BIG K

Had to rescue wife from her way from work...104 degree heat today.
Car was making burnt smell... not of oil. There looked like melted rubber like material around the surpintine belt's travel path.

Yes there is a area on the belt that looks like it's wearing and tearing.
At the same time the A/C stopped working. All it's doing is blowing hot air.

The car did not over heat on the way home(yes I drove it), 197 deg. coolant and 216 on the oil.

I'm planning on repacing the surpintine belt end checking it for tightness.
What else should I be loking for?
Thanks so much again!

CorvetteZ51Racer

If the belt looks burned or melted like you're indicating, check to see if the compressor seized up.

superlund

Check your AC clutch also...

Hooked on Vettes

What year is your Vette?

The A/C clutch coil and housing has melted. A new one from the dealer is around $200.00 for 88-96. You get the Clutch coil, Clutch Plate and the Pulley/bearing.

There's a guy who sells new ones on E-bay for $75.00.

To replace the clutch assemby take the bolt off holding the clutch plate to the compressor shaft, remove a shim and a snap ring. You may need a spanner wrench but if you're creative you can get the bolt off with out it.





[Modified by Hooked on Vettes, 1:01 AM 7/19/2003]

Frizlefrak

Yup....sounds like the clutch has turned to mush.

BIG K

It's an '89.
What am I looking for when I pull apart the A/C clutch coil and housing etc that would indicate that it's the problem?

I don't have any experience buying anything on e-bay. In the news lately aution sites have had the most truble with cheating, fullfillment etc.

Have you had any personal experience with this guy?

Do you have the link to his site on e-bay?

Is there any place else I can look besides a recycle yard for these parts?
Thanks



[Modified by BIG K, 1:01 AM 7/19/2003]

Frizlefrak

You will usually see black, gooey crap coming from around the A/C clutch if it's the culprit. To be honest with you, you can buy a reman A/C compressor with clutch from AutoZone for less than $100. This is what I did on the 84 when my compressor died a noisy death. Also converted it over to R-134A while I was at it, and replaced orifice tube, evaporator/drier, O-rings, and vacuumed the system. My AutoZone special is on it's 3rd hot Texas summer and is holding up just fine, and I get around 42 degrees at the vent.

I would be remiss about putting used A/C parts on my car, particularly when you can buy something with a warranty this inexpensively.

As for eBay......There are good and bad guys on eBay. Watch their feedback ratings, and if you're worried about a high ticket purchase, use their escrow service. I bought my Corvette seats new on eBay, and have been very happy with them. Use common sense and you should be fine.

BIG K

Less than $100.00 sounds great with warranty!
I just put about $100.00 worth or R12 in it as I just put the rebuilt engine in it.

So are you telling me that to replace the compressor that I will lose the R12?

Do you recall how much that you invested to change it over to R-134A?

I guess the cheapest thing to do would be to find someone that has the ability to store the R12 while I'm replacing the compressor and refill?

What do you think?--Thanks for you help!

Lionsden

Our 89 had the same/similar problem. The compressor could still be turned by hand. With the engine running the compressor would kick on and the clutch would smoke. The compressor had excessive resistance under load. Replacing the compressor fixed our problem.

The 89 uses a different compressor than the earlier Vettes. The 89 compressor is around $300 compared to $125 for the earlier R4 compressor.

VetteTech81

Converting over to 134A I would not reccomend, it's a cheap alternative but not always the most effective. Nothing cools as well as R12 and on top of that the system was designed to work with R12 not 134A the pressures may be slightly different but most importantly the size of the evaporator and condensor was made for R12 so there is no telling how well it will work.. I've seen r12 systems pump out almost 32 degrees.. 42 is good. but again it's all upto if you want to save money but just remmber it's possible you may not be happt with the results..
thats my .02
-Rick

Frizlefrak

Losing the R-12 is a consideration. And yes you will if you remove the compressor without having the system evacuated. In your boat, I might opt for just replacing the clutch. I also didn't realize GM used a different compressor after 88. You might check prices on buying the clutch vs buying a new compressor/clutch assembly. A lot of times, there isn't much difference in $$$. Then just remove the clutch from the new unit and install it on yours, and seal up the new compressor and keep it for a rainy day.

As for the R-134A conversion, this issue has been beat to death on this forum. Some say yes, others say no. I live in a very hot climate, and mine cools as well as it did on R-12, at least I can't feel a difference. A lot of it depends on how the conversion is done. I did all the labor on mine, and it ran me about $225 for all the parts, and took about 4-5 hours. The nice thing about doing a conversion, particularly if you plan on keeping this car, is that you can buy refrigerant off the shelf from AutoZone, Pep Girls, or even Wal-Mart for that matter. Try doing that with R-12. These days, it kinda sucks to spend big $$ on R-12 and then have an O-ring go bad and have it escape. With the conversion, you are $10 and 45 minutes away from cold air again.

