C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Let's build a single plane efi intake

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Old 05-20-2014, 12:21 PM
  #41  
rklessdriver
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Use a thermostat housing from a factory GM TPI manifold.



I believe these are the lowest profile availiable for the SBC and will help out a ton with TB clearance on the bottom side.... They are faily cheap too at 26.00 USD.

http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/11909/292

Will
Old 05-20-2014, 02:17 PM
  #42  
LD85
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Like this?






my name is Larry and I'm taking my talents to the C6 section


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1586944254

Last edited by LD85; 05-20-2014 at 02:24 PM.
Old 05-20-2014, 06:47 PM
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BOOT77
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Originally Posted by LD85
Like this?






my name is Larry and I'm taking my talents to the C6 section


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1586944254



Any problems with your external coil cap adapter hitting or rubbing on the hood? I ended up cutting a hole in my hood for clearance. You should mount your coil more away from your header.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ting-hood.html
Old 05-21-2014, 10:36 AM
  #44  
blackozvet
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Originally Posted by rklessdriver
Use a thermostat housing from a factory GM TPI manifold.



I believe these are the lowest profile availiable for the SBC and will help out a ton with TB clearance on the bottom side.... They are faily cheap too at 26.00 USD.

http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/11909/292

Will
the tpi housing faces the wrong way on a single plane manifold ?
Old 05-21-2014, 10:39 AM
  #45  
blackozvet
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Originally Posted by LD85
Like this?






my name is Larry and I'm taking my talents to the C6 section


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1586944254
whats the story with your single plane set up LD ?
Old 05-21-2014, 12:41 PM
  #46  
Kubs
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Here is my single plane setup, but it does not clear the stock hood.







I have no data on it yet. Life events have kept me from taking it to the tack or dyno. As for things I had to change, I went to a small cap disttibutor and remote coil for the air filter to clear, I mounted the MAP sensor to the firewall, and had to drill and tap for some vacuum fittings. Since I also converted to an LS style throttle body I needed some pigtail adapters, but other than that the single plane was pretty much a drop in.

Last edited by Kubs; 05-21-2014 at 01:06 PM.
Old 05-21-2014, 03:19 PM
  #47  
BOOT77
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That should work well with the cowl. Filter looks a little small, I'd try an oval style maybe get a little more surface area. Still I don't know the dimension compared to the oval one or if yours is a dual cone style and not even sure is I like dual cone style.

http://www.kartek.com/Product/573/Ov...hrome-Top.aspx
Old 05-21-2014, 03:50 PM
  #48  
cgantner5150
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Sorry Kubs, I think I referenced someone else earlier in this thread when I was thinking of your setup.
Your setup still has me wanting to do that to take advantage on the L88 scoop.
Old 05-21-2014, 11:12 PM
  #49  
Kubs
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
That should work well with the cowl. Filter looks a little small, I'd try an oval style maybe get a little more surface area. Still I don't know the dimension compared to the oval one or if yours is a dual cone style and not even sure is I like dual cone style.

http://www.kartek.com/Product/573/Ov...hrome-Top.aspx
Those are too long and would not allow the hood to close if I used them. My afr gauge does not show it going lean at high RPM so I should be good.

Originally Posted by cgantner5150
Sorry Kubs, I think I referenced someone else earlier in this thread when I was thinking of your setup.
Your setup still has me wanting to do that to take advantage on the L88 scoop.
If you have any questions I'd be glad to help. Nice to know I inspire people.
Old 05-21-2014, 11:47 PM
  #50  
JackDidley
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Originally Posted by Kubs
Those are too long and would not allow the hood to close if I used them. My afr gauge does not show it going lean at high RPM so I should be good.
If it was not getting enough air, would it not go rich or just run out of power ?
Old 05-22-2014, 12:38 AM
  #51  
BOOT77
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
If it was not getting enough air, would it not go rich or just run out of power ?
Old 05-22-2014, 11:10 AM
  #52  
Tom400CFI
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Originally Posted by Kubs
My afr gauge does not show it going lean at high RPM so I should be good.
Originally Posted by JackDidley
If it was not getting enough air, would it not go rich or just run out of power ?
It would do neither. It's a MAP system (and not a carburetor), so it will provide the right amount of fuel for what ever the plenum pressure is...a restrictive filter would behave very much the same as a restrictive TB...or even as the TB not at WOT. Doesn't go rich or lean when you start closing the throttle does it?

