DTE Powertrain

We are pleased to announce the release of a new component for the LT1-LT4 engine platform that replaces the weak, failure prone GM Optispark Distributer.

We have targeted and corrected 10 different areas of weakness of the OEM unit and applied those refinements to our high performance billet distributer...DynaSpark.

Complete details can be seen here by following the "What's New" link http://www.dynotech-eng.com







Regards,
DynoTech Engineering Inc.




[Modified by DynoTech Engineering, 10:36 PM 12/5/2002]

FoolCrzy

Sweet! Too :cool: ..
:cheers:

Goody

I don't mean to be too ****, but why only a 12m/12k warranty if it is such a good product, at double the cost? (My price is based on Jeff Kopps, not my local dealer). I like the idea of it, but I want a better guarantee it isn't going to crap out at 15K-25K miles...

Tom Piper

Looks like a nice unit.

Since all my problems with the OEM Opti-Spark have been carbon tracking of the cap (there was never any moisture in mine), I am interested in how the internals prevent cross-firing that ultimately leads to carbon-tracking. I view this as the weakest link in the OEM Opti-Spark.

My suggestion is to make a unit that can re-direct (distribute) the ECM produced low-voltage signal (that normally goes to the coil in the LT1) that can trigger an external multi-coil setup similar to the ZR1 (4 coil waste spark method) or the LS1 (8 coil, one per cylinder). By taking the high voltage out of the Opti-Spark, it becomes much more reliable.
I envision an Opti-Spark that takes the single low-voltage ECM signal that normally goes to the coil and, by a photo-coupled device driven by the shaft from where the rotor normally goes on, re-directs that signal to the correct external coil to fire the appropriate plug. Since everything inside this Opti-Spark would be low-voltage and optically coupled, it should last until the bearing wears out.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 8:36 AM 12/6/2002]

Corvette0096

:cool:

lead_foot

ttt
How about a GP price for the forum members? :)

steve40th

My new Opti is already going, less than 2 kmiles, stutering at off idle, no codes.
A longer warranty would be nice, but a GP purchase for a better product would be awesome. High RPM use? ie 6500-7000 rpm? millions of questions to come.

DTE Powertrain

Very good question Goody, but let me ask you this.

When was the last time you received a warranty on an electrical component for this amount of time, that you purchased to install yourself?

The product itself is of excellent quality and durability, but the internal electrical components are still susceptable to damage from misuse or incorrect installation causing premature failure.

We are not in control of the product's installation, therefore it may be electrically connected improperly causing immediate failure. We do not blame the consumer, we just cover it under the alotted warranty. It is a calculated risk that we as a company are willing to assume when offering a warranty of this type for electrically operated components. The bottom line is that we want to provide the best possible customer service and support for the duration the product ownership.

Ultimately, we still adhere to the "honor system" somewhat. If you purchase the product and it fails for some reason, we'll take care of you and replace or repair it under warranty.

If YOU damage it in someway on your end installing it, than we would repair/replace the damaged component at your expense. The honor system is a two way street.

We are comfortable with the members of the Corvette Forum and the integrity of most of its' people, so we should'nt have any problem in this area.

Regards,
DTE

ShawnZR-1

I have two questions:
1. On the web site, it says for 1995 and 1996 model LT1's and LT4's. Is there a difference other than the vacuum setup that would prevent it from operating on a 1992-1994 LT1?

2. How many miles do you have on your "test" subjects to date? What is the life expectancy under normal operations and "correct installation"?

It really looks like a quality piece of equipment!

Tom Piper

A nice feature of the DynoTech unit is it looks like it comes with all the electrical cables and vacuum harness. This way, if you are converting an early LT1, you don't have to buy these items -- they are already there.
For those who are upgrading an early LT1 from the older Opti-Spark, this may save you some money.

Plus, from the images, it seems like they have sealed the unit around the elecrical connectors well -- in fact, I am betting that is why it comes with the electrical harness in place...so it is sealed well.

Tom Piper

DTE Powertrain

Here is a link to a site where we have been dicussing this product for awhile. You may find some of your initial questions answered here.
http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/for...um_Title=Intro

Tom- We already have in the works an ignition system that is based on the DynaSpark design platform that utilizes LS1 CNP ignition coils. It will also be a plug and play kit as well. Cost?......not sure yet.

Lead Foot- We would be open to a group purchase. What do you suggest?

Steve- We have found an increase in engine performance and RPM through better ignition control at the reluctor wheel/photo emitter level. Currently, our Corvette has easily spun to 6400 RPM w/ out issue or misfire.

