Tourney3p0

And it actually worked. Took about 3 hours total, but I could probably do it in 2 now that I know exactly what's going on in there.

I think his is an 88, as is mine.. maybe that has something to do with it, but I didn't run into any problems.

Just wanted to confirm that it can be done.

jackdaroofer

:cheers: How about a post in tech tips?

Someday we will all need this info

Thanks

:seeya

:steering:

montie98

Thanks for the post, I was going to send this out to a vette shop hear in CT after I wimped out on doing it myself.They are charging$400 core included to do the job wich I thought was very fair considering they insist that the long way is the only right way to do it.But after reading your post I think I will ginve it a shot. Can you ofer any helpful tips. I read somewhere in an old post about Gordon Killebrew(famed Corvette factory C4 guru that claims to be able to do this job in 1/2 hour) saying to saw some peice off or something?Did you encounter anything like this?

Mark-44

Congratulations :party:

You beat my time by about two weeks.

CFI-EFI

Me too, Mark. Hell, I spent more than 3 hours cursin' and cryin' about bolts I couldn't find and when I did, that I couldn't get a wrench on.

I've read all the posts. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the "Fastguy method" only unique in the removal of the seat? What I DO know, is if I have to do this again, I'll either trade the car or use the "jburnett method".

Congrats, Tourney3p0!

RACE ON!!!

scorp508

Considering most of the how-to's have you dismantling the entire freaking dash up to the firewall I'd say no. :)

CFI-EFI

Scorp,
I followed the instructions in my Helms. I'm betting the only thing *I* removed that Fastguy didn't, was the dash pad.

RACE ON!!!

LD85

I gotta say, I took off more parts than I had to and the total time could have been 3 to 3.5 hours, I got it apart and removed in less than 2 hours easily.

I did need at least 2-3 long 1/4" ratchet extensions and maybe a swivel joint to get the top bolts out though.

Tourney3p0

Alright guys, here's how I did it.

After removing the seat, I dropped the panel to expose the ECM. I dropped the ECM, but left the ECM brace where it was. There's a small vertical AC duct that meets up with the hush panel, I pulled that down. There's a horizontal AC duct that goes right in front of the heater core housing. I removed all the screws I could reach for that then just moved it out of the way. It wasn't necessary to remove it, which was fortunate because it kept going behind the center of the dash and I don't know where it ended.

Next there's a cable that comes through and mounts onto the heater core housing. Remove three screws and it comes lose, but it also attaches itself to a rod that goes into the heater core housing itself. It's attached by a white plastic piece that goes through the metal. I spent a few minutes trying to remove the plastic piece, but it turned out I just had to pull the rod right out.

After that's out of the way (in my case, dangling behind my head) you can access the big support rod bolts. There is one bolt per end, both 13 mm. On the top one I couldn't get an extension in there so I just used a 3/8ths and 13mm. It was torqued down pretty good so my knuckles took some abuse when it broke lose. The bottom bolt was uneventful, and the rod came out. At this point all I had left was the heater core housing itself.

There are a couple of exposed bolts that go into the firewall side of the heater core housing and bolt it to the firewall. I took as many of these out as I could, but found that it wasn't necessary and I had wasted time doing so. They were 10mm's, and all I really needed to remove were the 7mm's.

Remove all of them that you can see. There will only be two slightly difficult ones.. both at the top. One you can see if you bend your neck right, and one you can't see at all, period. I suggest you leave these for last. Take out the one you can slightly see first. Then pull apart the housing the best you can without breaking it (since it's still held together by one bolt at top). You can see where the tension is. Aim a socket with an extension and a 7mm at that spot and eventually you'll get it. It won't be fun, though.

At that point the housing will come apart and the heater core can come out. Installation was the reverse of removal, except one minor mistake I made.. the rod that comes out and attaches to the cable can pivot and become stuck behind the housing during installation. Make sure that rod is sticking out before you bolt everything back in.

I figure that since the housing doesn't have to be air tight (as evidenced by the big hole where the rod sticks out, and where the inlet and the outlet stick out), one could *probably* leave the invisible top bolt out. I personally didn't but it was tempting. I put it in last and there was absolutely no slack at top.

I used a 3/8ths, a 1/2, 7, 10, and 13mm's for each one, a deep socket for the seat, a blanket to lay on so the seat bolts didn't rip into me, and a good flashlight is vital. Mine had the head that I could point where I wanted. Make sure you put all your tools to where you'll always know where they are just by feeling around. It's alot easier than climbing in and out of the hole under the dash. A magnetic wand couldn't hurt either.

I did this all from memory, so if I left anything out you'll just have to forgive me. I know that if I did leave it out, it's minor.

vinnies87

Tourney: Where did you find the "fast guy heater core removal".. ?
thanks

Tourney3p0

All I knew of the fastguy method was that the dash didn't have to come out, and a support rod was in the way and would have to be removed. Everything else was straightforward except the two bolts at the top.

Rob 93ZR-1

I've talked to a couple guys about the Fastguy method and we figure it works on all teh C4's until you get to the new dash configuration w/ the glove box. :thumbs:

Ras119

Okay, what's this whole thing about the "rod"? Is this on the manual a/c? I have a '90 with electric and don't recall this rod sticking out of the core box, and if it is there...where exactly does it belong?

Tourney3p0

Oops, sorry about that.

My air conditioning is the kind with the two ***** you slide back and forth. I hadn't even considered other situations.

I'm not sure how that would change the procedure, but if you have the electric AC and you know of any precautions to take that I didn't consider, please post them.