1994 lower A arm r&r
#1
1994 lower A arm r&r
So is there any way to remove the lower a arm rear bolt without removing the sub frame member? Pulled everything off the car then hit that bolt what a pita. Should of looked at the fsm earlier. Working on the passenger side and only have jack and stands to work with. Can it be done or should I take to a shop?
#2
Drifting
On my 96 I had to loosen the 2 engine mount bracket braces, the diagonal braces behind the suspension under the motor. Each side is held on with 5 bolts, 2 on each end and 1 that goes to the motor mount. I removed the 2 inner bolts and the motor mount bolt, then by loosening the 2 outer bolts, I had enough play to get the rear a-arm bolts out. This must be a LT problem, on my '89 I could leave the braces in and still pull the bolts out.
#5
Think this is where I take it to the shop. Have to imagine the sub frame bolts are on tight and can't imagine getting enough leverage to remove then replace at the right torque with just 18 inches of clearance. It is pretty messed up though. Had they ran the bolts I'n from the front there would be no problem but noooooooooo that would be to simple. The vet gods ran them I'n from the back so there's extra labor for the stealership.
#6
Drifting
Sub frame doesn't have to come out, just the 2 braces angled braces behind it. The brace bolts and motor mounts are ~40 ft/lbs, but the a-arms mounting bolts are ~83 ft/lbs and at a bad angle to get to. Those bolts may be hard to tighten with limited clearance.
#7
Did you have a Lift for your repair? The a arm bolts were a pain but I took all the tension off the spring and torqued the nuts.
#8
Safety Car
Actually tech's would cuss out the factory too. Those K-members are assembled off car and then get put in. They don't give a **** that you cannot get it out easily once in the car. Yet, factory workers make a ton more money then techs and yet don't have to know crap or put up with as much. Hmm.....
#9
New idea
So aside from being a pita, does anyone have an opinion on just cutting the rear bolt I'n half and replacing the bolt backwards? Is drilling or saws all the better option?
#10
Drifting
I used jack stands when I pulled the spring and a arms from the 96, needed the height to get to soft spring out, the 89 was on my Kwiklift, I swapped the arms between them, then moved the 96 to the lift for final torque.
The following users liked this post:
1994DelawareCoup (09-11-2015)
#11
So it took a little longer than 5 10 minutes but loosening the engine brace is the way to go. Mine came completely off which gives much better access to the a arm bolt. Was able to torc wrench it befor re installing. Did buy a racing jack from hf to get more clearance for my big butt To get under there. Now I can change my own oil and do more projects