Whatever you decide, good luck and let us know how it turns out.

BIG K

Good idea about the clutch.

I wonder. Can the clutch be exchanged without taking off the compressor?

Jetts4u2

I convert all my cars to R134. I live in Florida and have to drive in the heat everyday. I have in a leak in my vette that I can't find, but when I put the R134 in it, it blows ice cubes. I also have 5.0 mustangs that work great with the R134. Like they say in the other posts, ya just swing by autozone and buy a 12 oz. can for $7... I know some states, like Wisconsin, still won't sell the enviromentally friendly 134 over the counter, don't know why. But if you can get it, I would convert to it and not bother with the R-12. If your compressor went, you better flush the system real good, or the garbage from the old compressor may eat the new compressor. As for Autozone, I buy my compressors there, but it is hit or miss, you may go through a couple of them before you end up with a good one. If you got the money, buy a quality compressor to start out with, and only do it once... There is nothing worse then having a compressor go bad when you need it. Good luck. :cheers:

BIG K

Thanks for the reply Jetts4u2. I'm taking the car in for warrentty work in the AM for the engine. I'm going to wait until I get it back to work on the A/C.
Hopefully, the weather will cool off by then. We have been having 104 degs+.

If the compressor is still good and I only need to replace the clutch, then I'll stay with the R-12. I just put about a C note in freon in.

BIG K

Is there a way to test the clutch on the compressor.
Thanks!

SunCr

The basic troubleshooting test for the compressor and clutch assembly is to turn the the outer hub of the clutch by hand. If it turns freely with minimal resistance, the compressor is probably ok. Otherwise, the compressor is probably seized. That black gooey stuff you're seeing though could be compressor oil and if so, the front seal may have blown out causing the compressor to seize. Did you notice any oil on the underside of the hood above the compressor before this happened? Most seals deteriorate gradually and you'll notice the oil before the compressor seizes - trust the system was leaked checked before it was recharged - especially in CA as I don't know of any shop which will charge it if it's leaking. Autozone and the other discounters generally sell the Factory Air brand which has a lousy reputation and the clutch assembly has a different looking face plate if originality is important to you. If you do replace the clutch, make sure to get the shim kit too (it comes with the Factory Air brand; for a A/C Delco it's a separate $9 to $12 part). Use a strap wrench or oil filter pliers to hold the outer hub while you remove the 10mm nut. Gently pry or tap on the outer hub if it won't slip off once the nut is removed. Have you hand underneath to catch any shims. Pulley and the coil are held on with snap rings. A mechanic's mirror will help you see them if the compressor is on the car. When replacing, make sure the snap rings are fully seated; otherwise the burning odor will return when the pulley or coil breaks loose. Shim the outer hub until you have a .020 clearance. Torque the bolt to 10 ft/lbs.

onedef92

I agree about buying a quality compressor from the get-go. If you go ghetto, that thing's liable to come apart and contaminate your entire A/C system lines, expanion valve, orifice tube, dryer, and evaporator core with dark, oily stuff (the remnants of your O.E.M. compressor.)

And let me tell you, pulling out a Corvette's evaporator core ain't no fun. :nono:

BIG K

Thanks much for your responces. I will check as soon as I can to find out which one is broken.
I checked with the dealer and they are telling me $388.00 for the clutch and $838.00 for the compressor.
Look like I'd be over $1K without even putting any freon in it!

By the way if your compressor goes, do you automaticlly lose your freon?

SunCr

The Last Detail http://www.tld-corvette.com usually has the best prices on the Nippondenso compressor and a/c delco clutch assembly. If the compressor has seized, you don't necessarily lose the charge, but the entire system is contaminated with metal shavings and will need to be flushed. New or reman compressor warranties are often void unless you can show that the system was flushed. Most DIYs just flush the evaporator and lines by blowing compressed air through them after shooting them with brake parts cleaner (hold some cheese cloth or handkerchief over the openings until no more oil or junk comes out). Then replace the condensor, orifice & accumulator along with the compressor and anything that's left will get trapped in the orifice, but won't ruin the new compressor.

onedef92

Yes, but at that point, who cares? You'll already have to automatically replace the big ticket itmes like the clutch/compressor and stator coil and the expansion valve, dryer, and possibly evaporator core depending on the amount of damage. The R134a stuff's less than $7 per can. :crazy: