vvv90

I feel like the biggest moron in the world! I cannot for the life of me get the balancer off. In the tech tips section it was suggested to use a 6" 2 claw puller. Well, that's what I'm using and it is not wide enough to grab the balancer. Not only that, if I use an 8" I don't for the life of me see how there's going to be enough space to tighten the puller with the cross brace in the way. I'm am seriously stumped.

Someone please give me an idea how to make this easier.

84FromHell

Jaws puller? :nono:

Here's a link to the tech section that tells you what you need .. you have to read down the article a ways to get to what you're looking for, but it's interesting reading anyways ... He talks about using a lathe to cut the puller down, but I just hacked mine off with a die grinder on the top and welded a thin nut to it. Anyways it worked like a charm! email me if you get stuck or want pics of the puller (which was a cheapie from Harbor Freight) :steering:

MSR

a '92 is an LT1? are you having problems with pulling the damper off the hub? or the hub off the crank? or are you trying to do both at once?

84FromHell

Ooops! forgot the link :banghead:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=54&TopicID=2

vvv90

Well, I've read that tech tip and I think the LT-1's are different. The LT-1 has a balancer/pulley combo that's one piece. The balancer connects with 3 bolts to a hub, and the hub then connects to the crank snout with the center bolt. I tried loosening the center bolt as much as I could and then using the center screw type puller to remove both the balancer and hub at the same time, however, I stopped because it got extremely hard to turn and I was worried that I was going to mess up the balancer in some way. The length of the center screw on the puller is not a problem. I uncrewed the hydraulic line that connects to the rack and pinion and that allows the center screw to stick out in front of the cross brace. Has anyone removed both the balancer and crank hub at once before?

84FromHell

good point vvv90 .. I've never done it on an LT 1 .. yet heheh

bheston

Perhaps it would be easier to pull the balancer off the hub and then remove he hub. I pulled my balancer off a couple of days ago and it took about 10 minutes. That leaves the hub open. I haven't pulled the hub off before so I may not be helping your cause.

fsr402

I just had mine off last week, go under the car and with a piece of wood and a 2LBS hammer tap it off.. Just make sure you move around it so it comes off straight.. It will come off.. On the LT1 it is a one piece deal and is held on with 3 bolts ...:seeya


[Modified by fsr402, 8:44 PM 4/6/2003]

MSR

i've never taken it off as one piece, but something about what you said made me think of this:

the crank bolt's head is too large for the hub to pass over. on fords, you remove the washer, reinsert the bolt, and the damper pulls right off. but with the LT-series, even removing the washer, the bolt head still interferes.

that may be why it suddenly became difficult for you. try inserting a longer bolt for the puller to push against.

PurpleC4

Try This~

LT1_LT4 Balancer/Hub Removal
By following this procedure you will gain access and be able to change the three front timing cover seals (Water Pump, OptiSpark Drive, Front Crankshaft/Balancer)
Unlike its SBC predecessor, the LT1/LT4 Balancer is a two-piece assembly consisting of an (inner) hub, and (outer) balancer/pulley. Removal of the assembly can be frustrating if approached in the conventional way. By following the procedures below, you can safely and quickly remove the assembly with little or no problem.
You may want to consider using Rhino Ramps or jack stands to gain additional access space and elbow room underneath the front of the engine.
1. Drain the radiator by opening the drain valve on the lower right hand (passenger side)
2. Remove the serpentine belt
3. Remove the upper radiator hose
4. Remove the water pump. When removing the water pump, it is important to remember that the LT1/LT4 water pump is attached to the engine with 3 bolts on each side, vs. its predecessor, which only had 2 bolts on each side. The center bolt on the driver side is a challenge, but can be removed without removal of the power steering pump. When removing the water pump, take care to remove the pump drive coupler along with the pump and place it on the pump drive shaft for use when re-installing the pump.
5. Mark the coil wire and all plug wires at the OptiSpark cap for easy reference when re-installing the OptiSpark unit after balancer seal repairs have been completed.
6. NOTE: There is no need to separate the balancer pulley from the hub if you intend to pull the hub off anyway. The only time you need to separate the pulley from the hub is if you are simply changing the OptiSpark. There is a match mark that is cast into the balancer assembly that allows you to mate the two pieces together in the exact orientation that they come apart. If you intend to separate the balancer pulley from the hub, locate the marks and make note for re-assembly.
7. The balancer pulley is attached to the hub with three bolts. The bolts are 7/16” SAE standard, 14 threads per inch, ¾” length (not metric). Fully remove all three bolts, and if you intend to remove the unit as a complete assembly, jump to steps 9 thru 18. If you intend to separate the assembly, continue by rethreading one bolt by a couple of turns. It is now time to separate the pulley from the hub. Most pulleys have been found to be rusted in place and require considerable effort to separate from the hub. Spraying the inside of the pulley with penetrating oil helps. Do not strike the pulley with a hammer in your frustrated attempts to remove. The best method is to position yourself under the engine with a steel rod (or better yet a brass drift) and one healthy hammer. Position the rod/drift on the inside portion of the balancer when striking it with the hammer. This step requires more than a gentle tap. Try to position yourself so you can give a good solid hit at each rotation. Rotate the crankshaft 120 degrees after every couple of heavy hammer blows. Do not hit on the outer diameter of the pulley as damage can and will occur.

