1994 A/T issue
11-22-2022, 09:09 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
1994 A/T issue
1994 vert. 75k miles. Last couple of days it felt "off". Just seemed like it was pulling okay right after takeoff, but more like it was holding back a little from 40/60 mph. This morning I lost third gear. First, second, then revs high and doesn't pull, just slips. Occasionally feels like it grabs for a few seconds then revs high again. Turned around and went back home a distance of three miles. Fluid doesn't look very dark, no strong burning smell, and level is on the mark. Never got it over forty so didn't get a 3/4 shift but 2/3 ain't happening.
Would it be worth dropping the pan and looking for sediment, maybe changing the solenoids? Any way to check the solenoids, especially the EPC one? Or just figure on the 3/4 clutch pack needing replacing?
Would it be worth dropping the pan and looking for sediment, maybe changing the solenoids? Any way to check the solenoids, especially the EPC one? Or just figure on the 3/4 clutch pack needing replacing?
11-23-2022, 09:13 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
1994 vert. 75k miles. Last couple of days it felt "off". Just seemed like it was pulling okay right after takeoff, but more like it was holding back a little from 40/60 mph. This morning I lost third gear. First, second, then revs high and doesn't pull, just slips. Occasionally feels like it grabs for a few seconds then revs high again. Turned around and went back home a distance of three miles. Fluid doesn't look very dark, no strong burning smell, and level is on the mark. Never got it over forty so didn't get a 3/4 shift but 2/3 ain't happening.
Would it be worth dropping the pan and looking for sediment, maybe changing the solenoids? Any way to check the solenoids, especially the EPC one? Or just figure on the 3/4 clutch pack needing replacing?
Would it be worth dropping the pan and looking for sediment, maybe changing the solenoids? Any way to check the solenoids, especially the EPC one? Or just figure on the 3/4 clutch pack needing replacing?
11-23-2022, 11:54 AM
#3
Instructor
Have you tried manually shifting? The fuse arbee mentioned, is the trans fuse. That should put the car into limp mode. If that doesn't work, it's internal. My car does the same but doesn't hit 3rd, just second.
11-23-2022, 02:46 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have tried manually shifting. Same result. First, second, no third or fourth. Revs and slips. When the "no third" happened, I turned around and took it back home. Fluid doesn't smell burnt, smells same as a fresh quart.
Only reason I asked about the EPC solenoid was that I read somewhere it controlled line pressure and if sticking could result in erratic or failure to shift symptoms.
Only reason I asked about the EPC solenoid was that I read somewhere it controlled line pressure and if sticking could result in erratic or failure to shift symptoms.
Last edited by BADRACR1; 11-24-2022 at 12:50 AM.
11-24-2022, 10:24 AM
#5
Instructor
I have tried manually shifting. Same result. First, second, no third or fourth. Revs and slips. When the "no third" happened, I turned around and took it back home. Fluid doesn't smell burnt, smells same as a fresh quart.
Only reason I asked about the EPC solenoid was that I read somewhere it controlled line pressure and if sticking could result in erratic or failure to shift symptoms.
Only reason I asked about the EPC solenoid was that I read somewhere it controlled line pressure and if sticking could result in erratic or failure to shift symptoms.
It's a possibility. If you can pressure test your tranny, that would help a lot. I remember when my 1990 lost 4th, it turned out to be the pump. Dropping your pan should answer most of your questions.
11-25-2022, 02:10 PM
#6
Instructor
Fuse #17, VALET. Trans will be in 3rd gear only. If it doesn't move or slips badly from a standstill, the 3-4 is likely gone.
1st gear solenoid state is ON-ON, 2nd gear is ON-OFF. It has 1st, and a 1-2 shift occurs. The shift solenoids are ok.
Be aware that transmission codes don't illuminate the check engine, or any other, light. In a C4, you can query transmission codes using the onboard CCM diagnostics. I think (but am not certain) that 94 and 95 trans codes will also display with the "paper clip method" for pulling ECM codes. I've owned a bunch of 4L60e transmissions in personal vehicles. I have had some odd **** happen over the years that pulling the codes led me directly to the problem, and helped resolve it.
Pull the pan and inspect for debris, but I once found 3-4 frictions that had destroyed the internal splines, so those frictions weren't holding any longer, then the remaining functioning frictions burned up. The first detection of 'slipping' in 4th, then loss of 4th, then 3rd too occurred over about 20 miles. Nothing was in the pan on that one. (The friction splines wearing over time is fairly common.)
Begin with pulling any codes. But your symptoms, and the fairly quick development of the symptoms indicate to me a 3-4 clutch failure.
1st gear solenoid state is ON-ON, 2nd gear is ON-OFF. It has 1st, and a 1-2 shift occurs. The shift solenoids are ok.
Be aware that transmission codes don't illuminate the check engine, or any other, light. In a C4, you can query transmission codes using the onboard CCM diagnostics. I think (but am not certain) that 94 and 95 trans codes will also display with the "paper clip method" for pulling ECM codes. I've owned a bunch of 4L60e transmissions in personal vehicles. I have had some odd **** happen over the years that pulling the codes led me directly to the problem, and helped resolve it.
Pull the pan and inspect for debris, but I once found 3-4 frictions that had destroyed the internal splines, so those frictions weren't holding any longer, then the remaining functioning frictions burned up. The first detection of 'slipping' in 4th, then loss of 4th, then 3rd too occurred over about 20 miles. Nothing was in the pan on that one. (The friction splines wearing over time is fairly common.)
Begin with pulling any codes. But your symptoms, and the fairly quick development of the symptoms indicate to me a 3-4 clutch failure.
. Which brings me to a question, are 4L60/e really that difficult to work on? I've only gone valvebody deep.
11-25-2022, 02:27 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
NO transmission is that difficult that a person with average mechanical skills and reading ability can't rebuild. a 4L60 is one of the easier ones. For some reason, people think that auto transmissions are this mystical piece of wonderment that is to be avoided like the China virus. Learn how planetary gears work and learn how hydraulic systems work and then the rest is just application of basic mechanical skills. Many are conned into thinking there is a raft of "specialty" tools needed for hundreds or thousands of dollars. Not so. They may make the job faster and easier but all my tools are home built. The only tool I have come across that was absolutely needed was the snap ring plier for a 6l80 rebuild. That is one stout MF'n snap ring.