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Clutch Neutral Safety Switch

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Old 02-24-2017, 08:47 AM
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ClaudioC4
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Default Clutch Neutral Safety Switch

About 6 months ago I had the clutch on my 85 4+3 replaced by a transmission shop. They called me a few days later and said that the clutch was done but they could not get the car started. They claimed that the neutral switch had failed since the car did not VATS. They bypassed the switch because they were no longer available. I found on ebay I removed the jumped connector plugged in the new to me Neutral switch operated by hand and the car started.

I went though the painstaking process of replacing the switch. After finally replacing it I start the car and the same thing, no start. I plugged in the switch that I removed, operated by hand and the car starts. Mechanically all looks right, I checked the resistance on the switch and it works right. I am stumped as to why it won't work when it is installed.
Old 02-24-2017, 09:09 AM
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WVZR-1
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It seems that the linkage rod isn't installed correctly if both work in hand but not when installed.
Old 02-24-2017, 07:40 PM
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BLUE1972
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Test where the switch makes contact and then see if the rod is moving enough.

The new clutch may have less throw because of a different throw out bearing.

My clutch pedal has to almost hit the floor to engage the switch.
Old 02-27-2017, 09:28 AM
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ClaudioC4
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That was the problem, apparently the new McLeod clutch does not have a long throw, thus the safety switch did not engage. I shortened the shaft that connects the pedal to the switch and I now have contact. Thanks for the help.

Amazing that the transmission shop that replaced the clutch did not think of that!

Originally Posted by BLUE1972


Test where the switch makes contact and then see if the rod is moving enough.

The new clutch may have less throw because of a different throw out bearing.

My clutch pedal has to almost hit the floor to engage the switch.
Old 02-27-2017, 02:58 PM
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DGXR
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Originally Posted by ClaudioC4
That was the problem, apparently the new McLeod clutch does not have a long throw, thus the safety switch did not engage. I shortened the shaft that connects the pedal to the switch and I now have contact. Thanks for the help.

Amazing that the transmission shop that replaced the clutch did not think of that!
Another success story! I love this forum
Old 02-28-2017, 11:14 AM
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BLUE1972
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Unfortunately most shops today don't have real mechanics, they rely on the computer to tell them what to replace.

Take a car with points to a shop and watch the confusion.. it's priceless.

My neighbors son is a mechanic - he changes oil at a Fast Lube.

I had to help him change a thermostat.. PRICELESS....
Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 PM
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And some of those "real mechanics" don't know what to do with a modern computerized car. One mechanic is not better than the other, each is better with different technologies and (usually) each comes from different generations.
Old 02-28-2017, 08:27 PM
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steveb
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Originally Posted by ClaudioC4
That was the problem, apparently the new McLeod clutch does not have a long throw, thus the safety switch did not engage. I shortened the shaft that connects the pedal to the switch and I now have contact. Thanks for the help.

Amazing that the transmission shop that replaced the clutch did not think of that!
My safety switch mysteriously stopped working last Fall after replacing the clutch master cylinder on my '85 4+3. It has been bypassed since but I would like to get it working again as intended. How much of a pain was it to get up in there? It looked pretty difficult to get to from what I saw.
Old 03-01-2017, 09:26 AM
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It depends on how tall you are. If your 6' it will be uncomfortable.

Pull the seat and it's a lot easier. Put a thin piece of foam on the floor and take your time.

If yours comes with a sheet metal screw pre install the screw to cut the threads. Then remove the screw and install the unit with a drop of blue Loctite.

Then it's time for consuming massive quantiles of your favorite beverages.
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Old 03-01-2017, 09:31 AM
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ClaudioC4
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Originally Posted by steveb
My safety switch mysteriously stopped working last Fall after replacing the clutch master cylinder on my '85 4+3. It has been bypassed since but I would like to get it working again as intended. How much of a pain was it to get up in there? It looked pretty difficult to get to from what I saw.
Blue was correct, remove the seat, there is a black brace in the un bolt it and remove some of the wire connections to the brake and clutch pedals.

Once this is done, access is not too bad. I made a new linkage out of some strong wire and soldered so it will not come undone.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ClaudioC4
Blue was correct, remove the seat, there is a black brace in the un bolt it and remove some of the wire connections to the brake and clutch pedals.

Once this is done, access is not too bad. I made a new linkage out of some strong wire and soldered so it will not come undone.
Thanks for the information. I will have to give this a try once I get some time and nicer weather. Thanks again.

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