383 Stroker Without Overboring
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
I haven't done one but I think the 383 combo with the stroker crank needs some special piston pin offset to put the piston lower in the deck and is limited to a certain amount of lift and the oil ring comes real close to the piston pin
Dont have these problems if u want to lay out close to 3 grand on a aftermarket raised block also if u dont want to overbore ur cyl's sure it can be done if u can find pistons in a std bore to use with a stroker crank but it will cost ya power and about up to a full 1/2 sec in the quarter mile or u can min the power loss and go with custom full forged slugs with full floating pins and go with the higher piston to wall clearance that goes with those and the softer chrome moly rings instead of hard chrome that requires a perfect bore and makes the best power. The softer chrome moly will conform to piston cly bore Irregularities and wear into the odd worn out cly bore but don't last long
The 383 kits r cheep I think under 500 bucks now if they can be had in STD bore sizes u could skip out on the right bore prep and just clearance the pan rail area for the longer stroke but it would be half ***
Dont have these problems if u want to lay out close to 3 grand on a aftermarket raised block also if u dont want to overbore ur cyl's sure it can be done if u can find pistons in a std bore to use with a stroker crank but it will cost ya power and about up to a full 1/2 sec in the quarter mile or u can min the power loss and go with custom full forged slugs with full floating pins and go with the higher piston to wall clearance that goes with those and the softer chrome moly rings instead of hard chrome that requires a perfect bore and makes the best power. The softer chrome moly will conform to piston cly bore Irregularities and wear into the odd worn out cly bore but don't last long
The 383 kits r cheep I think under 500 bucks now if they can be had in STD bore sizes u could skip out on the right bore prep and just clearance the pan rail area for the longer stroke but it would be half ***
#24
Burning Brakes
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Read up a little Page 2 Explains what I was trying to say
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...l_block_chevy/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...l_block_chevy/
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Read up a little Page 2 Explains what I was trying to say
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...l_block_chevy/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...l_block_chevy/
#26
Drifting
Has everyone forgotten pi R squared? Yes the GM crate is 382.019 vs a .030 with a 3.75 crank at 382.668.
What the OP is really missing is availability of parts. My guess is very few piston sets for a 383 come in std bore. Therefore, the added cost would pay for the .030 overbore of his block. Swapping in a 383 would not take away any value IMHO unless the car is a low mileage original numbers matching a collector is looking for.
Personally, i would keep it a 350 and spend money on headwork, roller rockers and a cam, but what do I know.
Remember guys,
Radius x radius x 3.1416 x stroke x amount of cylinders is not that hard.
What the OP is really missing is availability of parts. My guess is very few piston sets for a 383 come in std bore. Therefore, the added cost would pay for the .030 overbore of his block. Swapping in a 383 would not take away any value IMHO unless the car is a low mileage original numbers matching a collector is looking for.
Personally, i would keep it a 350 and spend money on headwork, roller rockers and a cam, but what do I know.
Remember guys,
Radius x radius x 3.1416 x stroke x amount of cylinders is not that hard.
Last edited by MrWillys; 07-24-2014 at 07:16 PM.
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Has everyone forgotten pi R squared? Yes the GM crate is 382.019 vs a .030 with a 3.75 crank at 382.668.
What the OP is really missing is availability of parts. My guess is very few piston sets for a 383 come in std bore. Therefore, the added cost would pay for the .030 overbore of his block. Swapping in a 383 would not take away any value IMHO unless the car is a low mileage original numbers matching a collector is looking for.
Personally, i would keep it a 350 and spend money on headwork, roller rockers and a cam, but what do I know.
Remember guys,
Radius x radius x 3.1416 x stroke x amount of cylinders is not that hard.
What the OP is really missing is availability of parts. My guess is very few piston sets for a 383 come in std bore. Therefore, the added cost would pay for the .030 overbore of his block. Swapping in a 383 would not take away any value IMHO unless the car is a low mileage original numbers matching a collector is looking for.
Personally, i would keep it a 350 and spend money on headwork, roller rockers and a cam, but what do I know.
Remember guys,
Radius x radius x 3.1416 x stroke x amount of cylinders is not that hard.
I plan to install roller rockers. I don't plan to race this car though; it's just "for fun". Wouldn't a new cam and headwork be more for high-RPM applications like racing?
#28
Drifting
Thanks, that was exactly the information I was looking for! I didn't want to overbore because I thought it would hurt value, but what you say makes sense.
I plan to install roller rockers. I don't plan to race this car though; it's just "for fun". Wouldn't a new cam and headwork be more for high-RPM applications like racing?
I plan to install roller rockers. I don't plan to race this car though; it's just "for fun". Wouldn't a new cam and headwork be more for high-RPM applications like racing?
