Twisted Drive shaft
#21
Melting Slicks
If you had a correct length that would get him drive-able. I've never tried to do a ZF 'correct' for a 1350 but I might. If there is one available I'll post back. That will test my 'drive train' knowledge just a bit. You offered him a 1350 pinion and never mentioned it being 26 or 29 spline!!! For the ZF you can't assume a TH400 is the same as some suggest! IT AIN'T!! I might have a D44 shaft myself if that's what he's using. I do have a NOS GM for a ZF & D44 but I'm not interested right now for a sale.
#22
It would be very easy for the OP to do a shaft and use 1330 joints, I don't see a 1350 slip-yoke that matches the ZF, I'll look closer later, Many since the ZF OE isn't available and hasn't been for a couple decades use the slip-yoke I've suggested for the ZF and use a 1310/1330 conversion to mate it to the ZF.
@Phobos84 if you've a 1350 forged it could be an easy sell. Does it use straps and bolts or the u-bolts to secure the drive-shaft. I don't ever suggest a buy from Denny's 'NEVER'!!
***If it's 29 spline it could also do likely the D60 & D70. I'd think it an easy sell in your part of the country. Is it boxed still? Do you recall the part #? An invoice from Denny's?
@Phobos84 if you've a 1350 forged it could be an easy sell. Does it use straps and bolts or the u-bolts to secure the drive-shaft. I don't ever suggest a buy from Denny's 'NEVER'!!
***If it's 29 spline it could also do likely the D60 & D70. I'd think it an easy sell in your part of the country. Is it boxed still? Do you recall the part #? An invoice from Denny's?
Last edited by WVZR-1; 06-29-2021 at 04:07 PM.
#24
Thank you everyone for your input and information. i am pretty sure my stock shaft is 27" long. i think i will just put a 2.5" steel in it for now and try and survive the season. thinking this winter a solid axle might be needed as this was "step one" in the build and i couldn't even get 60 feet out of it lol. i do not want to invest into the D44 just to take it apart this winter and start over. probably just run hard tire for right now as well lol.
I do agree i think my driveshaft was compromised somehow and with the new found HP just could not hold up because a u-joint or a half shaft should have went first.
I do agree i think my driveshaft was compromised somehow and with the new found HP just could not hold up because a u-joint or a half shaft should have went first.
#25
#26
Melting Slicks
It would be very easy for the OP to do a shaft and use 1330 joints, I don't see a 1350 slip-yoke that matches the ZF, I'll look closer later, Many since the ZF OE isn't available and hasn't been for a couple decades use the slip-yoke I've suggested for the ZF and use a 1310/1330 conversion to mate it to the ZF.
@Phobos84 if you've a 1350 forged it could be an easy sell. Does it use straps and bolts or the u-bolts to secure the drive-shaft. I don't ever suggest a buy from Denny's 'NEVER'!!
***If it's 29 spline it could also do likely the D60 & D70. I'd think it an easy sell in your part of the country. Is it boxed still? Do you recall the part #? An invoice from Denny's?
@Phobos84 if you've a 1350 forged it could be an easy sell. Does it use straps and bolts or the u-bolts to secure the drive-shaft. I don't ever suggest a buy from Denny's 'NEVER'!!
***If it's 29 spline it could also do likely the D60 & D70. I'd think it an easy sell in your part of the country. Is it boxed still? Do you recall the part #? An invoice from Denny's?
Then I found out that my Dana 44 had a 26 spline. The reason is that when the shop put in 3.73 gears they put in a pinion with 26 splines. So I just ordered another forged yoke for 26 splines an 1350 u joints.
Anyway I was always under the impression that the ZF6 and the 4+3 used the same driveshaft and yoke. Is that not the case?
#27
Race Director
That is an ugly driveshaft. I'm running a steel one in my car. What were your 60' times? I like your name by the way.
#28
Drifting
lol yea this one might get mounted in the shop!
well I didn't think I was pushing that much power. its a 6.0L LQ4 10:1 with 231/242 @ 0.050 with .600" lift cam. figured it would be around the 430CHP mark. ZF6 speed with Nitto 555R2 DR and I launched off a two step at 3500 with 5 degrees of timing pulled. to be fair I wasn't being nice to anything lol!
well I didn't think I was pushing that much power. its a 6.0L LQ4 10:1 with 231/242 @ 0.050 with .600" lift cam. figured it would be around the 430CHP mark. ZF6 speed with Nitto 555R2 DR and I launched off a two step at 3500 with 5 degrees of timing pulled. to be fair I wasn't being nice to anything lol!
#29
no idea on 60 ft times, this happen on the first pass the first time i had the new build to the track. only made it about 10' lol.
#30
#31
Drifting
Mine is a LQ9 6.0 with LS3 heads/intake at about 10.5:1, 220/224 .575/.575 112 cam, 1-7/8" long tube headers, 3" mandrel exhaust, 25% underdrive pulley and a 5spd TKO 600 trans. Made 420 whp on the dyno and with a little more tuning/tweaks it trapped 126 mph which indicates about 435 whp at my weight. 6.0s make really good power with cam upgrades and supporting mods. 500chp is pretty easy.
#32
Safety Car
Hello again Phobos84!
Are those U-joint straps the same as the ones used on the small block C3's? On my 1968 C3 there are machined Blocks in place of the straps and they were done to help with the extra power of the Big blocks. You clearly have the power to need them on that Beast of yours.
Thanks for sharing the pictures with us!