NOTE: It has been said that an easier way to separate the pulley from the hub is to loosen the 3 bolts by 1 turn each, then start the motor for a few seconds. I assume that this is with the serpentine belt still in place. It does make sense that the harmonics associated with this step will loosen the pulley. What have you got to lose by trying this step? I say go for it!
8. After successfully separating the pulley from the hub, it is now time to unbolt and remove the OptiSpark module. As with the water pump, a coupler drives the OptiSpark module and care should be taken to remove the drive shaft and place with the OptiSpark module for use when re-installing the unit. When the time comes to re-install the OptiSpark unit on the engine, you should pay close attention to the Notice below
Notice
Contrary to what all the books say, in some cases, the OptiSpark drive coupler can/will go on in more than one position. When the coupler is correctly installed, the OptiSpark unit will slide in place and rest firmly against the timing cover without forcing it into position. The drive spline in the rear of the OptiSpark is keyed. Pay close attention to the key, and match it up with the corresponding slot on the drive coupler.
9. Finally, it is now time to remove the hub. The center bolt that holds the hub on the crankshaft snout is 7/16” fine thread (not metric). I have found that I can generally break the center bolt loose by placing a 6 sided socket on the bolt, with a ½” breaker bar attached. By striking the breaker bar with that healthy hammer you just used in step #7, you can break the torque on the bolt.
10. Fully remove the bolt, remove the washer from the bolt, then re-install the bolt by 3 full turns.
11. Re-read step #10. If you skip this step, you are a screwed pooch.
12. The “General” was thinking when he installed the power steering rack hydraulic lines as he has installed a loop in the lines that allow the use of a balancer puller without interference of the puller jack screw. Check it out, you will be glad that he did this.
13. Use a standard balancer puller that requires the use of 3 puller bolts that fit into 3 slots on the crab portion. Make sure that you use a tip on the jack screw end that is a flat rotating plate, not a sharp point, because you will eventually place the jack screw end directly on the head of the center bolt of the hub and you don’t want to damage it.
14. Next, select three new (or used) 7/16” bolts that are of sufficient length to slip thru the puller and fully thread into the hub where you previously removed the 3 bolts in step #7. If you do not have 3 – 7/16” bolts that are the proper length, you can use bolts that are slightly smaller than the tapped holes so you can slip them completely thru the hub. Make sure that the bolts are of sufficient length so that you can insert them completely thru the puller assembly and the hub, with a flat washer on each end, and a nut on the backside.
15. Rotate the entire hub assembly until the (^) mark is at the 12:00 position before removing the hub. When re-installing the hub, make sure that you install it back in the same orientation. This is a balance mark, and although it really won’t make too much difference if you fail to do this, it is there for a purpose, so try to do the right thing here.
16. Position the puller onto the front of the hub, with the jack end of the jackscrew slid thru the power steering line loop, and attach as mentioned above.
17. You are now ready to slowly remove the hub from the crankshaft snout. The crank may start to turn as you apply force. Placing a 2x4 against the puller and left wheel "A" frame will stop the rotation. If you have access to a micrometer (click style) torque wrench you will find that it will take about 70 - 85 foot pounds of torque before you will see the hub start to move. As you continue to turn the jackscrew in a clockwise rotation, the hub will slide off the crankshaft. Keep doing this until you feel the hub come loose, or until you back it out against the shoulder of the center bolt. It may be beneficial to purchase a 3" x 7/16 grade 8 fine thread bolt and continued the removal with that. Without the 3" bolt you might not be able to get the hub all the way off.
Plan to use the 3” x 7/16” bolt when re-installing the hub back on the crankshaft after your repairs are complete. Just slide the washer over the bolt, start the bolt in the crankshaft, and mechanically pull the balancer back onto the crankshaft snout.
18. You have successfully removed the balancer hub. Now, time to R&R that front seal assembly.
19. I find it easiest to remove the front seal with a seal puller tool that you can buy at the auto parts store. It is designed to roll the seal out with leverage.
20. Prior to re-installing the new seal, I recommend placing a small bead of sealer around the outer circumference of the seal prior to tapping it in. I use a ball peen hammer to get it started, then a large socket over the crankshaft snout to drive it in. Don’t forget to check the hub shaft for excessive wear, and if so, buy a speedy sleeve to slip over it.
NOTE: I am looking for feedback from those who use this procedure in improving the steps above, and adding a section for re-installing the balancer hub. Please e-mail me at PurpleC4@qwest.net with your feedback.
Purp

vvv90

Thanks guys for all your help. It's official, I'm a dolt! Leave it up to me to take hours to do something that takes minutes. Since I kept reading in the tech tips section that I needed a puller, I didn't think for 2 seconds that there's a REASON the GM shop manual doesn't mention a puller. I DON'T NEED ONE!!! HELLO! I just pryed it off with a prybar.....took 2 minutes.

Oh well, at least it's off. Thanks again everyone!!!
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

At this rate I should have the blower on by 2006!! :cry


[Modified by vvv90, 11:04 PM 4/6/2003]