Tom400CFI

No, a cam most certainly does NOT "need" long tubes. Especially in the case of a car with an already efficient exhaust. That post is implying that a cam won't work (meet goals) w/o headers and that is pure BFS.

Tom400CFI

After monolith catalytic converters came along, there weren't many (if any) cars that had a worse exhaust system than the 3rd Gen F-body. From the head flange to the tail pipes, the entire system was total, restrictive garbage. And I picked up a full second with only a cam. I'd have picked up another full second with LT headers, good Y, cat and cat back...but that would have cost another $1000 (back then). I paid ~$100.00 and got a full second/9mph...it worked damn good, even w/o headers. Cam only isn't ideal...but it works.

bjankuski

i agree with this thought, my opinion is start with the headers and then do the cam. Do both.

wildbill ws6/ss

a cam will not be nearly as effective without long tubes. Anyone who knows anything knows that much. Get out of here bro. Not a chance I'm installing a cam without long tubes and exhaust first.

Tom400CFI

No ****? REALLY? Did I say otherwise? No I didn't, so GTF out of here, "Bro".

What I said was (pay attention, here)....
Of course a cam (and heads, and intake, and....) will work better with headers. Of course. But a cam will also work (make gains) without headers, too. Not as much gain, but potentially a big gain, and especially, a big gain for the $$. The OP doesn't sound like he can afford both at the same time. Will the cam alone, help? Damn right it will. Should he add headers when he can? Sure he should, but the cam alone will work.

CharlieNC

I read in Vizard's SBC book that porting and polishing internals of the cast iron exhaust manifold provided 2/3 the hp as long tube headers. An outfit ( I think CA) does this for $369, including slurry honing. Nice sleeper touch and no installation headaches.

bscot968

I’ve some experience modifying the C4 LT’s, my current car is a 96 LT4 coupe. The old adage about “how much power do you want, how much money do you have” is quite true. I have always encouraged the package approach and don’t half *** stuff. I encourage guys to be patient and PUT SOME MONEY ASIDE. Be cognizant of thinking air in, air out. I recommend doing a “package” approach because people are often disappointed with the power from a single mod like headers. If you’ve a stock engine, recognize there are certain constraints. I would start with air box/cleaner, TB, good quality shorty headers and cat., and a stainless exhaust from a reputable manufacturer. Then, very importantly, find a tuner with some experience on the OBD2. Doing these mods together will have a more satisfying seat-of-the pants feel. The next “package” is to do a cam with the appropriate intake and heads porting. Putting a big cam in a stock engine is kinda dumb because of the inefficiency/restriction of the other stock components, you leave lots of HP behind and burn a lot more fuel. Good luck with your project!

LUDS 96

Went with the gears. Dana 44 swap found a stock 3.54 setup. Ten years love it.

mtwoolford

It's called an LT4 Hot Cam for a reason. A Hot Cam kit will give you everything you need, springs and cam, Reuse the stock 1.6 roller rockers and roller lifters, Spring for some new valve stem seals and you're good to go. Your not gonna get more bang for your buck. When I did my Hot Cam in my LT4 I also sprang for a set of new lifters and a new timing chain. As close to a true "drop in" as you're gonna get..