I attended the PRI Show at Indy yesterday and spoke at length to MSD, Accel and an independant ignition parts manufacturer to try to get them to manufacture us a high RPM (7000 +) ignition cap and rotor. The conversation ended positively and we will speak with them again after the show to discuss logistics.

92shawnster- Yes, there is a difference from Gen I to Gen II. We are working on the Gen I now and it should be out very soon.

I'm uncertain on the total miles logged so far, but we have three units in beta testing on three different vehicles, operating in vastly different environments for the last month and a half and we have not experienced any problems thus far. We've been very pleased with its' performance and it has done better then we had expected initially.

Regards,
DTE

Goody

Yes there is a difference. Actually, there are three different LT1 timing covers. The early style has the small hole on it where the cam to OPTI gear is, the GEN2 has a larger hole on the front, GEN3 has the larger hole and the crank sensor hole at the bottom of it for the OBDII requirements. Timing chain gears are different between the two designs as well.

If I am wrong, someone please correct me.

don hall

Since the question posed by 92Shawnster has not been answered, I will ask it again:
Why aren't the LT1 '92 - '94 vettes included?

Nathan Plemons

Well I guess I'll just answer it for the manufacturer. The 92-94 uses a completely different drive mech. and by it's design alone it is much harder to make it seal. It is also not vented. Since most people with the earlier style will upgrade to the newer style anyway eventually it probably wouldn't ever return their investment to make one for the earlier style.

Personally I upgraded to the new style some time ago, not that I believe it's any better, honestly I feel like it's the inferior design, but I had to because I went with a double roller timing chain. That makes it easy for me to use this new piece which seems like it would have the better construction benefits of the early style along with the venting benefits of the newer style along with the sealing / durability benefits of the new design.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

don hall

Thanks for the informative response, Nathan.

Tom Piper

I've read these links.
I am very interested in this "external coil pack" Opti-Spark. On the issue of timing problems stacking up, if the original single ECM output (that signal is simply enabled to the appropriate coil by means of a Optical Sensor mounted where the rotor is now) is used for all the coils, the timing will not change from stock. Think of it like the additional Optical senser is a gate for the original ECM timing signal that only allows the ECM timing pulse to pass through to one coil at a time.
To me, the difficult part is having 8 additional low-voltage wires coming from the Opti-Spark -- this would require connecting these individual wires to the correct coil.

Plus, to keep the cost down, there are several engines today that have multi-coil packs. By designing it to use an existing coil pack, you could just sell the enhanced Opti-Spark unit, and allow the end-user to buy new coil pack or get one from a salvage yard -- just a suggestion. The reason I say this is I can easily see where a unit like this could cost a couple of grand with coils and everything.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 12:45 PM 12/6/2002]

Goody

Thanks for the response. But the last electrical item I bought for my car (not including headlights) was my LIFETIME warrantied Altenator. Those can be installed wrong just like the OPTI. Much easier if you ask me because there are more mistakes possible with an alternator then an OPTI unit.

Nathan Plemons

One question I've got. You claim it's rebuildable. Alright, fair enough, how much to rebuild it, and I assume this is a user rebuild rather than something that would need to sent to you?

I will say that I'm impressed, it looks very nice and I like the way the top cable is sealed, I had one corrode right there and cost me many hours of chasing and headaches. I assume that there is some kind of durable gasket between the CNC'd piece and the actual cap? I'm just interested in what all parts are replaceable and what kind of cost we would be looking at there.

If I didn't already have a brand new opti I wouldn't hessitate to try one. I still probably won't hessitate to try one, just not right away.

Zora

I would like to know the same :yesnod:

DTE Powertrain

Nathan,

The cost of the rebuild will be less than half of the cost of the component when purchased new.

Yes there is a gasket/seal between the cap and the case.

One could rebuild the unit himself, but you must understand, as with anything that is manufactured as a precision component, certain proprietary chemicals, sealants and assembly procedures must be utilized to bring the component back up to level of performance when it was purchased new.

Replacing the cap and rotor are very easy and one could do it in an afternoon. Rebuilding the internal components may be very challenging for someone who is somewhat inexperienced and not mechanically inclined, due to the tools and procedures that are needed to disassemble the internal components.

As part of our customer support, we will provide a referbishing service for free (to the original purchaser) for those who do not wish to tackle it themselves. All that you have to do is send us the part and pay for the replacement parts and we'll absorb the labor costs.

By choosing this route, you will get another 12 month/12,000 mile warranty from the date of the rebuild kit purchase AND a newly rebuilt unit.

Under most normal circumstances, a normal rebuild should be performed at approx. 50,000 miles or so. They could go longer, but optimum engine performance will be achieved with a new cap and rotor assy. from time to time. While your that far, why not rebuild the whole thing while it is off the engine.

Regards,
DTE