B84RADR

So I'm building an engine from scratch, and with a whole bunch of options. Recently, I saw this engine with these specs from A. R. Racing on eBay that I think look good, and part of the purpose of my 383 post was so that I could compare what you guys like to use to these guys.

Now here's the chance to have tremendous influence on what I pick. If you could take a quick gander at the list below and see if there are things that you think should stay or go, would you do me the favor of letting me know which parts and why? I owe you tremendous thanks in advance becuase ultimately this knowledge saves hard earned money. :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

SBC 383 Stroker Chevy Engine

440 hp @ 5800 RPM 445 ft. lbs torque 5200 RPM
Valued at: $4,875 - Retail cost (he's asking $2995 + $200 shipping)

Machine Work
Select Hi Tin 4 bolt main block ... $300
Mag Check-preasure check ... $40
Hot Tank - Jet Wash .... $50
Bore Torque Plate Hone ... $125 Torque Pute Gives True Finish
Clearance block - 383 - crank... $450
Clearance profile rods... $45
Dynamic balance assembly.. $125
File fit rings - blue print clearance... $90
Press - pistons to rods... $45
Install cam bearings - freeze plugs... $45
Port blue print cylinder heads... $600
Final assemble full rotating and top end
Parts including final torque - clearance - and geometry of all parts... $250

All new Performance Internal Parts
Eagle steel crank - standard sizes - External bal... $399
Speed Pro/Keith Black - Hyperutetics 9.8 to 1 pistons... $249
Childs & Albert - Dura Moly File Fit Rings... $109.99
Durabond - cam bearings... $49.99
GM - Pink rods. 5140 steel... $199
ARP - wavelock - rod bolts... $49.99
Clevite- tri-metal bearings - rod and main... $99.99
Custom-ground hydraulic cam-lifter... $149.99
Cloyes - true roller set... $59.99
Comp - cams cam locks... $4.99
Comp - cams XE pushrods... $69.99
Dyna gear - oil pump... $29.99
Dyna gear - pickup... $9.99
Dyna gear - steel drive... $19.99
After market - oil pan... $69.99
After market - timing cover... $19.99
Edel brock - RPM dual plane intake... $124.99
Pioneer - head bolds... $49.99
ARP/Pioneer - rocker studs 3/8... $29.99
Fel Pro - gasket sets... $89.99
GM - Perf balancer - non sfi... $99.99
Power Making Featured Parts
New part Iron Eagle - 200 CC - 64 CC heads. Stage 1 port. Bowls blended... $999
Features - Bronze guids - screw in studs - comp cams matching value train - retainers spring and locks - 2.02/1.60 stainless valves.
Crane - roller tip rockers - 1.6 ratio... $129.99
Custom-group - by comp cams
Features - 110 center lin 488 - 495 lift corrected 1.6 ratio = 520/528 lift. 230 dur @ 050 excellent low end power with lopey. Idle previously priced.
Edelbrock - RPM intake dual plane very good RPM match up

Total parts and labor value = $4,878 average retail cost
You could spend more by building on your own!

Years use - any street rod. Also, 55 thru 92 Chevy application. Excellent muscle car replacement engine.
Characteristics - 100% pump gas - very streetable. East fit straight plus application. All mounting holes.


According to this guy, it's using street gas. I wonder if it could pass emissions. I just want the most powerful engine under $3000 that will pass emissions. I understand that I should NOT have compression over about 10 to 1 or emissions could be an issue.

TIA gentlemen!
Shayne




[Modified by sspackman, 1:03 PM 12/15/2002]

gtsyellow

it's very hard to come by a engine under 3g's making any power. does he mean you have to pay extra for the listed options or? all of that stuff was nessasary on the machine work.

also his prices on parts are rather high & i question what he knows about parts, at least GM, the pink rods are powdered metal. if one fails it shatters, 5140 is a steel commonly used in forging like the eagle rods i'm using are 5140, it just bends if you fail one.


[Modified by gtsyellow, 2:45 PM 12/15/2002]

B84RADR

He meant that everything listed was at $2995. I'm getting the feeling that maybe the parts are cheaper and that's why it's looking more like a good deal from what you just said... Or maybe I read that completely wrong!


[Modified by sspackman, 5:03 PM 12/15/2002]

gtsyellow

if he only wants $2995 for a whole 383 and it's assembled correctly your getting a good deal. email him and ask if he will provide a bearing clearance and ring end gap sheet. your getting quite a bit of power for your buck.

B84RADR

Done! We'll see if he responds back.

Shayne

B84RADR

Here was his response to my post:

every street engine 2 thousands rod main # 5 is .0025 ring top .026 2nd .016 std tension oil.depends on location for time in transit.It took longtime to send to germany customs held longtime right during 911.alaska took time too.most cases have been 5 days infact over 200 have been sent under week.you need it overnite can be arranged.adds to cost.

What can I gather from this? It's like reading a foreign language right now, but it will get better as I get into it. I'm just not sure what I'm reading here. I also asked about this working with my TPI for my 85 and he said:

for tpi cam change good idea we can arrange ,mark

So far so good I think. You guys are the real experts on how to interpret this!

Thanks :p: :p: :p: :p: :p:

gtsyellow

sounds good to me, i'll tell ya that much. where does germany come in though :confused:

B84RADR

In looking through his eBay feedback, I asked him why some people that have bought engines from him have had to wait so long to get them, in some cases over 3 months. I guess that was his way of telling me why.


[Modified by sspackman, 6:45 AM 12/16/2002]

jadedvette

For a TPI engine the cam has a little too much duration and lobe center, and as far as pump gas is concerened, with alum. heads (listed are iron) you can go to 10.5 to 1 with no trouble. 9.8 to 1 with iron should be ok. It sounds like a great deal, can you check with someone who got one of his engines already to see if they like it? Good luck, Joe

gtsyellow

is that a roller cam or flat tappet, it's a hair large for TPI if it's a roller but it's right on if it's a flat tappet.

lcvette

a question... are you rebuilding your block or a new block? if your rebuilding a new block, i would opt for a roller block, this will add a little more cost, but in the long run if your gonna spend the money, you might as well go a little further and get somehting that will optimize anything you do to it. some say more moving parts in a motor are bad, i feel opposite, roller lifters reduce heat, wear, and power loss, and a late model TPI block is not that much more, you may just have to hunt a little more. on ebay, i have seen numerous complete LT1 motors with accessories and ECM and wiring harness, for around 1300-1600.... you could almost refresh one of these motors into a 383 for what your looking at in the other, and its fuel injected which means better emmissions, fuel economy, etc.. just another suggestion, these also included a 4l60E tranny which is computer controlled and should plop right in your car.. again just a thought! good luck with it!

Chris

h rocks

I'm not impressed with the quality of the reciprocating parts he's offering. I guess it's priced commensurately. Iron heads? Low CR? For a "reasonably priced", slam dunk 420-440 Hp & ~ 500lbs/ft Tq, look at a typical 383 with an LPE 211 or 219 cam. (or a close Comp clone for less) You can get a set of used alum D port heads, port and rebuild them. Look at a Scat forged reciprocating assembly. For that HP/Tq range you can get away with I beam rods. They have SRP floater pistons and many others as part of the kit. You can probably find a tired '87+ up L98 and use it for your block and heads. Just another option. Good luck!


[Modified by h rocks, 10:57 PM 12/16/2002]

gtsyellow

i agree with h rocks, it's just you'll spend nearly double $3000 for a completely done engine like that. machine work alone from a world class shop approaches $2000. as the old saying goes....you get what you pay for.