best budget oil pan? 1990 auto
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
acceleration oil pressure problems - 1990 auto
I have a 1990 auto. When I got my car it had a massive dent in the oil pan. It has good pressure under normal conditions, took 4.5 quarts when I changed it, and didn't make any clunking noises when I had my head under there so I left it alone. The other night I was beating on it and noticed after a burn out there was a red light on the dash and the pressure gauge was climbing but I didn't see how low it was. I'm thinking that the huge raccoon dent is effecting the slosh or the pickup tube. Have any of you seen low pressure on high acceleration? I looked back on some tunerpro logs but can't seem to dig up an oil pressure parameter? that sucks...
Anyway, my autocross plans are off this weekend until I replace the pan. I read thru Grumpy's forum comments on the subject, just wondering if there are any new part numbers out there. How about Moroso 21324? Of course, I want all the features of a $350 pan for about $150. How deep is the stock pan?
Anyway, my autocross plans are off this weekend until I replace the pan. I read thru Grumpy's forum comments on the subject, just wondering if there are any new part numbers out there. How about Moroso 21324? Of course, I want all the features of a $350 pan for about $150. How deep is the stock pan?
Last edited by ryank9398; 05-15-2017 at 09:34 PM. Reason: clarification
#3
Burning Brakes
Your big dent has probably pushed the pan up to the pickup not allowing it to pickup oil correctly. I know of some drag racers that run 1/2 to 1 qt. over full for high rpm usage when there is alot of oil in the upper part of the engine so as to not starve pickup.
Last edited by A Peter C4; 05-15-2017 at 09:04 PM.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
FWIW I went with a Kevko pan made in Minnesota. It is model 2001, 'stock appearing' with a scraper and baffles. Standard capacity and I also asked them to install a provision for a turbo drain back line !!! Fast service and good people and I think this is a good value.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
knock the dent out of your old pan make sure the pickup has the right clearance.
#6
Racer
FWIW I went with a Kevko pan made in Minnesota. It is model 2001, 'stock appearing' with a scraper and baffles. Standard capacity and I also asked them to install a provision for a turbo drain back line !!! Fast service and good people and I think this is a good value.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Is it 1/2" deeper? I didn't notice although the engine is out of the car still for total rebuild. FYI stroker crank clears also
I used Kevko 1001 pickup tube and a melling M55HV. What do you think of a remote mount dual oil filter and maybe additional cooler? My car has the oil/water heat exchanger, which is really close to the header right now. I may need to search that topic.
I used Kevko 1001 pickup tube and a melling M55HV. What do you think of a remote mount dual oil filter and maybe additional cooler? My car has the oil/water heat exchanger, which is really close to the header right now. I may need to search that topic.
The following users liked this post:
barbedwiredave (10-25-2017)
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Id rip off that "heat exchanger" and put a real oil cooler on it will help. Your cooling system will thank you when youre hard on the car
Last edited by cv67; 10-24-2017 at 03:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
barbedwiredave (10-25-2017)
#9
Safety Car
Stock pans are 7" deep.
A 7.5" deep pan is no problem. Lowest point of the pan will be even with the K frame.
The Kevko 1091-RR (7.5") and 1092-RR (7") are $225 and $235.... The proper pick up is additional $25....You are going to be $250 into it. You will also need to remove the factory windage tray (these pans have integral full length louvered trays). You will also need to drill a 1/2" or so hole in the tray for the dipstick if you intend to use one.... However if you plan to autocross and road race seriously, a good pan like these will be money and time well spent.
Will
A 7.5" deep pan is no problem. Lowest point of the pan will be even with the K frame.
The Kevko 1091-RR (7.5") and 1092-RR (7") are $225 and $235.... The proper pick up is additional $25....You are going to be $250 into it. You will also need to remove the factory windage tray (these pans have integral full length louvered trays). You will also need to drill a 1/2" or so hole in the tray for the dipstick if you intend to use one.... However if you plan to autocross and road race seriously, a good pan like these will be money and time well spent.
Will
The following users liked this post:
barbedwiredave (10-25-2017)
#10
Racer
Thanks for the pics and info everybody! I'm also mulling over removing the factory oil cooler since I have the system drained but my car will see little if any autocross.
Last edited by barbedwiredave; 10-25-2017 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Add
#11
Melting Slicks
The heat exchanger is also an oil heater in colder weather to get the oil up to temperature. Personally I would not be all that quick to throw it out unless a full time road race car.
The following users liked this post:
barbedwiredave (10-27-2017)