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thanks! And crap it's not why I'm getting a no crank.
this column is a number 4 Vats and mine is a number 7 so I installed a bypass. Resistance in the module does match my old key though.
ugh
I reacted to the ORN & WHT of the wires. Show me the end of the connector.
If the end of the connector appears that this ignition cylinder harness would plug in then it's VATS but I wouldn't expect ORN & WHT and not that heavy a gauge wire.
What resistance did you use for the CCM by-pass? If the car was a #7 then you match the #7 and not the #4 of the newer cylinder. You've confused me just a bit after looking at your other thread.
*** Does the ORN & WHT actually fit the foot-well like I mentioned?
If you just replaced a column and you've a NO CRANK maybe you just need to check the orientation of the ignition rod in the ignition switch. Lots to check with a NO CRANK and an M6 car.
That connector is for the courtesy light. The orange on the ignition lock switch in the photo is sheathing for the smaller white wires. The connector for the VATS should be to the right of the steering column about half way down. You can disconnect it and put a resister in line if you do not want to buy the correct ignition lock switch.
That connector is for the courtesy light. The orange on the ignition lock switch in the photo is sheathing for the smaller white wires. The connector for the VATS should be to the right of the steering column about half way down. You can disconnect it and put a resister in line if you do not want to buy the correct ignition lock switch.
i plugged the bypass into the purple and white wire here. The restiance of the bypass matches my other key within 100ohms so I'm not sure what the deal is
i plugged the bypass into the purple and white wire here. The restiance of the bypass matches my other key within 100ohms so I'm not sure what the deal is
What you needed to do if you had a key that rotated the cylinder already use that key and have it "copied" to a key of the correct resistance and left the VATS intact.
There's a quite wide tolerance for resistance BUT I believe I'd rethink what you've done there. #7 resistance is 1795 (low) - 1965 (high). Your resistor is what? If yours is as you say 100Ω off either way of 1870 it would be a "no crank".
Get a key "copied" of the correct (car CCM resistance) using the mechanical cuts of the replacement cylinder, remove the whatever you've got inserted for resistance check the wires for continuity of the lock cylinder and give that a try.
What you needed to do if you had a key that rotated the cylinder already use that key and have it "copied" to a key of the correct resistance and left the VATS intact.
There's a quite wide tolerance for resistance BUT I believe I'd rethink what you've done there.
Get a key "copied" of the correct (car CCM resistance) using the mechanical cuts of the replacement cylinder, remove the whatever you've got inserted for resistance check the wires for continuity of the lock cylinder and give that a try.
sorry I wasnt clear hard on a phone. I ordered and installed a number 7 bypass module thing to match the 7 key out of the old column. Both the module and the old key (both 7) were like 80ohms apart both within the limit for a #7
here is the bypass module plugged into the factory vats harness. The shadow makes it hard to see but there is a little black box with the two red wires plugged into the purple and white from the car
Last edited by Taylor Allen; 07-09-2017 at 12:19 AM.
sorry I wasnt clear hard on a phone. I ordered and installed a number 7 bypass module thing to match the 7 key out of the old column. Both the module and the old key (both 7) were like 80ohms apart both within the limit for a #7
here is the bypass module plugged into the factory vats harness. The shadow makes it hard to see but there is a little black box with the two red wires plugged into the purple and white from the car
80 is way different than the 100 you mentioned earlier!
The SECURITY to "steady on" seems quite odd. I'd maybe get a key copied like i mentioned earlier using the resistance that's correct for the car.
With your particular set of circumstances this might be an interesting test/check. I've never needed to and I was never interested enough to just do it. I've an Interrogator etc so there's never been a need.
You mention having the FSM and I believe your car is a '91. If your FSM is correct go to page 8D-59 (We're NOT interested in doing CCM error check) only trying to confirm what your CCM is seeing as "KEY RESISTANCE".
Were're interested in just the check in Step 2 of that diagnostics. Jumper A & G in the ALDL and using the DIC & cluster to confirm information.
