cudamax

Don't run run it at all with ater showed down its throat. Don't think u need to restab the Dist If its running at a high idle and u can give it throttle. Start looking for Vacuum leaks/screw-ups and use carb cleaner and spray around everywhere anywhere there could be a leak You'll find them Quicker What about the 9th cold shot Injector?

cudamax

Wait just stop mess in with it and get that baby Towed to my place with a spare set of rear tires and Ill get it right and fry the rears testing it out on a couple of Test-Beats

ForceFedC4

Haha, If I had a car trailer I would definitely take it somewhere to get help.

I have a set of spare wheels and tires, ready to roast.

Vacuum lines are correct, just routed funny because everything in the engine bay was moved or relocated.

If someone is local to 08865 and would like to come see it and or help, by all means please do

ForceFedC4

Thanks for the tip, I will try that in the morning, spray the CC around to see if the idle raises then i found the leak

playsdixie

dist wire needs to be disconnected when timing......I don't think you should have given the dist 1/4 turn back when re inserting....I"d put the engine at tdc and make sure the rotor is on #1...

cudamax

Your up in Jersey Damn Im outside of Chicago I would if ur closer If while ur cranking its bucking on the starter u could be a little fowrard/advanced on the dist stab, by a tooth and maybe why its running close to 2 grand with the dist backed off or turned retarded.Get someone to crank it and u turn the dist around both advanced and retarded while cranking and see if it pops off. If so re-stab it and once its right mark the dist on the base and the block with a cutting file so u can always get ur lead back quickly where its right.

ForceFedC4

I may have been misleading about my 1/4 turn, sorry about that. What I meant by the 1/4 turn was the gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft only fits in 2 ways, correctly, and 180 degrees off because of that little key at the bottom inside it, so when I re-installed it I had to turn it back a little to get the curved teeth of the gears to mesh, and the key fit in how it was supposed to allowing the distributor to go all the way down, and I locked it into position. Based on photos from before I took it apart, it looks like I have it advanced a little too far maybe but I will try having somebody crank it, while I turn it either direction to see if it wants to start one way or the other. I won't be able to try this for a couple days since I work long shifts and have nobody around to help me, but I will post back and let everyone know how it's going if I make progress once I time the thing. I will post a video if it's successful.

Thank you everybody for your time and wisdom!

Makes life a lot easier with this kind of help.

- Brett

hooked073

if the car is running and you have enough room to turn the dist to time it then you are fine if you cannot turn the dist far enough them you will have to pull the dist and reset it. To set the timeing you need to remove the timing set wire it is brown with black tracer on the left isde at the back of the valve cover. with your sit up not sure what your timing should be at but stock 6deg. I would not worry about a vacume leak untill it is running and timing is done.

ForceFedC4

Thank you, and I'm glad I can still time it even if there is a vacuum leak some place, I was wondering about that.

I'm gonna go with the 6 degree timing for base, this car runs on F.A.S.T. ecu and I have no idea how that was tuned or if it messes with timing, but I will set the base timing and let it go from there.

Thank you

senorv47

Sounds to me like it is 180 degrees out or off to some degree. line up the timing mark on the front of the engine to the O mark and make sure the number one cylinder is all the way to the top. The distributor should be pointing to the number one cylinder.
That will give you your base timing. Once you have your base timing, and if your fuel pump is activating and you have fuel pressure at the rail. the car should start or attempt to start. Then you can do your timing procedure.

hooked073

If I read him right he did get it started and running so being 180 out would be inpossible in reality he could be a tooth or so off on the dist but as long as he has room to turn the dist to get his timing it does not matter. He needs to dig his timing light out set the timing to 6 then start adressing his problems and my quess it is going to take some time to get it running right

senorv47

cudamax

ForceFedC4

It's raining, hopefully tomorrow is nice.. I will have time in the afternoon to tinker with the car, so hopefully I can set the timing and I will let you guys know how it goes. Here is a video from before I took it apart, the car ran well before, it was just sitting for so long that a lot of small issues are appearing as I drive it, or attempt to drive it. Can't enjoy it yet, but it did run before me removing the intake manifold.

Tommycourt

Nice looking ride-next time don't be so anxious to get it super clean but I know how a man feels when he is proud of something and you should be proud of your ride!!
Tommy

ForceFedC4

Alright now I'm getting frustrated. Naturally.

I rotated the engine so the TDC mark on the balancer, lined up exactly with the -0 mark on the engine gauge. for 0 degrees TDC. I removed the cap, and the distributor was facing # 5 or something in the back.

So, I lifted it up, spun it around until it was facing exactly at #1 cylinder, and it went right back down into place in the engine. I bolted everything back together, and thought to myself, hmm now it must be right, it had to have been way of before.

So, I crank and crank and crank, intake backfires a few times but the engine won't even try to start now with starting fluid.

What on earth am I doing wrong here? It cant be this complicated can it?

senorv47

Did you make sure the #1 piston was in the up position when you were on the O mark? I know it is tough to check but you could be on the exhaust stroke versus the compression stroke.

ForceFedC4

I guess the only way to really do it right at this point, is to remove the driver side rocker cover, and spin the engine with a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and watch until the intake rocker comes back up, then look for the timing mark on the balancer and put that at 0?

I didn't do that, I just trusted that the mark on the balancer thinking it was TDC.

I'm guessing by the fact that the intake backfired, means that the ignition is going off while the intake valve is still open, meaning my timing is so far advanced that its igniting the combustion mix and firing it into the intake?

ForceFedC4

I feel like an idiot by the way, it never occurred to me that the piston was probably on the wrong stroke when I lined up the TDC mark. You must be correct, I will have try it again in the morning if I can sneak in some wrench time before work. Thank you!

senorv47

If you remove the number 1 plug and have someone hold their finger over the hole and seal it, as you turn the crank and the piston goes to the top their finger will be pushed out by the air in the cylinder. If you are watching the mark you will know that you are on the compression stroke.