badddrx7

Ok, I have a 96 with 10k miles that I have winterized and went to start up today and found a small drip coming from the weep hole on the water pump. I have looked it over in the manual and looks like an easy changeout but had a few questions for the pro's since this is my first C4 WP replacement - Is there any critical points here ? What am I looking at in cost for an OEM replacement? Is there a cheaper way ( like overhaul kit ) ? Anything I missed?
Thanks, Tom
:confused:

PurpleC4

This is part of my procedure for removal of the harmonic balancer. I hope this helps.

1. Drain the radiator by opening the drain valve on the lower right hand (passenger side)
2. Remove the serpentine belt
3. Remove the upper radiator hose
4. Remove the water pump. When removing the water pump, it is important to remember that the LT1/LT4 water pump is attached to the engine with 3 bolts on each side, vs. its predecessor, which only had 2 bolts on each side. The center bolt on the driver side is a challenge, but can be removed without removal of the power steering pump. When removing the water pump, take care to remove the pump drive coupler along with the pump and place it on the pump drive shaft for use when re-installing the pump.

~ Purp :seeya

Strick

Here's something to think about; an electric coolant pump. I'm seriously thinking about this upgrade for 4 reasons. One, when the mod is done, there is one less place for oil to leak from the timing cover. Two, potentially you have more horsepower available since the pump is not driven by the cam. Three, the LT-1/4 water pump when it does start to fail, leaks all over the Opti-spark through the weep hole. The mod does away with that weep hole problem. Four, the flow of coolant is not reduced at idle allowing more cooling in traffic.
From what I have seen, you use your old housing and wire it up.
Again, just something to think about. Cost $215.
Strick :crazy:

One more thing, one could wire it up to manually turn on the fans and increase the coolant flow, especially in traffic on a hot day. :chevy


[Modified by Strick, 1:06 AM 3/11/2003]


[Modified by Strick, 1:07 AM 3/11/2003]

SouthernSon

If you replace with OEM, remove the belt tensioner to help gain access to the farthest most water pump bolt on the driver side. Be sure to run tap into holes to clean them up and put liquid teflon on threads of the four long bolts before reinstalling. Put gaskets on dry. At least this is what I did with complete success.

tdock

I got good use out of a 14mm swivel head socket from sears (where the socket is right on the swivel), can't remember if it was the bottom bolt (like southern_son is referring to) or the middle drivers side, but you can get it through the idler pulley with the swivel.

El Guapo

be very careful when reinstalling the waterpump to not get it in a bind. Take your time tightening each of the six bolts in a nice criss crossing pattern.

RadPolo96

Also remember to make sure those gaskets dont move, they like to when reinstalling. I put them on with some rtv silicon the night before and let it settle so they wouldnt move the next day.


[Modified by RadPolo96, 12:57 PM 3/11/2003]

92LT1Roadster

:iagree: :yesnod: :cheers:

badddrx7

Thanks for all the pointers - How much is a new GM oem water pump and is there a rebuild kit ?

Tom

SouthernSon

Best price that I have found is from Jeff Kopp. And another thing, get the two little o-rings that go under each end of the coupler. The coupler end with the groove goes toward the timing cover, if it makes any difference.

badddrx7

I like the idea of an Electric WP. Summit has one - Red anodizer aluminum. pt number csi-901R. Do you think it will fit and have the threaded holes for the sensors, etc ? I may go this way. :cool:

ENJ

I thing that I 've found out the hard way awhile ago changing out my water pump. COVER YOUR OPTISPARK . Cover it with plastic & a rag. If this item gets wet, you'll pull the water pump again to change the opti. Now, if before you take off your original water pump, you drain the radiator & pullout one of your knock sensors to fully lower the fuild level in the block. Your water pump change will go without problems.

Strick

Hey ENJ,
I like your stripes. Who did them?

As far as the sensor on the water pump, it is not on the part of the pump that is replaced with the electric water pump. :yesnod:

I'm still trying to convince myself on this. If I do it, I'll take pics and post them with the instructions.

Strick :flag :steering:

ENJ

Hello Strick, the stripes I did myself in the garage last winter 2001. Had a sign shop cut a couple of rolls of tape & I went to work. As for the sensor on the water pump. I wasn't refering to that. When you unbolt the water pump from the engine block, the coolant level is so high in the block that when your separate the water pump from the block, massive amounts of coolant will flow out of the block. By pulling the knock sensor out, you'll ensure that most of the coolant is away from the water pump openings in the block, thus saving your opti from getting water poored on top of it. I've done this before & learned after having to by another opti spark. It's just a suggestion.

Strick

To ENJ,
Okay, I understand now what you are talking about. When you took out the knock sensor, was it reuseable? Looks like it might come apart when removing it.
Strick :steering: :steering:

drduppa

What is the metric thread size and thread pitch for these water pump bolts? :confused:

John Row

That pump is probably for an L98. For an LT1 all you need is the motor. It bolts right into the stock housing. The Summit P/N is MEZ-WP-118. I'm not sure if that's the standard or heavy duty one. Standard is ~40GPM HD is ~50GPM

It's a pretty simple installation.

I think CSI makes one for an LT1, but it wasn't on Summits catalog.

SHiNoBi LT4

Mezziere all the way :cheers:

ENJ

Strick, yes it's re-useable. I think that I used a 3/4 long socket (I believe) to remove it from the block.