C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Oil pressure reducing as engine gets hotter

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Old 09-27-2015, 01:25 PM
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Gareth
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Default Oil pressure reducing as engine gets hotter

*****UPDATED WITH RESULTS 05/10/2015***********


Hi,

Finally got my car running with my 427 and had a few fun test drives. The car drives fine, no shortage of power and torque!

I have noticed however that the car runs hotter than before - the dash shows 190 - 230 despite having a huge Becool rad in it. Oil temp is about 180 and there is plenty of new synthetic oil in it.

The bug worry is the oil pressure. When the car is cold it hovers around the 50psi mark. As the car gets warned up tick over drops to about 34 but under load it drops, sometimes enough for the warning light to come on.

However, I am a bit worried about the accuracy of the digital cluster. The FAST system shows the Temperature to be much lower (160 to 180). The battery volts are always about 2 -3 volts off what I read at the battery.

Anything recommended or what could cause the oil pressure to be low?

Cheers

Last edited by Gareth; 10-06-2015 at 10:16 AM. Reason: append signature + Update
Old 09-27-2015, 01:53 PM
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antfarmer2
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maybe just the sender maybe put a t there with a real gauge too. always go with your digital. maybe a sticky oil pressure relief valve or weak spring.

Last edited by antfarmer2; 09-27-2015 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 09-27-2015, 02:50 PM
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ex-x-fire
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If your gauge is accurate those reading are fine, the rule of thumb for most pushrod v8s is 10psi of hot oil pressure per 1,000 rpms. You might want to put a mechanical oil pressure test gauge on it.
Old 09-27-2015, 03:05 PM
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Gareth
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Default I think a mechanical guage is a good bet.

I am worried because the oil pressure degreases with demand, so at 4000 I am dropping to 10psi not increasing.

Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
If your gauge is accurate those reading are fine, the rule of thumb for most pushrod v8s is 10psi of hot oil pressure per 1,000 rpms. You might want to put a mechanical oil pressure test gauge on it.
Old 09-27-2015, 03:13 PM
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1963SS
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Did you say new engine? Has it done this since the install? 427 huh.....that sounds like a boatload of fun. Oh, back to your question.......did you check the oil pump pickup to the oil pan clearance when you built the engine. If the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan the pump/oil will cavitate and do exactly what I believe you're describing. You'll want at least 3/8" and if a high volume pump maybe up to 1/2". I don't know that to be correct but it always works for me.Just a thought. And......quit going to 4000 and 10 PSI until you check with another gauge and sending unit. If it is a cavitation problem you'll be killing your engine.
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Old 09-27-2015, 03:13 PM
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antfarmer2
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Originally Posted by Gareth
I am worried because the oil pressure degreases with demand, so at 4000 I am dropping to 10psi not increasing.
that's not good is this a new build? I would be looking at the valve.
Old 09-27-2015, 03:15 PM
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antfarmer2
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Originally Posted by 1963SS
Did you say new engine? Has it done this since the install? 427 huh.....that sounds like a boatload of fun. Oh, back to your question.......did you check the oil pump pickup to the oil pan clearance when you built the engine. If the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan the pump/oil will cavitate and do exactly what I believe you're describing. You'll want at least 3/8" and if a high volume pump maybe up to 1/2". I don't know that to be correct but it always works for me.Just a thought. And......quit going to 4000 and 10 PSI until you check with another gauge and sending unit. If it is a cavitation problem you'll be killing your engine.
Old 09-27-2015, 03:48 PM
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Gareth
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Yes, it is a lot of fun for the 50miles I have done in it - sounds awesome. I didn't build the engine but It was built by a very respected builder

Last one I took.


An older pic.



Originally Posted by 1963SS
Did you say new engine? Has it done this since the install? 427 huh.....that sounds like a boatload of fun. Oh, back to your question.......did you check the oil pump pickup to the oil pan clearance when you built the engine. If the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan the pump/oil will cavitate and do exactly what I believe you're describing. You'll want at least 3/8" and if a high volume pump maybe up to 1/2". I don't know that to be correct but it always works for me.Just a thought. And......quit going to 4000 and 10 PSI until you check with another gauge and sending unit. If it is a cavitation problem you'll be killing your engine.
Old 09-27-2015, 03:49 PM
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Hi, which valve do you mean?