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
Not really, and more air is more power. Components that compliment each other is what you want. The success of the L98 is the lowend to midrange power. Put a Comp 08-501-8 with 1.5 rockers and it will wake it up, but is not so big to take away street manners for the girls in the house. If you don't mind spending the extra money on the crank kit go for it. Get an internally balanced aftermarket crank, so you don't need the externally balanced harmonic balancer, and flexplate.
Just a few questions:
Will it lose any low-range torque with the 501-8?
I heard 1.6RR are best, is there a reason you'd say 1.5 is better?
A crank kit is what, just a crankshaft and a few other small components? Is it what is referred to as a stroker kit?
If I did the crank kit, does that involve any machining of my existing components?
#30
Drifting
Thanks for the advice.
Just a few questions:
Will it lose any low-range torque with the 501-8? Not noticeable
I heard 1.6RR are best, is there a reason you'd say 1.5 is better?
1.6 rocker increase lift, and duration slighty. This cam with 1.5's will not require reprogramming.
A crank kit is what, just a crankshaft and a few other small components? Is it what is referred to as a stroker kit?
Crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings.
If I did the crank kit, does that involve any machining of my existing components?
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it requires some machining of the block for clearance, but that was with the 400 crank. This may have been resolved by now in new designs. Maybe someone else can comment.
Just a few questions:
Will it lose any low-range torque with the 501-8? Not noticeable
I heard 1.6RR are best, is there a reason you'd say 1.5 is better?
1.6 rocker increase lift, and duration slighty. This cam with 1.5's will not require reprogramming.
A crank kit is what, just a crankshaft and a few other small components? Is it what is referred to as a stroker kit?
Crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings.
If I did the crank kit, does that involve any machining of my existing components?
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it requires some machining of the block for clearance, but that was with the 400 crank. This may have been resolved by now in new designs. Maybe someone else can comment.
#31
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Tha's whatt GM uses in their 383 crate engines with a 4" bore.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255301...-assembly.html
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255301...-assembly.html
It really doesn't matter; either way will work fine and produce about the same results.
#32
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Here is a vid showing it done w/a machine, but it shows where and how much grinding is necessary...not much.
....and with certain cap screw type rods, it may not be necessary.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 07-24-2014 at 08:45 PM.
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
Crank design can't fix the problem of clearance between the pan rails and the rod. RODS can fix that problem. The "clearancing" is simply grinding the insides of the block at the pan rails, so the rod (with it's longer stroke) doesn't hit the block. You could do it with a home grinder.
Here is a vid showing it done w/a machine, but it shows where and how much grinding is necessary...not much.
Stroker Clearancing a SB Chevy 350 Block for a 383 Stroker Crank - YouTube
....and with certain cap screw type rods, it may not be necessary.
Here is a vid showing it done w/a machine, but it shows where and how much grinding is necessary...not much.
Stroker Clearancing a SB Chevy 350 Block for a 383 Stroker Crank - YouTube
....and with certain cap screw type rods, it may not be necessary.
How much more torque should be expected from a 377 or a 383 stroked L98? Would you say it's worth it, or are other upgrades more efficient?
Like I said, I don't plan on racing this - I just want it to be a (more) fun car to drive.
#35
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Second, is it worth it? Personal opinion, 100%. Depends on your goals, future plans, budget, etc. If you like a "tq monster" that gives you whiplash w/the gas pedal, then it's probably "worth it". If you're goal is the best 1/4 mile times for the $$, then it's probably not worth it.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 07-25-2014 at 11:52 AM.
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
First, everything else being equal, with a stock or stockish top end, I'd expect maybe 30 more tq. So you'de be at something like 370 tq, IMO.
Second, is it worth it? Personal opinion, 100%. Depends on your goals, future plans, budget, etc. If you like a "tq monster" that gives you whiplash w/the gas pedal, then it's probably "worth it". If you're goal is the best 1/4 mile times for the $$, then it's probably not worth it.
Second, is it worth it? Personal opinion, 100%. Depends on your goals, future plans, budget, etc. If you like a "tq monster" that gives you whiplash w/the gas pedal, then it's probably "worth it". If you're goal is the best 1/4 mile times for the $$, then it's probably not worth it.
Do you think I could stroke it without replacing the intake manifold first? Problem is, the one I'm looking at is the FIRST TPI intake and it costs $1000, so for now it's either the stroker or the intake. I'll probably end up with both down the road (no pun intended) but right now I have to choose.
#37
Le Mans Master
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check out this guys prices. Feedback on his products is great too. This is an lt1 but he does them for the older engines too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=301254811546
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
check out this guys prices. Feedback on his products is great too. This is an lt1 but he does them for the older engines too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=301254811546
Can anyone answer my remaining two questions?