LokiFalkor

Hello Everyone. New motor is about ready to install. would like some feedback one some items first if I could. R&R'd lots of engines in my life, just never a C4. looking for those things you wish you knew when you did yours.

'87 Auto. The transmission is staying in the car. don't worry - I know about clocking the converter and all that. Yeah, the plugs being in will make it harder to turn over for the converter bolts to go in.

How 'Assembled' can these go in from the top? As you see, I have the TPIS plate to make life easier. I've read and seen videos of these going in with manifolds and long tube headers so my Doug's shorties should be fine. Which is good as I was really questioning the passenger rear header bolt.

I imagine the 6 tranny to block bolts are done from under the car. probably the top two with a 2' extension and universal.

Pull the wiper motor right?

How much of the front accessory brackets can we get away with putting on outside of the car?

The TPIS plate came with bolts that have a 1/2" shoulder a the top. this leaves the plate having 1/2" vertical travel when bolts are snug. Is that how all of you leave it, or change the bolts for ones that go snug?

Anyone put one in with the distributor already installed? Not the cap (yes - Summit sent me the wrong cap) just the base with #1 already set.

I'll probably take the rocker covers and plug wires off before since the covers have to come off to get to the runner bolts easily.

The damn bolt that goes into the A/C compressor from the back. when do you guys attach that? do you discharge the A/C and put the compressor on when the engine is out? I've been contemplating making that bolt go in from the front.

Any tips/tricks would be appreciated. Thanks.

LokiFalkor

Ok, how about one answer... can it go in with the distributor base in?

J H

I installed a replacement engine in my 85 a few years ago. From what I can remember, It is going to be very difficult, if not impossible, to get to the top bellhousing bolts with the valve covers on. And, the entire distributor needs to be removed. When I installed the engine on my car, I did not put the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold, the starter or the spark plugs on until the engine was in place. No front accessories (including the water pump) were installed until the engine was in place. Also, the oil pressure sending items were left off as well.

jv9999

I get the top bellhousing bolts from underneath with about 3' of extensions and a 9/16 flex socket. Pretty easy actually. If you're going to leave the trans in, you will need to remove the engine mounts. Not a lot of fun to get at the bolts, but it can be done.
I never tried mounting the accessories first. I think it would make aligning everything trickier.

LokiFalkor

Hmm... I wonder if I put two studs in the upper bellhousing holes on the engine if it would give me the flexibility to have it all slide together with the motor mounts bolted to the engine?

wilcar

Agree, the less things left on the engine the easier your install will go. Distributor , especially the fat head hei is in the way. I pulled and installed my 84 engine from the side which was a little more challenging and I needed a second person underneath to help get guide it in. Find a friend to help you for sure. Definetly remove those pretty valve covers and headers!!

Boggedust

When I installed my l98 around 8 months ago I kept the distributor in no problem. I did have to take off the crank pully, alternator and ac I believe. Definitely take out the wiper motor. Be very careful with the brake booster as I broke mine when the engine was swinging back and forth. Also, in my opinion, the torque converter is impossible to install when the engine is already in, must be done first.