Way to tell if the filter is a restriction is to look at your MAP values at WOT through the RPM range and look for any value lower than the value shown for atmosphere (KOEO).
Old 05-22-2014, 03:39 PM
  #53  
Kubs
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
It would do neither. It's a MAP system (and not a carburetor), so it will provide the right amount of fuel for what ever the plenum pressure is...a restrictive filter would behave very much the same as a restrictive TB...or even as the TB not at WOT. Doesn't go rich or lean when you start closing the throttle does it?

Way to tell if the filter is a restriction is to look at your MAP values at WOT through the RPM range and look for any value lower than the value shown for atmosphere (KOEO).
Next time I have it out I will check that.
Old 05-22-2014, 09:12 PM
  #54  
blackozvet
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Hey Kubs with your manifold water temp sensor, did you use an adaptor ?
I was looking at where to put it, the sensor is about 5/8" thread but the threaded hole in the manifold is bigger (a 3/4" will fit in that hole)
If i use an adaptor and it sticks up too far it will most likely hit the bottom of the TB / IAC.
Old 05-22-2014, 10:53 PM
  #55  
Kubs
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
Hey Kubs with your manifold water temp sensor, did you use an adaptor ?
I was looking at where to put it, the sensor is about 5/8" thread but the threaded hole in the manifold is bigger (a 3/4" will fit in that hole)
If i use an adaptor and it sticks up too far it will most likely hit the bottom of the TB / IAC.
Yeah I used an adapter. Height was not an issue in my case. You can see mine just to the left of the water neck.



My manifold had 4 bungs I could have used. Two in front and two in back (next to the distributor). Is there one out of the way you could use?

Old 05-22-2014, 11:48 PM
  #56  
blackozvet
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thats an idea,
but if i used a rear bung would it matter if it takes its water temp from a place where the water comes to a stop so far from the thermostat ?
Old 05-23-2014, 01:12 PM
  #57  
Kubs
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Im not sure if it would matter or not. You could also put it in the head. Each head has a port (also 3/4" I believe) but only one is used for the gauge.

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Old 05-23-2014, 09:06 PM
  #58  
blackozvet
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Originally Posted by Kubs
Im not sure if it would matter or not. You could also put it in the head. Each head has a port (also 3/4" I believe) but only one is used for the gauge.
Im thinking the one at the rear next to the distributor might be the best spot, also the loom containing the CTS wiring runs along there too,

I was thinking it would come up to temp quicker at the rear as it would be reading water in the engine block, opposed to the front sensor location which is reading water on the radiator side of the thermostat ?
It would just mean it would go into closed loop mode quicker if the sensor was at the rear.
Old 05-23-2014, 11:20 PM
  #59  
Tom400CFI
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
I was thinking it would come up to temp quicker at the rear as it would be reading water in the engine block, opposed to the front sensor location which is reading water on the radiator side of the thermostat ?
In reality, it's not going to matter one bit. Water is circulating fast enough that the temp at the rear of the motor will be a couple degrees different than the front, at most. Either way, it's ALL on the "same side of the thermostat" -which is the "engine side". What is on the other side is the upper radiator hose.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; 05-24-2014 at 02:09 PM.
Old 05-24-2014, 01:53 AM
  #60  
blackozvet
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[QUOTE=Tom400CFI;1586972104]
Originally Posted by blackozvet
I was thinking it would come up to temp quicker at the rear as it would be reading water in the engine block, opposed to the front sensor location which is reading water on the radiator side of the thermostat ?
/QUOTE]
In reality, it's not going to matter one bit. Water is circulating fast enough that the temp at the rear of the motor will be a couple degrees different than the front, at most. Either way, it's ALL on the "same side of the thermostat" -which is the "engine side". What is on the other side is the upper radiator hose.
yeah i didnt explain that well, what I was referring to is cold start up, the water wont be moving anywhere in the engine coz the thermostat is closed, it would circulate slowly in the block as the hot water rises i guess, which means that point at the rear of the heads/manifold would get hotter sooner, and if the sensor is at the rear, go into closed loop sooner, well that is my theory anyway
but your right, I doubt there would be much difference overall.
I just raised the question in case someone piped up and said "dont do that because of (insert reason here)"


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