WW7

Like mentioned above , since the pressure is off the threads the bolt should come out alot easier, you can tap down on the bolt to releave any remaining pressure so it may come out easier still..... Also using ARP bolts it the best idea you have had yet, ARP bolts are 15% stonger then stock bolts, plus ARP bolts aren't "torque to yield" so they can be reused.....WW

Get these.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3701
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fpnmf

As an HD mechanic for 20+ years I can assure you I have removed many broken bolts...

It takes patience and good tools..

First thing is tape/seal the top of the block so no debris gets down in there..

File the broken piece flat..

Center punch the bolt..

Use left hand drill bits.. {ez outs are the kiss of death}

Start with a small size..then a bigger one..

If the bit doesnt catch and remove the bolt buy beg or borrow a mechanics removal kit which consists of a fluted piece that gets driven into the hole and a removal piece..

Ya get one chance at getting the bolt out..take your time and do it right..

Craig

ANTI VENOM

What's the difference? An EZ out is a fluted piece that gets driven into the hole.

fpnmf

Simple....the ezout is tapered...driven in it will weaken from the pressure as most folks drive them in waaaayyy too hard..

The pro tool is not tapered.. goes the length of the hole.. has a inside fluted nut that turns the bolt..

Here's an example...

http://store.snapon.com/Combination-...--P630634.aspx


Craig

WVZR-1

An EZ out is a general purpose device BUT I believe the desired tool is a specialty tool meant for specific diameter hardware.

Here's a link to some of the Irwin extractors like I mention:

http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...-522532-series

You can see how easily these could be used by just using the next sized extractor vs. the recommended. The head bolts are 7/16 and I'd say you have maybe two choices, a stretch to the 3d. These are actually Hanson extractors just marketed by Irwin who likely bought the "brand"!

"fpnmf" was posting it looks like when I was getting ready and those are different and maybe not required for the OP. I'd say that the OP maybe didn't "chase" the threaded bores in the block and maybe created his issue. The cylinder head bolt bores need to be "chased" and cleaned to effectively torque the head bolts. Notice I mentioned "chase" and you don't use a "tap" to "chase" threads unless it's a well worn one.

fpnmf

PLRX

Chris, I know this is very bad, and I hope you fix it. The book says something like 90° after the second torque set on factory bolts.

I always tell people not to reuse the old hardware. Many in here will tell you to re-use those 20-30 year old bolts, old bolts have stretch, flex, and contract thousands of times, and now nobody will drive to your house to help.

On my ARP bolts, this was the second time they have been used, and I would not use them again. I re-used them because ARP says they can be used up to three times, but if I brake one no-one from ARP is going to come down to extract that stub off.

There are tools out there for this problem, but I have a simple solution for you. Drill a small hole in the broken stub, punch an allen wrench in it, and screw it off.

I'm very picky, remove all the stuff out, buy new head gaskets, and for Christ's sake, buy ARP bolts, apply ultra torque lubricant, torque 25-50, and 65~70 lbs-tq. Re-torque twice on every pass.

You wanted to save $100-$150....

Christian95

I appreciate all the replies and that's why I love this forum! But to clarify I did chase these threads several times with a chaser and not a tap. I could completely thread the bolts in by finger and thread them out by finger. They were new out of the box fel-pro bolts and most of them torqued alright until this one which didn't even make it to 65 pounds. I've learned my lesson and will go with ARP bolts but still these bolts should have held more than 65 pounds.

PLRX

The important thing on that is for the thread to be clean. I cleaned mine with a small wire brush, and a Milwaukee driver.

So those were new bolts.

Christian95

After chasing them I used a compressor to blow out the dirt. Then chased them again and blew them out again. I'm more of a cautious person and spent the last week cleaning every thing on the block and bolt threads lol. And yup new bolts. That's why I was surprised when it snapped.

ANTI VENOM

Sounds like you did everything right. The damn bolt just broke. I have no experience with Fel pro bolts but I'm sure that 99.9% of them are good bolts.

Thanks for the clarification on the extractors guys. Learn something new almost everyday.
Let us know how you get that rascal outa there.

WW7

You may want to check your torque wrench against another torque wrench to see if the torque numbers are correct...Borrow a wrench and tighten a bolt to 65 ft lbs, then take your wrench and see if it clicks at the same weight.......WW

Christian95

At first I thought it was the wrench but it checked out alright. The bolt is kind of in a tight spot right next to wires and its the one closest to the wall. No room to get a drill centered enough I thought about taking the dremel and making a slot but one mistake and I'm into the block...

fpnmf

Get a drill motor with a 90 degree head...or a 90 degree attachment for yours..

You also could get a small chisel/punch and very carefully try to tap it to get it moving..I would heat it up with propane first..

Last resort would be to bribe a mechanic that has experience to come to you do it...so dont bung it up..

Craig

WVZR-1

Catch a Dremel with a flexible shaft and "drill" or a larger rotary tool with maybe a 1/4" chuck. A very long drill bit could work also.

Christian95

Got the chisel and it wouldn't budge so I sprayed it with PB blaster. Hopefully that will loosen it. I'm afraid of the propane idea lol.

Why didn't I think of that?? I was able to get a pilot hole with the dremel but can't really do much more. After reading stories of the easy outs I don't really want to use one. I don't have any left hand bits and even if I did I don't really have enough room. If only I could make the hole big enough for an Allen wrench I'd hammer one in and use it.

Christian95

I got the bolt! I don't know how but I gripped a little edge of the bolt with vice grips and twisted. Came out pretty easy. Threaded most out with my fingers. Definitely a miracle!

ghoastrider1

better go buy yourself a lotto ticket,,seems your luck has changed.

Christian95

Then buying ARP bolts won't be such a big deal! But seriously I can't wait to have the vette back again! I had her apart for the intake gasket and then I drove for a few days and the head gasket went. Hopefully the new gaskets and bolts don't take long!

WW7

It's always good to hear when things work out well ......WW