Very easy "non-destructive" test - if your VATS worked previously and you had no run issues what does your cluster display as a results? The chart(not a VATS resistance chart like you posted) is bottom of page.
While you're there you might use the DIC and cluster to finish diagnostics of the ECM/CCM etc but for now and your set of circumstances just the diagnostics and the value cluster displays from the chart.
This might be an interesting check for others as a point of interest and identifying/confirming VATS resistance.
If it's not a '91 and you don't have the FSM I sent you a PM with my email address and I'll share some information with you. Check your PMs!
With your particular set of circumstances this might be an interesting test/check. I've never needed to and I was never interested enough to just do it. I've an Interrogator etc so there's never been a need.
You mention having the FSM and I believe your car is a '91. If your FSM is correct go to page 8D-59 (We're NOT interested in doing CCM error check) only trying to confirm what your CCM is seeing as "KEY RESISTANCE".
Were're interested in just the check in Step 2 of that diagnostics. Jumper A & G in the ALDL and using the DIC & cluster to confirm information.
Very easy "non-destructive" test - if your VATS worked previously and you had no run issues what does your cluster display as a results? The chart(not a VATS resistance chart like you posted) is bottom of page.
While you're there you might use the DIC and cluster to finish diagnostics of the ECM/CCM etc but for now and your set of circumstances just the diagnostics and the value cluster displays from the chart.
This might be an interesting check for others as a point of interest and identifying/confirming VATS resistance.
If it's not a '91 and you don't have the FSM I sent you a PM with my email address and I'll share some information with you. Check your PMs!
I sent you an email - thanks for all the help so far! I am using a 90 FSM from my sister's car over the phone with my brother in law. Not optimal!
I sent you an email - thanks for all the help so far! I am using a 90 FSM from my sister's car over the phone with my brother in law. Not optimal!
See NOTE 2 and the chart at the bottom of the page. Disregard the first "bullet" in note 2 - it means nothing to concern you. Bullets from 2 thru 7 are relevant.
See NOTE 2 and the chart at the bottom of the page. Disregard the first "bullet" in note 2 - it means nothing to concern you. Bullets from 2 thru 7 are relevant.
I just plugged the old lock clyinder and key into the harness. Right away I get cranking! So even thought the bypass and the key measure very close to the same apparently it doesnt like it.
Now I just need to figure out that rats nest at the coil. If you poke at it sometimes it runs lol. Lots of electrical tape and different colored wiring so it looks like fun. I dont want to change the lock as I am lazy and it should run as it is now. I need to get the thing on the road so I can see how many other problems it has. The new column fixed those issues but I absolutely hate pulling apart GM turn signal cams and all that crap. I always break something.
Take the key that allowed "CRANK" to a GM Dealer Parts Dept and ask them to "drop it" in the Interrogator and get the "key information". If the Interrogator isn't in the Parts Dept they'll know where it's at.
Get the vendor to either replace "the by-pass" or get a refund! If the wires in the column are still good you could maybe just get a key cut with the correct mechanical code and correct resistance. Decision time I guess.
If you used your meter to check the resistance earlier maybe it's time for a new or if it's one of the better ones a calibration.
It might be interesting to do the A & G jumper and see what the CCM tells you it sees. A learning experience maybe!!
Take the key that allowed "CRANK" to a GM Dealer Parts Dept and ask them to "drop it" in the Interrogator and get the "key information". If the Interrogator isn't in the Parts Dept they'll know where it's at.
Get the vendor to either replace "the by-pass" or get a refund! If the wires in the column are still good you could maybe just get a key cut with the correct mechanical code and correct resistance. Decision time I guess.
If you used your meter to check the resistance earlier maybe it's time for a new or if it's one of the better ones a calibration.
It might be interesting to do the A & G jumper and see what the CCM tells you it sees. A learning experience maybe!!
07-08-2017, 07:12 PM
Help! Where does this plug go?!
