myscx

Its leaking on the passenger side a little in the front and rear,really leaking bad on drivers side. What do I need to replace for gaskets and what else should be replaced while its all apart? :cry

Mez

Have you tried to tighten the bolts first? Many times this will solve it. The spec is 35 ft/lbs I think.

MrRenoman

If you're going to replace the intake gaskets, I'm pretty sure Felpro makes the complete kit and you can get it at Summit or any reputable parts store. I didn't find the part number in the Summit catalog but there is one. Some guys don't like the Felpros but I've used them with success. If you need the part number I can dig it out, it inlcudes the complete intake gasket set for the runners, throttle body, water inlet and, I think some o-rings if you have a cold start valve, and the intake gaskets. Depending on mileage, you might think about changing out the EGR valve since you've got to remove the plenum to get to it. This is a good time to get the whole intake and plenum professionally hot-tanked to clean it and maybe powder coated so it stays cleaner longer, do the valve covers too. Also a good time to clean or re-build the throttle body, flush the coolant, change plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, maybe a new module, install a low temp thermostat, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, many of these items are subject to debate but if you're thinking about it now is the time to do it. Drop me an e-mail if you need the gasket info.


[Modified by MrRenoman, 9:59 AM 8/20/2003]

myscx

ttt

ToniH

Hi,

I just did this to my Vette on saturday.

I used GM gaskets I bought from Jeff Kop at Superior Chevy. The gaskets were about $30.

Sorry, I don't have the part numbers handy but you need:
1. GM intake gasket kit (intake, runners, TB and distributor gaskets)
2. thermostate housing gasket
2b. EGR pipe gasket 2pcs
3. fuel line O-rings (book says 2 different sizes but my '91 uses only the bigger ones)

Other stuff needed:
4. Locktite black silicone sealant for intake front/back sealing (or equivalent)
4b. something to clean old sealant off the surfaces
5. Locktite Permatex 2 or similar to seal intake bolts
5b. wire brushes or something to clean the bolts
6. lots of rags to plug all holes in you motor (trust me I know) ;)
7. a container to drain your coolant to and new coolant
8. zip-lock bags to store bolts so you know where they go when reinstalling
9. something to plug your fuel lines as they like to bleed for ever

Then you might need new injector O-rings if your old ones are bad. While you are in there also check coolant hoses if they are old. If your injectors are dirty/leaking now is good time to get them cleaned.

Special tools you need are T40 and T45 torx bits for runner and intake bolts and a 14mm spanner for the distributor bolt. Also torque wrench is needed when putting it back together (the torques needed are quite low so a small wrench is ok).

The job takes about 6h if everything goes ok (competent shop or 2 not so competent weekend repairguys) ;)

Have fun! ;)

ToniH


[Modified by ToniH, 12:13 PM 9/1/2003]

6spd89

Do what Toni said, just check out everything. The fuel rail has a rebuild kit i also purchased thru Superrior Chevy. It gives you all the o -rings needed to completely tear it down in many pcs. I cleaned and polished my rail before i put it all back together.Make sure to use BLACK RTV on the intake ends,throw away the gaskets,their junk. Intake gaskets should have hold right on the heads then place RTV on the ends w/ about a 1/4" bead and up the gasket a1/2" or so. Make sure it is PERFECTLY CLEAN!! Some folks redo their intake to have it leak again in a few weeks. Just be sure to really clean the end rails. Not trying to sound redundant,but who wants to do it twice??
Does that help any???'
Take your time ,its fun!!!!!
Matt

Goody

One key not mentioned is to let the intake set up after it's bolted together for 24hrs. This allows the sealant to set up completely. Clean the end rails until they sparkle so that the sealant will stick really well. Clean intake as well. Brake cleaner is good for removing oil from the intake mating areas. DO NOT overtorque the manifold bolts and DO use the correct torque sequence from the books.

ToniH

Here are the GM part numbers for some of the gaskets I mentioned:
the intake and runner gaskets are kit #12525814 @ $22.97
thermostat gasket is #10055726 @ $2.54
fuel feed line o-ring is #22514722 @ $.54
fuel return line o-ring is #22516256 @ $.39

For some reason both my O-rings were the bigger ones. Vette parts book says they are different sizes but mine were the same.

The factory service manual says that you make the front and rear seal with black RTV so there is no gasket for that in the kit.

Hope this helps.

Toni

PS. like everybody says and I will press this too: clean every surface and then clean them again!!

6spd89

Ya ,i let mine sit for 2 days because i was freaked out about having to do it twice!!! Let the RTV CURE...
What he said!!! :cheers:
matt

myscx

I'm afraid that I don't dare do it myself. I will probaly have the garage do it. But I am going to get the materials for the job. The garage gave me a quote of $600.00. Thats a lot of dough but I don't have much other choice :rolleyes:

ToniH

It is not that difficult if you have time. It can be done in 6 hours by first timers but usually takes like 2 days when done carefully. Cleaning takes an hour or two too if you want to be really sharp. So, in a weekend you can do it without a problem. It will cost you about $50 in parts.

However, if you are in hurry you might want to get it done by a professional but then you have no way of telling if the job was done properly. When you do it yourself you know what was done and how. And - it is a learning experience too :)

There is only couple of small details (with using RTV) which are not selfexplaining but otherwise very straightforward job: dismantle, clean, install. I am sure you get all the info you need from us. I say go for it!

Toni

Ps. with the money you save you can get a factory service manual that explains everything.