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I like what you're doing from the sounds. You know I built a Kart on a budget, don't you? Mine's not "done" yet...it probably never will be "done"...but I've gotten far enough with it that it's road legal and made it through it's first auto-x event.
Why not a summit or jegs cam? They're like 60$ iirc. They aren't the best but you could probably find something that would work and then you don't have to worry about a used cam.
Flat. I am looking at the jegs and summit offereings, will see what the budget numbers look like. Its hard to build an autocross car that will do 11s in the quarter for $2000 but im getting tbere.
The cam is the heart of the motor. Make sure you use the one you want. It'll make or break your project and they are really not too expensive. I would be apprehensive using a used flat tappet cam. It has mated to a set of lifters that you no longer have and may not last.
The cam is the heart of the motor. Make sure you use the one you want. It'll make or break your project and they are really not too expensive. I would be apprehensive using a used flat tappet cam. It has mated to a set of lifters that you no longer have and may not last.
I would never install an used a flat tappet cam; especially when the original, matched lifters weren't available
So, my engine builder (the guy im getting the parts from) has all but refused to "waste good parts on that cam" becouse "you could make that kind of power with cast junk" so we are waiting until we can use a cam with at least .500 lift and a bunch more duration.
Ive just picked up (almost for free) a set of brodix T1 215 CC heads with multiple holes from the runners into the spring seat. They were at one time epoxied but part of the epoxy came loose and did a little damage.
I havd a plan to fix them almost free... Between the two this will no longer be a street car that gets raced on weekends...
Measured the block today. It is undecked and standard. That is good becouse we thought it was decked and my pistons were going to be .005 out of the hole and we were going to need to run a thicker gasket.
I will post a few of my part pics.
Here is the broken part of my Dana44 i traded my D36 and a few random parts for it. It came with an adjustable roll bar. Extra long wheel studs and stainless brake lines.
i actuay drove from michigan to VA to pick up some "free" parts from a forum member and ended up scoreing this D44 for a great price for my friend chucks project (crazier than mine) but after doing the reasearch he decided his truck would never hook up hard enougj to break a 36, so he offered me the trade before i even got back from the trip and before he knew about the extras. Ive been quoted $50 for the weld and then we are going to epoxy in some sleves for the bolts and fill the rest of the spaces where it mounts. Should be stronger than stock.
My wheels. 19x11 rear with some masive, almost new tires (one of them has a gash in tbe tread) 18x8.5 fronts with almost no tread.
I drove to Detroit to pick these up for $200 they have lots of road rash but still roll true.
at some point one of the rears was mounted with spacers, when the spacer broke i
the fender put a big slash in the tire and there were multiple gashes out of the mounting surface of the wheel.
W knocked off the high parts and will fill the divots with epoxy.
these will be my skinnies for drag racing and my full time rears.
I have one zr1 replica wheel with a little damage that i got for free with a bit of damage. Still looking for anouther crap zr1 replica if anyone has a single
Here is the broken part of my Dana44 i traded my D36 and a few random parts for it. Ive been quoted $50 for the weld and then we are going to epoxy in some sleves for the bolts and fill the rest of the spaces where it mounts. Should be stronger than stock.
The one in my 'Vette Kart was broken much the same way. I just TIG welded it and it's been fine so far.
11-23-2018, 12:21 AM
