New engine, Installing distributor..
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
New engine, Installing distributor..
Hello all,
If you have had an engine built for your C4, (This is an '89) Do you put the distributor in, on the stand, or after the engine's been installed. I recall a tight fit, getting it out, while removing the engine. How and why did you install your distributor. I plan on turning the key to on, to make sure there aren't fuel leaks. (A long way from now).
The machine shop should be closing in on finalizing anything that needs address. Going to prime the engine, for certain. Thanks for reading, and I really appreciate a response.
>>How and why did you install your distributor.
I mean, I know why you installed it, but why before putting the engine in, and or why putting it in after. Sorry.. trying to _phrase_ things.
If you have had an engine built for your C4, (This is an '89) Do you put the distributor in, on the stand, or after the engine's been installed. I recall a tight fit, getting it out, while removing the engine. How and why did you install your distributor. I plan on turning the key to on, to make sure there aren't fuel leaks. (A long way from now).
The machine shop should be closing in on finalizing anything that needs address. Going to prime the engine, for certain. Thanks for reading, and I really appreciate a response.
>>How and why did you install your distributor.
I mean, I know why you installed it, but why before putting the engine in, and or why putting it in after. Sorry.. trying to _phrase_ things.
Last edited by stiggity99; 04-04-2024 at 07:42 PM. Reason: why?
#2
Burning Brakes
What I do, as I think it’s easiest is install without Distributor, Intake, Harmonic Balancer / Pulley and the difficult to find but fragile viper motor cover if you have aftermarket valve covers. But, many people have installed with most of those things in place.
I usually use the hole for the distributor to prime the engine.
Trial fit the distributor ahead of time to aid in installation later, as it has to be clocked on the drive gear spline.
I usually use the hole for the distributor to prime the engine.
Trial fit the distributor ahead of time to aid in installation later, as it has to be clocked on the drive gear spline.
#3
a little FYI from an experienced dumb-***. don't know how an 89 is configured, but do not try a fuel pressure test without the ECM being properly grounded. one would think that because the ECM is in a metal case, it's some sort of chassis ground. NOT TRUE. i thought this on my 85 - same thing, attempting a fuel pressure test. LSS, blew out the fuel priming circuit - the 2 second thing, within the ECM. turns out, on an 85, the ECM is actually grounded to the rear of the LH cylinder head. i failed to secure that ground connection. as the old saying goes - electrons are funny things - if you don't provide a ground path, they (the electrons) will seek out their own, and that being the path of least resistance. in my 85, that happened to be the ECM priming circuit. that little FU cost me 100$. your FSM should tell you exactly where the ECM's ground point is located.
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
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2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Remove the windshield wiper motor. Leave distributor in engine, but remove cap, coil, and rotor. That gives you plenty of room to get engine in and not have to mess with the timing again (assuming you timed it on a stand already)
The following 2 users liked this post by FostersPerformance:
'78CorvetteS.A. (04-05-2024),
Incorvettei (04-05-2024)
#5
Burning Brakes
I agree with fosters performance.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fosters..
I'm going with Fosters.... I can prime on stand, and install the distributor, minus cap/rotor/coil.
Reason I asked, the distributor was removed, while the engine was installed. Thanks for all
of the help.
Reason I asked, the distributor was removed, while the engine was installed. Thanks for all
of the help.