weedwhacker

Hey guys need some help. I’m new to gm world so trying to find the right cam and associated parts is making my head hurt. Can someone tell me a good street cam and 1.6 rockers rods springs and lifters I should buy? Link me perhaps? Pulling the heads on my 1994 to have sent off to be cleaned and going to reseal the motor up. Going to get a timing set and possibly have the block sent off as well. Will never race the car just daily it

aklim

I'd pass on the cam. There are so many places to make improvements on the L98. Unfortunately, intakes and headers with a dyno tune won't be as sexy as a cam swap but will probably yield more than a stockish cam with a stock tune on a stock motor.

STL94LT1

^^^ 1994 was an LT1 not L98. If you are only going to do a camshaft maybe look at the GMPP Hotcam.

Pwnage1337

**** a hot cam home boy, that **** is 30 year old technology.

Get on some new lobe design **** and make some power

aklim

My bad. Maybe a more aggressive cam that produces better results with a set of headers and a tune? Wouldn't you be limiting yourself with a Hotcam and a stock tune vs a more aggressive cam with a dyno tune to match? It would cost the same to install either way.

STL94LT1

Is the car an auto or manual trans? If it is an auto can't go much more aggressive than the Hot Cam with the stock converter. Also, he is saying it's a daily driver.

aklim

Many are running more than what a hotcam can provide as a daily driver. My 383 is a daily driver. It drives in the rain, shine, night, winter, etc. Only time it won't drive is in the snow.

STL94LT1

Okay you win, I'm not hear to argue. Was just giving my opinion on what little information was given.

weedwhacker

When I say daily driver I mean take it out and enjoy it. This is my fifth car so it won’t get a whole lot of driving but it will see trips to run errands, take kid to school maybe use to commute 2 hours for work.

What are some some of the newer cams to check out. It’s also an auto car but it’s getting the 4l60e refreshed and going with a 2800 stall.

drcook

The stock computer can deal with the Hot Cam from everything I have read. More than that requires the ECM be tuned.

I don't know how many tuners are left down the OP's way in Columbus Oh, south on 71 from me, but up here in the Akron area, not too many. There is PCMforLess here that is within driving distance of Columbus.

You will have to add that to the cost if you go more aggressive.

aklim

I'd really check with someone who will re-tune your chip and ask them what stall and what cam.

aklim

From what I read, you are right. It does seem like a waste to me to hobble yourself with a cam that is so similar to the stock system but the cost to install is the same

bjankuski

There us nothing wrong with the hother cam, it will give a nice boost and still be daily drivable. You could call the tech line at comp cams and discuss options with them.

93 ragtop

Considering all that will go with it, (cost wise) I would go with a hotcam..... But with any cam, you are going to need, at a mim. new springs....
One of the advantages of the hotcam is, since it has been used in so many vettes, a mail order tune from someone such as pcmforless will be very accurate, and much cheaper then a dyno tune. And IMO you should get it tuned.

I had the hotcam, a set of hand ported heads, headers, stock exhaust, and IMO optimized drivetrain. (4.10 gears, 3000 stall converter., light weight wheels, slicks) The car went a best of 117.3 mph with a 11.71 ET
I always hear these rumors of better cam, etc. But have yet to see it. Now I know there are cams that can make more power, but they are at the cost of driveablilty......

jayjones

I got really into the weeds with cam discussions for LT1. Terms like hot cam and small cam and big cam are misleading. Our engines don't have variable cam timing and no forced induction, so anything you gain from duration in one area of the RPM range, you're going to lose in another area. Some bonus gains come from extra lift via lobe or rocker geometry, but in my opinion it's not worth the cost/effort of a cam swap. I'm generalizing quite a bit, and there are plenty of sweet-spots in cam timing that would increase performance but you will need ECU tuning and likely fail emissions.

If you're planning to pull them anyway why not upgrade heads and cam together? If it's because of cost, then don't bother with just a cam swap, figure out a real build plan and execute it when you can.

vette196

Call Lloyd Elliott at elliottsportworks.com

LT1 guru, who will help guide you on what you need to achieve your goals

aklim

My guess is that you can gain a little more with headers AND still be streetable. Do you think that we can get a better cam to justify the expense (new springs, lifters, install cost, etc) but have to sacrifice that much in drivability? I think the slight loss, if set up right would be hardly noticeable.

Kevova

1994-96 is a reflash meaning no chips. There is software to DIY PCM tuning. Hot Cam 25 year old tech for an engine long obsolete. If Lloyd Elliott is the plan; they can suggest cam and possibly a tune or tuner for your combination. IMO gears will get SOTP performance than engine build.

weedwhacker

Can we stop discussing how much the oem cam is better then anything aftermarket. I’m not new to modifier cars only American pushrod v8’s. I come from German cars.

This 94 coupe I bought has a bad lifter. So I’m going to pull the heads and have them cleaned up at the local engine builder here. I’m a while I’m in there sort of guy so I figured cam, timing set, springs and rockers, lifters and pushrods. Optispark isn’t having any issues currently so it will remain. Water pump in newer so it doesn’t need addressing. Once I drop the oil pan I’ll check the rod bearings and if it needs it I’ll bring the block and have it addressed. I’ll obviously have it flashed once I have all the parts. I tune all my bmws.

I basically am looking for buy this cam, these springs, these rockers etc. as it’s so vague what fits when looking.

93 ragtop

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

My guess is that you can gain a little more with headers AND still be streetable. Do you think that we can get a better cam to justify the expense (new springs, lifters, install cost, etc) but have to sacrifice that much in drivability? I think the slight loss, if set up right would be hardly noticeable.

If you go back and look at old post, there used to be several who picked up 30 to 40 rwhp with the cam change. (hotcam)
In my case, I did long tube headers, hand ported heads and hotcam all at the same time. I lost no bottom end, and picked up a lot of mid range as well at more top end....
The hotcam , heads, and headers made 365 hp, and 370 tq.

This is just a suggestion, but if you do decide to do heads as well, instead of porting the ones you have, I would look at new afr heads....
Porting your existing heads sounds cheap, until they get into them and find bad guides, seats etc. and then those charges are on top of the porting cost. Also, you will likely have shipping both directions. I learned this the hard way....


One last point, the hotcam is old tech.? How many new ways are out there to grind a cam?
Again, instead of saying its old and dont work, post up what is better. (with proof)