Are those U-joint straps the same as the ones used on the small block C3's? On my 1968 C3 there are machined Blocks in place of the straps and they were done to help with the extra power of the Big blocks. You clearly have the power to need them on that Beast of yours.
Thanks for sharing the pictures with us!
#33
Melting Slicks
Hello again Phobos84!
Are those U-joint straps the same as the ones used on the small block C3's? On my 1968 C3 there are machined Blocks in place of the straps and they were done to help with the extra power of the Big blocks. You clearly have the power to need them on that Beast of yours.
Thanks for sharing the pictures with us!
Are those U-joint straps the same as the ones used on the small block C3's? On my 1968 C3 there are machined Blocks in place of the straps and they were done to help with the extra power of the Big blocks. You clearly have the power to need them on that Beast of yours.
Thanks for sharing the pictures with us!
#34
Mine is a LQ9 6.0 with LS3 heads/intake at about 10.5:1, 220/224 .575/.575 112 cam, 1-7/8" long tube headers, 3" mandrel exhaust, 25% underdrive pulley and a 5spd TKO 600 trans. Made 420 whp on the dyno and with a little more tuning/tweaks it trapped 126 mph which indicates about 435 whp at my weight. 6.0s make really good power with cam upgrades and supporting mods. 500chp is pretty easy.
I am running a LQ4 with about 10:1 compression, 317 heads(shaved 0.030), 231/242 0.600/0.600 113+3, shorty headers (as i cannot find any long tubes that will work) 2.5" mandrel exhaust. Using a C6 Z06 clutch/flywheel attached to the C4 ZF6-40 6-speed.
i have not been able to make a pass with the new setup but my old 383 with a 100 shot NOS ran a 11.9@121 MPH and never had driveline issues lol
#35
Drifting
Yes. 1984 C4.
Best of 11.62 @ 126.33 w/ 2.08 60ft
Last time at the track I also broke my driveshaft. Well, broke a u-joint and ultimately trashed the driveshaft. Broke on the 1-2 shift and didn't get a slip. Dragy showed 1.88 to the 60 though so I likely would have been on pace for an 11.20 or so.
The exhaust might be holding you back some but I would still expect around 400 whp with your setup. Probably an easy 15 hp on the table if you can find a set of long tube headers that will work. Mine has a cheap set of C5 headers that are reworked at the collector to fit. Regularly found on Ebay or Amazon for $200-$300.
Best of 11.62 @ 126.33 w/ 2.08 60ft
Last time at the track I also broke my driveshaft. Well, broke a u-joint and ultimately trashed the driveshaft. Broke on the 1-2 shift and didn't get a slip. Dragy showed 1.88 to the 60 though so I likely would have been on pace for an 11.20 or so.
The exhaust might be holding you back some but I would still expect around 400 whp with your setup. Probably an easy 15 hp on the table if you can find a set of long tube headers that will work. Mine has a cheap set of C5 headers that are reworked at the collector to fit. Regularly found on Ebay or Amazon for $200-$300.
#36
Melting Slicks
I was warned that 'Dead Hooking' a C4 with stock a rear rwould only lead to a lot of aluminum scrap, it did. Broke everything behind the flywheel at some point until installing a 9".
Last edited by hookedup; 06-30-2021 at 05:00 PM.
#37
Mine is a LQ9 6.0 with LS3 heads/intake at about 10.5:1, 220/224 .575/.575 112 cam, 1-7/8" long tube headers, 3" mandrel exhaust, 25% underdrive pulley and a 5spd TKO 600 trans. Made 420 whp on the dyno and with a little more tuning/tweaks it trapped 126 mph which indicates about 435 whp at my weight. 6.0s make really good power with cam upgrades and supporting mods. 500chp is pretty easy.
Yes. 1984 C4.
Best of 11.62 @ 126.33 w/ 2.08 60ft
Last time at the track I also broke my driveshaft. Well, broke a u-joint and ultimately trashed the driveshaft. Broke on the 1-2 shift and didn't get a slip. Dragy showed 1.88 to the 60 though so I likely would have been on pace for an 11.20 or so.
The exhaust might be holding you back some but I would still expect around 400 whp with your setup. Probably an easy 15 hp on the table if you can find a set of long tube headers that will work. Mine has a cheap set of C5 headers that are reworked at the collector to fit. Regularly found on Ebay or Amazon for $200-$300.
Best of 11.62 @ 126.33 w/ 2.08 60ft
Last time at the track I also broke my driveshaft. Well, broke a u-joint and ultimately trashed the driveshaft. Broke on the 1-2 shift and didn't get a slip. Dragy showed 1.88 to the 60 though so I likely would have been on pace for an 11.20 or so.
The exhaust might be holding you back some but I would still expect around 400 whp with your setup. Probably an easy 15 hp on the table if you can find a set of long tube headers that will work. Mine has a cheap set of C5 headers that are reworked at the collector to fit. Regularly found on Ebay or Amazon for $200-$300.
Thats a pretty good time especially with a 2.06 short time. my best run was a 11.97@121 with a 1.8 short. that was with the old 383 SBC though.
#38
yup i believe that, the tires hooked for sure and the engine did not give up lol. looking at the data it only bogged the engine about 500 RPM. of course the driveshaft probably helped keep the RPM up some lol.
#39
Thanks
#40
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
383vette, rklsdriver c409, and tpi 421 vette should all have good pics/knowledge of the solid axle conversion. Note, though, that rklsdriver went into the 9's, I believe, on his IRS before switching.