binzee

on a 85 vet(auto-350) will any of these items give me a boost or are they a waste of cash?

Accel HEI Super Ignition Coil

Vortex Ram Intake System

C4 Corvette Maximum Performance Chip

Throttle Body Flow Booster

Air Pump Pulley Kit

Smooth Intake Coupler


thanks

jgalfo

Sorry .........Pretty much a waste of cash

John

John A. Marker

Pretty much a waste of cash. Spend money on exhaust system for the 85. Under drive pulley will also help. 1.6 RR on exhaust and 1.5 on intake (you can purchase the split ratio). Then if you want to spend money....the 85 heads suck. Almost any newer head will improve the system. Cam will really wake it up, but you will have to have access to a tuner that can burn a chip for your 85 if you change cam.

playsdixie

installed a air ram on my 85//// no difference....have the chip in a box in my garage to remind me not to be so stupid again....bought a air foil too...you can see that's stupid out of the box....if you get headers, you can delete the a.i.r. system and maybe get some gains...at least clean up the engine bay.....check vader86s web site, it'll tell you what works....

vader86

All a waste of money really.

dave_85

If you have a manual trans a 3.73 rear end is a good mod. Heads and cam are worth it if you can do the install but it's a big job.

ClaudioC4

Is there a good step by step guide on how to replace heads? All my search leads me to believing there too many steps missing for me to attempt. I also have an 85 and can get the 113 heads real cheap ($200) but from what I have read it still may not worth it. I have Full exhaust, cut up air box, throttle body bypass, and AIR delete. My goal is 300hp, I have an extra manifold and plenum that I plan to massage.

I would love to get a cam when I change the Heads and manifold but don't have the room or expertise to pull the engine.

vader86

Pulling heads yourself without someone around who has done it before is not something I would recommend for a newbie.

I did it, but I could've screwed all kinds of stuff up and luckily didnt.

ClaudioC4

Thanks for the advice, I will have to join a club and get some leads for help up here in the Northeast.

Is the intake/runner/plenum something that a weekend warrior can tackle? Or is it not worth it since the heads and cam are stock?

John A. Marker

Yes. Intake, runners and plenum can be a easy weekend project.

Advise:
1) Label without exception every nut and bolt your remove so you know where it goes. Place them in bags so you keep them together in groups. Note that there are different sizes bolts holding the runners to the intake and there are two inside between the two runners.
2) Label every hose.
2a) Disconnect the battery, negative cable FIRST.
3) Label every wire/plug you remove.
4) You will need flare wrenches to disconnect the fuel lines at the front of the block where they connect to the rails. You should get some rubber plugs that will slip over the fuel lines once they are disconnected because they will leak fuel.
5) You do not have to remove the fuel rail if you are just pulling the intake and intend to re-install it.
6) Remove plug #1 (front driver side). Take a 5/8 six point socket and rotate engine using the bolt that holds the balancer and line up the timing marks. Place a finger or thumb over the plug hole for #1 and feel for compression as you turn over the crank. You want compression in #1 and the timing marks lined up.
7) Remove the plug wires from the plugs and label each wire.
8) Remove the distributor cap (this is assuming your removing the intake).
9) Take a piece of paper and tape it to the windshield and draw a representation of the distributor and MARK the position of the rotor in this picture so you know where to place the rotor when you drop the distributor back in place. Note that the rotor will turn clockwise as you drop it back in, so you want to compensate by backing it up a little before you drop it back in place.
10) When you install the intake, use the RIGHT STUFF for sealant on the front and rear china walls. Run a bead of about 3/8" on both walls and about 1/4" into the intake gaskets. Carefully place the intake straight down setting it in place.
11) Use a thread sealant on any intake bolt that goes into the valley.

You will have to drain coolant if your going to remove the intake. Drain the radiator and the block. To drain the block, remove the knock sensor on the passenger side located forward of the starter. There is a plug in the block on the drivers side. You will need a six point socket and a breaker bar for this one. There may be a buildup of rust inside the block so when you pull the sensor or the plug the coolant may not run out. Just take a screwdriver and insert it into the hole.....stand back because the coolant will rush out......don't want a mouthful.

12) When putting things back together use anti-seize on any bolt that screws into aluminum.

Heads are not much harder, just a little more to remove. If you can get a friend that has done heads before, it will be easier.

vader86

I would say the plenum/runners are cake, its getting into the base that causes the headaches he's alluded to above.

gerardvg

Long tube headers are the best bang for buck.
They will knock 0.7 sec of your quarter mile, adjustable fuel pressure regulator is the next thing (unless you need emission tests then do not do that). Set the fuel pressure at 45-48 psi, the TPI engines love that and will knock that extra bit from the quarter mile to bring a otherwise standard vette into mid 13.5 quarters.

Cut the lid of the air filter, or best install a cold air intake.

You can pretty much forget the chips and air foils, they do not make a noticable difference.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hedman-Hedders-68440-Painted-Hedders-Exhaust-Header-84-91-Corvette-/281359898134?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1985%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item41825b5616

http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-TPI-Camaro-Z28-Trans-Am-Corvette-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-AFPR-/370673360776?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564dda9f88

pipe

I did a bunch of small bolt on stuff to my 90 seems to have added up to something. It went from a high 14 second car to real low 13s coil,good wires,chip,cold air rammer,headers n flow masters,air pump delete pulley,bigger throttle body.still has the stock block,heads and intake. Good luck whatever you decide pipe

ormarker85

Just stuck the long tunes on my 85. Along with some 195 AFR. Waiting for it to dry out and test. Ran 13.2 before.

ormarker85

I agree John Marker