Originally Posted by antfarmer2
that's not good is this a new build? I would be looking at the valve.
Old 09-27-2015, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Gareth
Hi, which valve do you mean?
oil pressure relief valve weak or broken spring or sticky valve maybe your pick up tube is to close or loose or off

Last edited by antfarmer2; 09-27-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:18 PM
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You mean this, located behind the Dizzy cap?




Originally Posted by antfarmer2
oil pressure relief valve weak or broken spring or sticky valve maybe your pick up tube is to close or loose or off
Old 09-27-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Gareth
You mean this, located behind the Dizzy cap?

no that is your sending unit for oil pressure you need to talk to your builder and tell him what is going on I would not run it.

Last edited by antfarmer2; 09-27-2015 at 04:25 PM.
Old 09-27-2015, 08:42 PM
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mtwoolford
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I'm not a big block expert, but I have run big block oil pumps in small blocks successfully, so I have some familiarity with them

make sure the oil pump pickup hasn't fallen out or shifted around; I've never seen one that actually fell out, but I did see one about ready to fall out.

make sure that the screw in plug that secures the oil pump relief spring (it's not pinned in like a small block) hasn't backed out or unscrewed itself;

replace the oil pump relief spring with the high pressure (white ?) spring;

make sure no piece of grit or trash has become lodged between the relief valve plunger and seat;

also make sure you have adequate engagement between the oil pump, the oil pump drive shaft and the distributor gear that drives the whole durn thing; there should be only a minimum of vertical play, and not say, a 1/4 inch.

and please no debate about running big block pumps in small blocks
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:45 AM
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Actually it's a stroker motor, still a small block ;-)
Old 09-28-2015, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford

also make sure you have adequate engagement between the oil pump, the oil pump drive shaft and the distributor gear that drives the whole durn thing; there should be only a minimum of vertical play, and not say, a 1/4 inch.

and please no debate about running big block pumps in small blocks
Actually that's really interesting. I have had some problems with the dizzy engaging and the height is different because of my hack up mk1 miniram - but then I would expect the issue to manifest itself all the time. Could this be both poorly engaged or over engaged and restricting the movement of the pump?

I think my next course of action is to get a manual gauge and do some idle / low rpm tests to see how the oil pressure changes without load or G force.

This will take the digital gauge out of the equation anyway.

I'll let everyone know how I get on.

Old 09-28-2015, 07:59 AM
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An engine guy at work suggested that under very heavy load the oil could all get pumped to the heads and take too long to drain down. Anyone experienced this?
Old 09-28-2015, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gareth
Actually that's really interesting. I have had some problems with the dizzy engaging and the height is different because of my hack up mk1 miniram - but then I would expect the issue to manifest itself all the time. Could this be both poorly engaged or over engaged and restricting the movement of the pump?

I think my next course of action is to get a manual gauge and do some idle / low rpm tests to see how the oil pressure changes without load or G force.

This will take the digital gauge out of the equation anyway.

I'll let everyone know how I get on.

just don't run it low

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Old 09-28-2015, 08:33 AM
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Churchkey
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Originally Posted by Gareth
An engine guy at work suggested that under very heavy load the oil could all get pumped to the heads and take too long to drain down. Anyone experienced this?
Suggest adding an extra quart of oil to test.

Might rethink the stock 4 qt pan or add an accusump system.
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:41 AM
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what ever it is it still falls in your builders lap. I would call them first if you play with it and damage it they are going to give you full credit
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:41 AM
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Gareth
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
Suggest adding an extra quart of oil to test.

Might rethink the stock 4 qt pan or add an accusump system.
I added a what I felt comfortable adding prior to the last run. I am about 3/4 up the dipstick cold. I have an aftermarket Canton oil pan.

Thanks


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