ASR and move it out of way. I also remove wheel well on drivers side also. I had to grind the bolts for the alternator and ac brackets to fit. Also had to grind dipstick tube bracket also. Very easy to do. I did not have to take off valve covers, ac, or alt. Everything went in and out through top. Had to go under car to unbolt cats. Air tube on passenger side can be tough to work with. Some resection theirs and some just onbolt bracket from head and bend it to where it needs to go. As things go it is not to bad of a job just beware when buying used ones as there is a good chance of them being warped and making it real hard to install and be leak free. Hookers and SLP have the best in 1 3/4 size. 1 5/8 not worth the time. Just my opinion.

jcook00

you have mail

95BLKVette

I've had the Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Shorties on for over two years now and they work just fine.

steve40th

! have the SLP Headers shorty em1sson legal and they bolted 1n w1thout mods. All you need 1s 1nstall 1t from SLP. Too a couple hours.

NASCAR314

This is what I used, it's for JBA shorty headers:

http://www.jbaheaders.com/installsheets/html/1815.pdf

It's a good set of instructions, some modifications may need to be made on some cars, grinding here, bending there, ect..., The JBA's I installed are leak free and work great! Chrome / nickel finish looks good also.