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Fuel Leaking from T -- What Part is this

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Old 07-20-2014, 01:25 PM
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Default Fuel Leaking from T -- What Part is this

1986 - Convertible





Crack in the rubber T ... fuel leaking --- is there suposed to be fuel in this line?

What part is that that it's connected to?
Old 07-20-2014, 02:45 PM
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John A. Marker
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There should not be fuel in the line...vacuum line to the diverter valve which allows air from the air pump into the exhaust manifold to help fire the cat on start up/warm up.
Old 07-20-2014, 03:46 PM
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Default Thanks John

Originally Posted by John A. Marker
There should not be fuel in the line...vacuum line to the diverter valve which allows air from the air pump into the exhaust manifold to help fire the cat on start up/warm up.
It just recently started to start with several cranks where before it would fire right up ... like it was flooded maybe. Do you think I have a leaking fuel injector?
Old 07-20-2014, 03:54 PM
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You might pull & plug the vac line from the FPR, start the engine and see if there is gas coming from the FPR's vac port, indicating a leaking diaphram.
Old 07-21-2014, 01:42 AM
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Cliff Harris
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Your fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is ruptured. FIX IT NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your engine might look like this if you don't (fortunately I had a fire extinguisher in the car -- that's where all the white powder came from):

Old 07-21-2014, 10:37 AM
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383vett
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Actually Cliff just powdercoated his engine white.
Old 07-21-2014, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
You might pull & plug the vac line from the FPR, start the engine and see if there is gas coming from the FPR's vac port, indicating a leaking diaphram.


And as Cliff so aptly put it. Do it now!

Old 07-21-2014, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Actually Cliff just powdercoated his engine white.
Forum member are extremely creative.
Old 07-21-2014, 03:35 PM
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Take that vac line OFF the regulator and start the engine. GAS WILL spray out of the reg vac fitting. There is no doubt in my mind.

Plan on buying a new regulator diaphragm for about $75 or a whole new reg for around $125 (adjustable)

Hopefully you did not do any damage to the pistons or rods by "hydro'ing" the engine trying to force it to start when a cyl was full of gas. See the other thread about the broken piston skirt.
Old 07-21-2014, 04:55 PM
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Default FPR Bone dry

Originally Posted by leesvet
Take that vac line OFF the regulator and start the engine. GAS WILL spray out of the reg vac fitting. There is no doubt in my mind.

Plan on buying a new regulator diaphragm for about $75 or a whole new reg for around $125 (adjustable)

Hopefully you did not do any damage to the pistons or rods by "hydro'ing" the engine trying to force it to start when a cyl was full of gas. See the other thread about the broken piston skirt.
It's not the FPR ... I performed that test and nothing comes out. I still saw gas in that front vacuum lone connected to the diverter valve before so it's coming from somewhere.

Going to do a fuel pressure leak down test tonight.

Thanks
Old 07-21-2014, 05:17 PM
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Default Just checked the fuel pressure

Idleing the pressure is rock solid at 40PSI. Shut the engine down and the pressure jumped to 45PSI. Within 5 minutes the pressure dropped to 12PSI and so far it's not dropping anymore. I guess that's a fail.

Do I still have to worry about hydrolock?

PS: After more than an hour it dropped to 0PSI

Last edited by 3D-Aircrew; 07-21-2014 at 06:18 PM. Reason: added info
Old 07-22-2014, 02:37 AM
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That plastic vacuum line connects directly to the FPR. I don't see how the FPR could NOT have fuel in it. The vacuum in the plenum will suck the fuel into the plenum and then it runs down into the cylinders. When I took my plenum off after the fire fuel poured out of it.

The right angle connector here on the far left goes to the FPR. The one next to it goes to the plenum vacuum source:

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Old 07-22-2014, 08:58 AM
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Default Must be draining from the plenum

Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
That plastic vacuum line connects directly to the FPR. I don't see how the FPR could NOT have fuel in it. The vacuum in the plenum will suck the fuel into the plenum and then it runs down into the cylinders. When I took my plenum off after the fire fuel poured out of it.

The right angle connector here on the far left goes to the FPR. The one next to it goes to the plenum vacuum source:

One or more fuel injectors must be leaking and filling the bottom of the plenum ... and sucking it through the second L connector from the left.

Like I said before the vacuum connection on the FPR was dry as a bone.
Old 07-23-2014, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rharker
One or more fuel injectors must be leaking and filling the bottom of the plenum ... and sucking it through the second L connector from the left.

Like I said before the vacuum connection on the FPR was dry as a bone.
The injectors are nowhere near the plenum, so that is not possible.

You might have a very slight leak, but your FPR diaphragm HAS to be bad. I wouldn't take a chance. Fires are NOT fun (had two of them).
Old 07-23-2014, 09:42 AM
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Default Thanks Cliff - Do I Need to remove the Plenum?

Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
The injectors are nowhere near the plenum, so that is not possible.

You might have a very slight leak, but your FPR diaphragm HAS to be bad. I wouldn't take a chance. Fires are NOT fun (had two of them).
I got one on the way today ... should be here from Jacksonville this afternoon. What's it take to replace that diaphragm?
Old 07-23-2014, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by rharker
I got one on the way today ... should be here from Jacksonville this afternoon. What's it take to replace that diaphragm?
Just disconnect the throttle linkages, the vacuum line at the back of the Plenum using two wrenches Carefully, or you will dent the rear runner tube, then, unbolt the Plenum and tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it.

Disconnect the AIT sensor underneath the plenum, a couple of vacuum hoses on the rear passenger side of the plenum and one vacuum hose directly underneath the throttle body.

The plenum should just lift out without damaging the runner gaskets. (The Throttle Body should be removed first, if the throttle body coolant hoses haven't been bypassed).

The FPR is now accessible and can be replaced.






.

Last edited by GKK; 07-23-2014 at 11:11 AM.
Old 07-23-2014, 11:27 AM
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Default Thanks GKK

I understand I need a torx 10 security bit as well for the screws on the FPR.

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Old 07-23-2014, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rharker
Do I still have to worry about hydrolock?
Yes it is a big $$ problem that can be easily prevented with troubleshooting now.

Also keep a close eye on the oil dipstick level. If it starts to go up, or smells like fuel, you gotta problem.

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Old 07-24-2014, 02:23 PM
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Default Weekend project

Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Yes it is a big $$ problem that can be easily prevented with troubleshooting now.

Also keep a close eye on the oil dipstick level. If it starts to go up, or smells like fuel, you gotta problem.

Thanks JrRifleCoach .... $22 for the torx security set from sears but now at least I'll be able to work on PS3's and other "no user serviceable" items.

I'll be driving the wife's car while she's out of town and parking the 'vette till the weekend.
Old 07-26-2014, 01:21 PM
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Default Pic's old FPR & API????




Old FPR Diaphram ... Unsat





This fell out of the throttle body





What is this thing????


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