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ZF6 Reverse Shifter Lockout - Broken. Help

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Old 07-27-2014, 09:24 PM
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RandomTask
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Default ZF6 Reverse Shifter Lockout - Broken. Help



Item #25 in the picture above. Is it possible to just pull the whole shifter assy and remove it entirely so I can get reverse? Not worried about needing it locked out; in a race car that will never see sixth.
Old 07-28-2014, 05:30 AM
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WVZR-1
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Originally Posted by RandomTask
Item #25 in the picture above. Is it possible to just pull the whole shifter assy and remove it entirely so I can get reverse? Not worried about needing it locked out; in a race car that will never see sixth.
You've actually broken the rod and not the lift ring or the set screw hasn't fallen out? I don't know that I've ever seen that failure. To remove the detent from the shifter operation on an early transmission gets involved. I might have an early shifter. I'd need to look.
Old 07-28-2014, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You've actually broken the rod and not the lift ring or the set screw hasn't fallen out? I don't know that I've ever seen that failure. To remove the detent from the shifter operation on an early transmission gets involved. I might have an early shifter. I'd need to look.
Broke the rod; snapped it in half about 6-7" down.
Old 07-28-2014, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RandomTask
Broke the rod; snapped it in half about 6-7" down.
In your case (LeMons racer) I believe you could just remove the block
#27 in your image and the compression spring #30 and you would have a "crash-thru" for reverse. I have a shifter here without the rod and the block and spring were very easy to remove. The spring sits in a very shallow recess on the block, and the rod floats in a small bored hole on the top of the block. With the rod out I believe you should have no trouble. That I believe would accomplish what's accomplished with the Hurst/B&M when used with the early cars.

The actual detent is in the trans but .....................

Take a small pocket screwdriver or knife blade and while pushing down with a welding rod or whatever then just insert the blade into the compression spring and remove the block.

Good luck!

Last edited by WVZR-1; 07-28-2014 at 12:21 PM.
Old 07-28-2014, 12:14 PM
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that is essentially what happens with the conversion to a hurst or B&M shifter.
Old 07-28-2014, 12:23 PM
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WVZR-1
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I edited my post but it didn't seem to stick so here:

The screw which you don't see in your image in that block locks the rod in the block. Perhaps that screw has just backed off and you could reinstall the rod and move on. If the bottom of your rod has a clean smaller diameter on the bottom I'd guess that's what's happened! Back out the screw and try to reinstall the rod before removing the block if you wanted.
Old 07-28-2014, 10:11 PM
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Got it all out Thanks WV! it sheared where it goes into the block :/

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