Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders...
07-26-2003, 07:56 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders...
When I removed the slave, I was expecting a whole bunch of fluid to pour from the line, but instead I got a slight drizzle. Is this normal? :confused:
I still need to bleed the system. I have the Haynes manual which gives the procedure, but does anyone out there maybe have any tips on this? It doesn't seem really complicated, but I've never done it before.
I still need to bleed the system. I have the Haynes manual which gives the procedure, but does anyone out there maybe have any tips on this? It doesn't seem really complicated, but I've never done it before.
07-26-2003, 08:40 PM
#2
Re: Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders... (A)
07-26-2003, 10:01 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Re: Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders... (A)
It took me about 25 - 30 separate "bleeds" to get my pedal nice and hard and high. It was hard and low in the first two or three "bleeds", but there was a tiny bubble of air somewhere in the system that stuck and wouldn't come out.
I finally got it. I've read about guys here not getting their pedal "high" even though the system felt nice and hard, so they left it that way and drove it, or cut and welded their actuating rods. That is :bs
If it's not hard and high, keep bleeding it. Gravity bleed, pressure bleed, wife bleed - whatever or as many ways as it takes.
It'll get hard and high eventually.
...My $.02... :rolleyes:
I finally got it. I've read about guys here not getting their pedal "high" even though the system felt nice and hard, so they left it that way and drove it, or cut and welded their actuating rods. That is :bs
If it's not hard and high, keep bleeding it. Gravity bleed, pressure bleed, wife bleed - whatever or as many ways as it takes.
It'll get hard and high eventually.
...My $.02... :rolleyes:
07-27-2003, 01:19 AM
#4
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2003
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Re: Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders... (A)
Take your slave cylinder off the trans and imagine that it is a needle at the doctors office (actuator rod as the plunger, hyd. line at the top). This is how I bled mine, but it gets really hard to push that actuator rod in once it gets tight. I used a piece of 2X4 to push against. Make sure you leave the rubber piece out of the reservoir when you do it and I also shoved a towel underneath. This is basically a forced bleed of the system. The hydraulic line should be horizontal at no point during the procedure. If you pull the slave cylinder to the side and do it from there you can actually see the bubbles coming out.
Good Luck! :thumbs:
Good Luck! :thumbs:
07-27-2003, 02:09 AM
#5
Safety Car
Re: Just installed new clutch master & slave cylinders... (A)
I bench bled the slave cylinder, so I didn't need to bleed the system after installation. This is basically how I did it:
1) Install new master cylinder and connect the hydraulic line. Do not put in fluid yet.
2) Bench bleed the new slave. You'll need a small syringe to fill the slave with clutch fluid through the hole that the hydraulic line connects to. When it gets closer to being full, hold it pretty much vertically so that the hole is on top, and press the rod down against something (I used a large heavy piece of wood) so that you push the rod in. This forces out the air at the top. When you get all the air out a little fluid might squirt out. Now, try to hold the slave with one hand and use the syringe with the other hand to introduce more fluid as you slowly let the rod out. This is a little tricky. It took me a few times of pushing the rod in and then letting it out as I introduced more fluid, but eventually I got almost all the air out. Then I moved the slave in different positions, and watched as air bubbles came out the hole. Add small amouts of fluid as necessary. Eventually, no more air bubbles come out, and the slave is completely full of fluid with no air.
3) Fill the slave as completely as you can with fluid, right up to the top of the fitting for the hydraulic line. The fluid level should be over the threads inside the fitting. Of course, keep the slave level so fluid doesn't come out. Get under the car with the slave, holding it level. Have a helper pour new fluid into the new master cylinder reservoir. Yes, it will start to leak out of the hydraulic line. Have a pan ready to catch the fluid, but it's good to clean out the line anyway. When you get a good flow of fluid out of the line, connect the slave up to the line as fluid is flowing out of the line. This is a little messy, but if you do it right little or no air should be in the connection. Tighten the hydraulic line connections. The slave is now hanging from the line, and no more fluid is leaking.
4) Install the slave onto the transmission. Make sure that the rod goes into the dimple in the clutch fork. Push the slave onto the studs, and secure the nuts. Pushing the slave into place was quite difficult... it takes some muscle to push the rod into the bore. But when you do this, the rod is forced back into the bore, where it normally is when the clutch is out, and fluid is forced back up into the master cylider. Any air that was in the line naturally goes up with the flow of fluid, so air that may have been in the line BLEEDS ITSELF OUT. Note: make sure you don't have too much fluid in the reservoir before you push the slave into position. The extra fluid coming back into the master might overflow. Install and tighten the nuts that hold the slave on.
5) Watch the fluid in the reservoir for bubbles as you push the clutch in and out. It took me quite a few cycles to get all the air out of the master cylinder, but that's how it normally comes out since there's no bleeder on the master. The clutch should be nice and firm... at least mine was!
1) Install new master cylinder and connect the hydraulic line. Do not put in fluid yet.
2) Bench bleed the new slave. You'll need a small syringe to fill the slave with clutch fluid through the hole that the hydraulic line connects to. When it gets closer to being full, hold it pretty much vertically so that the hole is on top, and press the rod down against something (I used a large heavy piece of wood) so that you push the rod in. This forces out the air at the top. When you get all the air out a little fluid might squirt out. Now, try to hold the slave with one hand and use the syringe with the other hand to introduce more fluid as you slowly let the rod out. This is a little tricky. It took me a few times of pushing the rod in and then letting it out as I introduced more fluid, but eventually I got almost all the air out. Then I moved the slave in different positions, and watched as air bubbles came out the hole. Add small amouts of fluid as necessary. Eventually, no more air bubbles come out, and the slave is completely full of fluid with no air.
3) Fill the slave as completely as you can with fluid, right up to the top of the fitting for the hydraulic line. The fluid level should be over the threads inside the fitting. Of course, keep the slave level so fluid doesn't come out. Get under the car with the slave, holding it level. Have a helper pour new fluid into the new master cylinder reservoir. Yes, it will start to leak out of the hydraulic line. Have a pan ready to catch the fluid, but it's good to clean out the line anyway. When you get a good flow of fluid out of the line, connect the slave up to the line as fluid is flowing out of the line. This is a little messy, but if you do it right little or no air should be in the connection. Tighten the hydraulic line connections. The slave is now hanging from the line, and no more fluid is leaking.
4) Install the slave onto the transmission. Make sure that the rod goes into the dimple in the clutch fork. Push the slave onto the studs, and secure the nuts. Pushing the slave into place was quite difficult... it takes some muscle to push the rod into the bore. But when you do this, the rod is forced back into the bore, where it normally is when the clutch is out, and fluid is forced back up into the master cylider. Any air that was in the line naturally goes up with the flow of fluid, so air that may have been in the line BLEEDS ITSELF OUT. Note: make sure you don't have too much fluid in the reservoir before you push the slave into position. The extra fluid coming back into the master might overflow. Install and tighten the nuts that hold the slave on.
5) Watch the fluid in the reservoir for bubbles as you push the clutch in and out. It took me quite a few cycles to get all the air out of the master cylinder, but that's how it normally comes out since there's no bleeder on the master. The clutch should be nice and firm... at least mine was!
