U-joint replacement!
#1
U-joint replacement!
This weekend I am going to take the car to the track but I figure before I go I better replace those old u-joints with some new spicers.
This will be my first time changing them on a c4 corvette. Do you guys have any tips? Whats the easiest way to remove the half shafts? How long does it usually take to do all of them?
thanks in advance!
This will be my first time changing them on a c4 corvette. Do you guys have any tips? Whats the easiest way to remove the half shafts? How long does it usually take to do all of them?
thanks in advance!
#3
Safety Car
U-Joints
In addition to here, there's another thread that's pretty good at: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
I did mine a few months back and worked pretty good. I also made a tool for the hydraulic press and it worked out well.
I did mine a few months back and worked pretty good. I also made a tool for the hydraulic press and it worked out well.
#4
I've never done "joints only" so my help may not be good help...
but here goes...
I d/c the hub from the rods/struts, pull wheels and get under a VERY stable car on stands with floor jack as back-up.
Remove strap bolts, then simply use feet to push OUTWARD on hub (reinstall a wheel if needed) and the half shaft drops in your lap. Couldn't be any simpler if I tried.
This is where I detail and polish all the alum under the ***-end, and then reassemble.
All in all, not more than 3 or 4 hrs to do all 4 AND have a bright shiny rear suspension.
but here goes...
I d/c the hub from the rods/struts, pull wheels and get under a VERY stable car on stands with floor jack as back-up.
Remove strap bolts, then simply use feet to push OUTWARD on hub (reinstall a wheel if needed) and the half shaft drops in your lap. Couldn't be any simpler if I tried.
This is where I detail and polish all the alum under the ***-end, and then reassemble.
All in all, not more than 3 or 4 hrs to do all 4 AND have a bright shiny rear suspension.
#5
Melting Slicks
I jack the rear of the car romove the straps that hold the joints into place. Pry the inner one off the rear let it come down do the same with the outter replace in reverse order. Iv yet to have to remove anything not even the rear tires but removeing thems gives you more wiggle room
#7
Le Mans Master
Here's a link to Vader's web page...Go to "Technical info", then to "Scorps U-joint replacement tutorial".... I think this is the best tutorial on the web for replacing U-joints and is the one I used with great results.......WW
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
Last edited by WW7; 09-03-2014 at 07:41 AM.
#8
I jack the rear of the car romove the straps that hold the joints into place. Pry the inner one off the rear let it come down do the same with the outter replace in reverse order. Iv yet to have to remove anything not even the rear tires but removeing thems gives you more wiggle room
Still think the hub retaining bolts could have been done a lil better....
#9
Safety Car
U-Joints
Here's a link to Vader's web page...Go to "Technical info", then to "Scorps U-joint replacement tutorial".... I think this is the best tutorial on the web for replacing U-joints and is the one I used with great results.......WW
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
Here's the tool I made to press u-joints:
I was a little worried about pressing on both sides of the halfshafts at the same time and this worked out great. Even easy to use outside the press with a piece of steel to use like a tamper if the caps are pressed in a little too far.
#11
Safety Car
I agree with hcbph on the non alignment end of the 'bone. No need to realign. Its a bit of a PITA to get it back in place but better in my opinion. I dropped the spring as well and those two point gave enough slack to pop the half shaft out. It doesnt take much room to get it to drop.
#12
Safety Car
Misc
I agree with hcbph on the non alignment end of the 'bone. No need to realign. Its a bit of a PITA to get it back in place but better in my opinion. I dropped the spring as well and those two point gave enough slack to pop the half shaft out. It doesnt take much room to get it to drop.
Once the shaft is loose, pull the spindle nut and pull it all the way out. easy to do both u-joints and also easy to check and (if needed) replace the teflon washer at the same time. If you have hubs to do, all 3 of the torx bolts are easier to get to also.
#13
Safety Car
Yup, be careful you aren't pinching and tearing your bushing when you reinstall the dogbone to the hub. I put a jack under the dogbone and push it up into the hub. You can use a long 1/4" ratchet extension through the bolt hole and pry to line it up to get the bolt through.
#15
Race Director
I just removed the half shafts by only disconnecting the leaf spring and tie rod end. I used 1/4" drive breaking bar to get comfortably at the outer u-joint strap bolts. The outer u-joint was missing all of the needle bearings in one cap which was cracked. Now I know where the noise came from.
Oh, getting the half shaft out and back in takes time and patience, but it's doable. I didn't want to undo the nut that requires 175lb-ft to re install. Anybody have trouble getting the snap rings into the grooves on the half shafts? Took me several tries.
Oh, getting the half shaft out and back in takes time and patience, but it's doable. I didn't want to undo the nut that requires 175lb-ft to re install. Anybody have trouble getting the snap rings into the grooves on the half shafts? Took me several tries.
Last edited by Strick; 10-23-2014 at 07:19 PM.