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How can you diagnose a bad u-joint or wheel bearing
Well, the problem with the car this week is a creaking noise when I take off from a dead stop in first or reverse. I'm guessing the u-joints or the wheel bearings, or god knows. How can I diagnose these possibilities? By the way, am I the only one who has CONSTANT problems with their vette?
Re: How can you diagnose a bad u-joint or wheel bearing (bogus)
Don't feel alone, I bought my first vette in April and have been working on it EVERY DAY. Its a money pit, but when I pull into my driveway after a long day at work and see MY VETTE I still have to pinch myself. By the way I also have the same problem with my vette. From a dead stop I hear a noise from the rear.I was told it could be the u joints or wheel bearings.
I hope to correct the problem soon.
Re: How can you diagnose a bad u-joint or wheel bearing (VQT88Vette)
Mine has the same noise. Ive put on thousands of miles in everything from Mojave desert to sleet in the canadian rockies and nothings broke. Its not the bearings and ive done the u joints. I think its the spring taking up tension on the bolt that holds it there. Next time im under it i will grease the joint on the flat spring. Just my 2 cents worth.
Location: Almost all Skyline Cruises Vettes at Waterside 1-5
Re: How can you diagnose a bad u-joint or wheel bearing (1995LT1)
:cheers: There may be a 3rd scenario...I have seen it discussed here and I am about to find out for myself...that the splines on the half shaft at the bearing, can get rusty/dry....and make various noises under the conditions you describe. I have a similar problem, noise like metal on metal and bank going into ggear. sometimes...rap..rap...rap...when I get on it from a stop
Re: How can you diagnose a bad u-joint or wheel bearing (jackdaroofer)
I learned that the sounds can fool you. I had the driver side half-shaft U-jounts go south. I did not get any clicking, popping before they went out. I was driving home one day and all of a sudden heard the darndest sound coming from the rear of the car. It sounded like I had a piece of wire or a stick up against a rotating something or another.
I drove home slowly, jacked it up and rotated the rear wheels, tried to shake the half shafts, all was tight. I convinced myself that it was the left rear wheel bearing. Boy was I wrong. $300 dollars and a Saturday later, I had the same sound and the old wheel bearing looked and felt perfect. It was the U-joints! I removed them and could not believe that they felt tight in the car, but were absolute toast. Now, about a month and a half later, I hear the passenger side going out. Replacing them tomorrow.