VetteWave

Which one is the best for my car?

PoloGrnC4

I'd do a search on this and note how much this has been discussed.

Bottom line... there is no bottom line... :)

BTW, I run the factory stock 180 unit.


[Modified by PoloGrnC4, 7:42 PM 8/19/2002]

VetteWave

It has been discussed before, but it seems no one can make a decision. I'm probably going with a 180 degree thermo since the stock on is 195 degree.

Lone Ranger

Here we go again :rolleyes:

nothin' personal... jsut been discussed, debated, contested a lot... :smash:

Lone Ranger

Bottom line is that as long as your engine (L98) goes into closed loop operation well before 160 degrees F, you're okay. And as long as your *oil temp* reaches 180F and stays at or above 180F you're effectively removing the moisture from your crankcase that is created during the warm-up to operating temperature phase of operation each time you run the motor. Some will claim oil temp needs to reach 212F (boiling point of water) to effectively remove moisture. Not necessarily. In piston airplane motors, both Lycoming and Continental use 180F as the effective moisture removal benchmark temperature and those motors are much more susceptible to sludge build-up and corrosion than modern automotive engines (airplane motors are low-tech).

The biggest factor in operating temp is when your radiator's two cooling fans are programmed to activate. Stock is like 230F activation temp.


[Modified by Lone Ranger, 7:00 PM 8/19/2002]

VetteWave

Lone Ranger...my mechanic just put a performance chip in the car so I hope it turns on the fans at a lower tempature!

Lone Ranger

It may or may not, depends. Try to find out form the chip maker if it does and at what temps it activates FAN 1 and FAN 2 temp. FAN 1 and FAN 2 are to do with the rpm speed of *both* fans together, not the 1st fan then the 2nd one as it might seem. They both kick on. FAN 1 is a lower rpm fan speed, wherea FAN 2 is the one that roars pretty loud when they're on. For instance, the 160 tstat settings that Hypertech used in the Power Programmer III activate FAN 1 @ 185F and FAN 2 @ 193F on my '95. Also, I think the stock tstat in your '90 is a 195 degree one, no? Maybe you could compromise and try a 180 degree tstat instead if you feel hincky about a 160? Hypertech uses FAN1 of 211F and FAN 2 of ?? (don't know haven't discovered FAN 2 yet) for the 180 tstat settings in their Power Programmer III unit. I know you can't use the programmers, just using their fan settings as an example.

vader86

In Atlanta, 160. I run a 160 in my car up here in Clemson and ive had no problems with it getting too hot anymore.

VetteWave

Lone Ranger,

He put a "Performance Resource" Ultra-high performance chip in. Don't know what temps the fans come on...no documentation. Anyone know?

65Z01

You will gain HP from either stat; about 8 hp more from the 160 deg unit (30deg is worth about 10hp).

Hardcorvette

180 is a good compromise. :yesnod:

red-y

160 degree - why wait for the 180 degree to open -
we all run hot anyway. :crazy: :yesnod:

Vette Ed

I run the hyper tech 160 power stat :cheers:

jfb

A 160 stat will do absolutely nothing to lower your coolant temps in hot weather. It will be wide open and you will see the same temps you do now. In cooler weather and over 35 mph your radiator will be able to get rid of heat fast enough to allow the 160 stat to control the coolant temp and 160 is too low to operate an engine. A CFer posted during one of these marathon discussions about 160 stats that he ran his C4 on a dynomometer and changed thermostats to a 160 and ran it again and had the same hp. Continental Motors ran some 25 hp motors at various coolant temps (starting at 160) and confirmed what the laws of physics predict , and that is, increasing hp and decreasing fuel consumption and decreasing cylinder bore wear with increasing coolant temperature. Clean your radiator out (road debris collects in the front of it), make your fan come on at a lower temperature, and install a water pump with more flow like a Stewart. I did all these things and kept my 195 stat on my 87 and in high 90's and sitting at a stop light, my coolant temp goes to 200 (used to go to 210-220 with the factory water pump) and when I get underway, it drops to 195. I knew the factory pump needed more flow because I could race the engine slightly at a light and watch the temp start to drop.

Oly

Mine came with a 195º, I replaced it with a 180º. Still have the stock chip, but I have a manual fan switch. It works for me...... although I think either one would be okay.


[Modified by Oly, 9:53 PM 8/19/2002]

Kehrer923

I live in texas and i run the 160 because with the A/C on my car runs 200 anyway,

Lone Ranger

I disagree, at least with regard to using a 160 in an LT1/4-- reverse flow cooling system. The coolant in the engine is hotter than the reading indicates because the reading is being taken as the cooled down coolant comes into the engine environment after just leaving the radiator. It picks up significantly more heat after this until it ultimately gives up that heat to the radiator on it's trip through there. I'm running a 160 w/ fan programming and my engine does run cooler than before (stock tstat was 180). it will run at 176 or 178 in motion. Fan 1 setting (low rpm) doesn't kick on until 185, so independent of the fans it is in fact running cooler (in motion) than with the 180 tstat when it used to run @ 194 - 196 while moving (stock fan 1 setting was 230). But the poster has an L98 so my experiences probably don't apply the same way. Also, I have noticed some seat of the pants improvement in pull and throttle response, but could also be due in part to fact that I did Throttle Body Coolant Bypass at same time I put in the 160 tstat. Haven't tried it with the 160 in cold weather yet, though. Saved my 180 tstat just in case.


[Modified by Lone Ranger, 10:51 AM 8/20/2002]

UDLUV12

VetteWave,

Most of us Vette owners have been trying to come up with a solution to our cars running 'hot' for years.

I recently installed a Mini Ram II, and while I was at it...I installed a new 160* thermostat.

However, prior to installing, I drilled the four (4) .200 diameter holes in the thermostat border, as suggested by TPIS. (See picture in TPIS' Insider Hints catalog).

TPIS has been recommending this for years...but I too thought the 160* thermostat would be "good enough".

Well let me tell you guys...I'm the original owner of my '86, and I can not believe the difference these four .200 diameter holes have meant to my engine. (Why didn't I do this earlier?)

As many of you know, we've had something like 40+ days of 90* plus days here on the East Coast, this summer. It's been brutal. Not to mention the humidity.

My engine has not been above 185* even with outside temperatures reaching nearly 100*, and me going through the gears a time or two.
It's not a daily driver, but I don't 'baby' it either when I take her out once or twice a week.

Seriously, I'm amazed and very pleased at the same time.

I would highly recommend to all L98 owners to do the same to their thermostat.

My oil temperatures are even running 10*-15* cooler.

Good Luck with your decision.

John

VetteWave

UDLUV12,

Sounds like an idea. How many people do you know have done this?

MIKE MARTIE

what are the 4 holes supposed to do? it sounds as though they're saying that the thermostat, even in the wide open position is too restrictive? i would be very interrested to hear more. where can we get more info. on the drilling of the thermostat?