C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

no power/pulse to injectors. Please Help

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Old 11-16-2017, 07:18 PM
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nmay
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Originally Posted by aklim
I suppose one injector could short out a bank but both banks? It should run like crap with one bank, shouldn't it? Ask me how I know.
what do you think about the injector short? will that keep me from getting power to all 8? what if i have two shorted injectors, one on each bank which could shut both banks down?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
so your saying if one of the injectors shorts out, it will kill power to all 8?
At least 4. They are all in bank 1 or bank 2 which is why you have 2 fuses. IIRC they are all hot and the ECM commands them to fire by grounding the circuit. Regardless of which order, if you are in a bank with a dead injector or a break in the circuit, I don't think it will fire.

While we are here, why don't you carefully follow the injector wires and see that there is no break. I had a short caused by the valve cover crimping the wire and it would run but like crap. Because it was the left side, there was no fuel going to the left side and the O2 read lean. That caused it to dump fuel on the right side. Think of your brain. If you get damage on the left, the right side of the body doesn't work.
Old 11-16-2017, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
At least 4. They are all in bank 1 or bank 2 which is why you have 2 fuses. IIRC they are all hot and the ECM commands them to fire by grounding the circuit. Regardless of which order, if you are in a bank with a dead injector or a break in the circuit, I don't think it will fire.

While we are here, why don't you carefully follow the injector wires and see that there is no break. I had a short caused by the valve cover crimping the wire and it would run but like crap. Because it was the left side, there was no fuel going to the left side and the O2 read lean. That caused it to dump fuel on the right side. Think of your brain. If you get damage on the left, the right side of the body doesn't work.
i looked at the wires carfully, everything looks good. so your saying if i have a dead injector or more, the harnesses for that bank wont pulse?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Is the security light on? Is the gear in correct position? If the gearshift is out the system will not allow you to start. I would think that there would be a code if VATS disabled the car. Try cranking again in 15 minutes and see that the shifter is in neutral or park
yes the security light is on. the gear is in park, i also tried in neutral. i just tried to crank it again. the starter just clicks now. i think the battery might be dead and i cant charge it till tomorrow. i noticed the other day the my dash kinda shows like its in the driving gear but im in park. my dash lights have going out on and off so i didnt think the drive grear light was real reliable. the d light isnt lit up that much but i see it over the other gear position lights
Old 11-16-2017, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
i looked at the wires carfully, everything looks good. so your saying if i have a dead injector or more, the harnesses for that bank wont pulse?
Probably not. Ohm all the injectors
Old 11-16-2017, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
yes the security light is on. the gear is in park, i also tried in neutral. i just tried to crank it again. the starter just clicks now. i think the battery might be dead and i cant charge it till tomorrow. i noticed the other day the my dash kinda shows like its in the driving gear but im in park. my dash lights have going out on and off so i didnt think the drive grear light was real reliable. the d light isnt lit up that much but i see it over the other gear position lights
We're done. No battery, no deal. Charge it to full and then keep a tender on it when you are not cranking. That takes A LOT of juice.
Old 11-16-2017, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Probably not. Ohm all the injectors
whats the correct reading for the ohm test on the injectors.?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
We're done. No battery, no deal. Charge it to full and then keep a tender on it when you are not cranking. That takes A LOT of juice.
tender? you mean charger right?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
whats the correct reading for the ohm test on the injectors.?
About 16 ohms but I'd be more concerned if one or more was way out on a bank
Old 11-16-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
tender? you mean charger right?
I want to say that the charger dumps a lot of power to get it to full charge ASAP while the trickle charger or tender is a slow charger to maintain it at full charge.
Old 11-16-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
About 16 ohms but I'd be more concerned if one or more was way out on a bank
what do you mean "way out on a bank" like it should read no where near that if its out?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
what do you mean "way out on a bank" like it should read no where near that if its out?
Say everyone on that bank (left or right) is about 16 ohms except for this one that is at 5 ohms, it would be way out. OTOH, if everyone is 16 and this one is 15.9, probably not so worried.
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I want to say that the charger dumps a lot of power to get it to full charge ASAP while the trickle charger or tender is a slow charger to maintain it at full charge.
i dont have an actual batter charger. i just jump it off of another car
Old 11-16-2017, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
i dont have an actual batter charger. i just jump it off of another car
Sure you can but that won't do anything. It is pretty empty so you need to bring it up to spec. You aren't going to keep them connected and keep the car running for a couple hours, are you?
Old 11-16-2017, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Sure you can but that won't do anything. It is pretty empty so you need to bring it up to spec. You aren't going to keep them connected and keep the car running for a couple hours, are you?
i actually have been yes. i was going to buy a new battery but i thought it would be pointless unless i get the car running or i will just drain the new battery. if you were a poor man like myself, would you buy a new battery before moving on?
Old 11-16-2017, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
i actually have been yes. i was going to buy a new battery but i thought it would be pointless unless i get the car running or i will just drain the new battery. if you were a poor man like myself, would you buy a new battery before moving on?
I don't know how rich you think I am or how poor you think you are but nobody stays rich forever by throwing away money on unnecessary things. Sooner or later, the money runs out and you are poor.

I wouldn't go buying a new battery until I am certain it is bad. See if Batteries Plus Bulbs will change it up for you. You need to have it charged up to test if it holds a charge or not. If not, you need a new one. If you went out buying batteries everytime you ran it down, well......
Old 11-16-2017, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nmay
what do you think about the injector short? will that keep me from getting power to all 8? what if i have two shorted injectors, one on each bank which could shut both banks down?
I would think so! a short will most likely cause the injector driver circuit in the ECM to shut down, but the Odds of this are pretty remote.. Here is a short video that John from FIC posted on How to test your Injectors. Watch the Video, test your injectors and report back.

You also need to get your Battery Charged up, troubleshooting with a low Battery can be problematic.

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To no power/pulse to injectors. Please Help

Old 11-17-2017, 09:48 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by nmay
i tested it for codes. i Got three 12s then the anti lock light came on and then got another three 12s. and now my car wont turn over at all. what did i do? i also tried clearing the codes after this and the anti lock light still comes on and the car doesnt turn over still.
So the anti-lock system is just something else to work on later but you got 12-12-12 pause 12-12-12 which means no codes and a nominally working ECM. I don't think it will throw a code for an injector driver transistor if the injector fuses are blown.
Old 11-17-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I suppose one injector could short out a bank but both banks? It should run like crap with one bank, shouldn't it? Ask me how I know.
I had 2 shorted out Injectors on the same bank and the car would not start.

I omh'ed all the Injectors and those 2 bad ones were way out of the range.

I ended up putting in 8 new ones.

Vic
Old 11-17-2017, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nmay
i dont have an actual batter charger. i just jump it off of another car
Charge the battery fully.

Vic


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