why don't my Console, Footwell & Spare Tire Lights work? HELP please
#1
why don't my Console, Footwell & Spare Tire Lights work? HELP please
My console lid light used to work, up until a month or 2 ago after I removed it to measure the length of it. Then I replaced it with an LED bulb and it didn't work. So I put the old bulb in and now that doesn't work either.
My footwell and spare tyre lights have never worked. I recently removed the spare tyre light to clean the lense and install an LED bulb and nothing. Put another normal wedge 194 bulb in there and still nothing when I open the doors with the ignition on/off...
Same deal with the footwell light.
Could it be the G-401 earth point? I'd check it, but it seems I have to butcher up my interior to get to it and want to be sure it's that before doing so.
I really want these to work and it's driving me nuts.
Those damn 44mm LED bulbs for the console & footwell cost me $11 and I had to re-solder the ends on them too to lengthen them by 2mm
Random info:
My interior lights work except the R/H door light. I'm thinking it's blown.
My interior lights don't stay on after closing the doors (thank god) but the lamp timer is connected.
I don't think my hatch switches work either.
The 3 bulbs are all connected/plugged up
My footwell and spare tyre lights have never worked. I recently removed the spare tyre light to clean the lense and install an LED bulb and nothing. Put another normal wedge 194 bulb in there and still nothing when I open the doors with the ignition on/off...
Same deal with the footwell light.
Could it be the G-401 earth point? I'd check it, but it seems I have to butcher up my interior to get to it and want to be sure it's that before doing so.
I really want these to work and it's driving me nuts.
Those damn 44mm LED bulbs for the console & footwell cost me $11 and I had to re-solder the ends on them too to lengthen them by 2mm
Random info:
My interior lights work except the R/H door light. I'm thinking it's blown.
My interior lights don't stay on after closing the doors (thank god) but the lamp timer is connected.
I don't think my hatch switches work either.
The 3 bulbs are all connected/plugged up
#4
I can touch the ends of the console + footwell bulbs with them in the socket/holder (with the multimeter) but not the wedge type bulb for the spare tyre light. So should I take out the bulb then hold the positive wire/pin of the multimeter to one of the contacts in the socket and the negative to the other? What should it read? What setting should I put the multimeter on? Ohms?
(I'm not the best with electrical stuff. My brain refuses to hold on to any bit of electrical info for more than 48 minutes)
One more thing regarding my lights:
My interior lights don't light up with a door open without the ignition switched on. Why is that??? Is that normal for C4 Corvettes? It's not for every other car I've been in.
#7
Melting Slicks
I seen a lot of footwhell lights get unpluged when working in that area and not reconnected I would look at that first. The spare tire light is in a prime location for dirt crud broken connection ect I would check for voltage and ground at the light an work your way foward. to check for voltage with a dvom set to volts the put your black term to a known good ground then use you red term to the wire that should have 12 volts on it. do what is needed that should turn on the light check meter for voltage if you have voltage this would mean you have a ground problem of socket problem
#8
I would check for voltage and ground at the light an work your way foward. to check for voltage with a dvom set to volts the put your black term to a known good ground then use you red term to the wire that should have 12 volts on it. do what is needed that should turn on the light check meter for voltage if you have voltage this would mean you have a ground problem of socket problem
#9
And not one person on this entire forum can answer that ^ question for me? Seriously?
#11
Melting Slicks
I did not see where you said they were pluged in I did see where you said you cleaned the lenze. Sorry if I missed it. I have responded to a couple of your post all in a effort to help you. And in both cases if something was missed or was not clear you come off cocky We try to give help on here sometimes thigs are missed or not understood correctly If you come off cocky when this happens help will slow down for sure. You said not one person on this form can answer this then you say seriously, That to me is as cocky as you can get. I would love to help you and will help you just try to be carsfull with your replies
#12
This was your question:
Originally Posted by Annoyed
One more thing regarding my lights:
My interior lights don't light up with a door open without the ignition switched on. Why is that??? Is that normal for C4 Corvettes? It's not for every other car I've been in.
One more thing regarding my lights:
My interior lights don't light up with a door open without the ignition switched on. Why is that??? Is that normal for C4 Corvettes? It's not for every other car I've been in.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 06-23-2014 at 12:25 AM.
#13
Melting Slicks
Back to the foot wheel light do as I said to check for voltage and a ground if you do not have this when the light should operate then ILL look at the wireing diagram to see where the most locigal place to go from there
#15
Your car I believe is a RHD conversion and I'd think that most of your electrical issues could be related to how the conversion was done. I doubt there's a very straight forward way to approach the diagnostics without having a "hands on"! Unfortunately for you it's "your project". There's a tremendous amount of labor intensive diagnostics involved. Most wiring schematics are nearly useless because the convertor used wire colors of his choice and modified the wiring to suit his needs.
This was your question:
What year and by who was your conversion done?
This was your question:
What year and by who was your conversion done?
#16
I'm not sure. I've never used it. I think it does. It's currently plugged up (the wiring behind it) but the actual lighter isn't. I'll plug in the lighter later and see how it goes.
#17
Here's what I got:
Ignition off - Door open = 0v
Ignition on - Door open = 5.05v on one side and 12.1v on the other
I also noticed that when I open my passenger door (L/H side) the lights don't come on. Only drivers side (R/H).
And I think my interior lights only come on with the dimmer switch on full brightness.
Thanks a lot for all your help guys.
#18
#19
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Member Since: May 2007
Location: Grandville Michigan
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One more thing regarding my lights:
My interior lights don't light up with a door open without the ignition switched on. Why is that??? Is that normal for C4 Corvettes? It's not for every other car I've been in.[/QUOTE]
Yes - your interior lights should come on when you open the door no matter whether the ignition is switched on or not - this really sounds like a bad door switch
My interior lights don't light up with a door open without the ignition switched on. Why is that??? Is that normal for C4 Corvettes? It's not for every other car I've been in.[/QUOTE]
Yes - your interior lights should come on when you open the door no matter whether the ignition is switched on or not - this really sounds like a bad door switch
#20
I can't believe I forgot to mention my door jamb switches
My door jamb switches are really stiff and sh*tty (Probably because I didn't open a door for months last year while doing my engine conversion).
My drivers door jamb is so stiff that when I finally prised out that nipple-thing with a screwdriver and closed my door, it cracked my paint which the nipple-thing contacts. I sprayed a tonne of CRC on/in them last month to loosen 'em up. Sometimes they feel a bit springy but mostly they're stiff.
So if I bought new door switches, would this fix everything + make my lights come on without the ignition switched on?
Everything except the console lid light, correct?
God I hate electrical problems.