senorv47

No your not, It did not occur to me either. Thanks to the people in this forum I got help. Here is my experience, I replaced my intake gasket and put everything back together. The same thing happened to me with the distributor and I had a hell of a time. But even after I got it right, it would attempt to start but die every time I tried to crank it. For days I could not figure I out and reviewed my steps over and over. Then it hit me, I disconnected the MAF and the car started right up. Turns out I also had a bad MAF. Duh!!! LOL

ForceFedC4

Oh man, engines can be so tricky to diagnose because the symptoms are all the same.. doesn't start, runs bad, idles high, doesn't idle, misfire, etc. I guess you know my very frustration than with trying to figure the ignition timing out, haha same reason! I bet this happens often.

I'm glad for forums too, I really needed this help I am grateful for all of you taking the time to advise me on how to fix this car myself.

As for the maf, I will keep that in mind because who knows what will happen next with this car!

cudamax

Do exactly what this guy shows ya and rule once and for all if you got it stabbed right or not

ForceFedC4

Ok, followed video, even removed the valve cover to make sure I was at #1 TDC. Confirmed, TDC definitely, removed distributor completely, lined up casting mark and dimple on gear.. reinstalled distributor. Turned crank slightly as shown, dizzy fell into place.. rotor is facing right at #1 on the cap. Double and triple checked, have fuel, have spark, have injector pulse, have plenty of air.

Engine, still won't start. Only backfires through the intake, starting fluid won't help it start now because it's so far advanced the engine is throwing spark when the intake valves are open and I even tried to start it with the advanced ecu wire connected, and disconnected. No difference. See video for car acting up.

I'm at a stand still here. I don't understand how the timing can be so far advanced at certified TDC that the spark is firing when the intake valves are still open?

cudamax

I still think ur restab of the dist is off I know ur gone-a be cussing me. I've had the same problems with sbc restabs myself U could be a tooth off The rotor should actually be a little before number 1 and I mean a little and not right on it. Try it again because thats all I got besides a remote chance that all that water that got sucked in ur plenum torn up a rod or ripped some teeth off the cam gear of the timing chain but I dont think so
Restab it and get it just before number 1 The rotor once at number 1 will be pointing towards the front of the engine at like 6 o.clock That where ur at right

ForceFedC4

Oh, it should be pointing forwards? I thought it was supposed to end up facing to the front drivers side a little, alright I will try it again tomorrow morning. That would mean I have it set too far advanced which would explain the popping in the intake. That must be what is going on, because I even tried turning the key with my right hand, while turning the distributor with my left hand and it won't start. I can't turn the dizzy far enough to get it to run.

I did get one hell of a shock though when my hand slipped and the lead from the coil got me!

I don't mind re-stabbing it again, I will do what ever it takes to get this thing started because I need to drive it to the shop so it can get tuned.

I apologize if I'm annoying anybody with this ongoing thread, I'm glad you are patient with me. I'm really trying and this is a learning experience for me.

Thanks!

ForceFedC4

Alright, I was 180° off the last time I did it.

Glad that's over with, now.. I attempted to set the base timing once the car was warmed up, to 6° btdc with the advanced timing wire disconnected. I can get to the point where I dial in 6 degrees on my digital timing light, and I can spin the distributor so that I can read "TDC" on the 0 indicator on the balancer.

IS that how to set the 6 degree advance, by zeroing the balancer on the engine gauge while the timing light is set to 6 degrees?

senorv47

Well at least you got through that. Not sure about your digital timing light, I never used one. But I believe timing is suppose to be 6 Degrees BTDC. You are probably going to have to do a Base idle adjustment too. If you search on the forum you should be able to find that procedure.

cudamax

Check out Youtube A million videos there and Post a video of that baby on a blast, maybe someone in the p.s. holding the phone. Glad u got it going

ForceFedC4

thanks guys!

Digital timing light just like one with a dial, only it has buttons and an lcd screen to read how many degrees I'm setting it to.. just gotta see if I need to set it to 6 degrees on the gun, then set the balancer to TDC while its running?

I will look up the idle adjustment and once I get the timing close enough to get it to a shop with a dyno I'm going to have it tuned and leave it alone. lol

I will post a video once the car is in streetable condition for sure!

cudamax

Thats how those work Whatever advance u want u dial it on the head of the timing light and look for TDC on the Balancer. Just make sure ur Idling at the right speed and not 1000 rpm or something because it changes things.

phat87

When you start your engine and the timing is zero the strobe will fire EXACTLY when the timing marks line up (theoretically).

As your move your distributor fwd or back the timing marks will APPEAR to move aft or ahead on the harmonic balancer. OK, you're getting advance ( or retard).

You don't know HOW MUCH adv or retard you have yet All you know is now the two timing marks APPEAR to not line up any more.

What you what to find out is how much, how many degrees) of crank angle have you moved the distributor.
So now as you start to move the dial on the timing gun the timing marks will APPEAR to move closer together. When they APPEAR to line up just like they did when the initial timing was ZERO you look at the readout (digital or analog) and that is how many degrees of adv or retard you have.

All the timing light is doing is DELAYING the strobe flash. It's not actually doing anything mechanical. It is a variable capacitor that delays the stroke so it APPEARS that timing marks have moved.

HOPE that helps.

senorv47

Any updates on your situation? I got my 88 running. It was the MAF. I replaced it, did the ignition timing adjustment and it is running beautiful.