ppinto1

I previously ran the Hot Cam in a Gen-1 engine w/Fast Burn heads. It had pushrod guide plates and adjustable rockers. There was no noticeable valvetrain noise.

When my LT4 was stock, the valvetrain was't *too* noisy... But, for two years now, I've been frustrated whenever I drive with the windows down while stopped at a light I read in another post that it sounds like a sewing machine. That might be putting it mildly!

I want to make the move to adjustable rocker arms. I'm thinking of these two parts from Jegs:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...rentProductId=

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1225483

Can anyone comment of whether the studs will work - and if the rockers will fit under the stock covers?

Sleazy Rider

if you're going to new rockers and studs, why not go to 7/16. if you are replacing roller with roller, should fit.

cv67

Some modded motors seem to be quiet others arent seems like something to just live with unless theres a real problem with the fitment or parts themselves.

Try a solid roller with .026 lash.Personally I love it

mtwoolford

I have an LT4 and I'm no great fan of it's self aligning rockers; the ears seem just a tad to small to effectively keep th rocker on the valve tip. I'd seriously think of upgrading to guideplates.

ppinto1

Thanks everyone. Mtwoolford - do you think guideplates make that much of a difference? I wonder what the cost would be to go with them and hardened pushrods?

mtwoolford

I can only relate my experience. When I first bought my LT4, I pulled the valve covers; one LT4 rocker was completely off the valve tip and the locating tabs and lifter body had been damaged; two others were askew on their respective valve tips, but undamaged.

Let me emphasise that STOCK LT4 rockers may LOOK like other rocker arms, but they are a one of a kind, one year only item and are EXTREMELY expensive (as I recall about $75 each, IF any are still available). What makes them unique is that they are mount on a 10mm non adjustable pedestal style stud. Nothing interchanges with them and they interchange with nothing.

So I believe that changing out the original pedestal studs and original rocker arms for the more usual and proven adjustable studs and rocker arms is the way to go.

Are guide plates and hardened push rods worth the extra cost over a replacement set of self aligning roller rocker arms alone ? Thats a debate for others with more valve train experience than I, but at some time in the future I personally plan on going with guide plates and hardened push rods. Like I said I'm no great fan of self aligning rocker arms.

STL94LT1

I haven't checked rocker arm prices in a few years. But, at one time you could buy non self-aligning rockers, hardened pushrods, and guide plates for about the same price as self-aligning rockers.

I'm on my third set of roller rockers. If I had it to do over. I would start where I ended, Comp Cams 7/16" 1.6 roller rockers, ARP 7/16" studs, TrickFlow hardened push rods, and TrickFlow guide plates.

ppinto1

I'm not sure I'll ever upgrade to the point where I need the added strength (or so I think...). When I ran the Fast Burn heads in my '76, I had pretty good experience with the 3/8" studs - but I was using guide plates.

I decided to go with the self aligning adjustables that GM sells with the HOT Cam kit - and the studs that come with new LT4 heads from GMPP. I'll post how it goes!

Thanks for all the opinions and advice.

STL94LT1

Those will work just fine with your setup. The first set of rockers that I ran was Crane Gold self-aligning, the same rockers as the GMPP's. They were the quietest of the three sets I have ran.

ppinto1

Update: The installation went pretty well. The rockers still make a little noise - but you have to be about 18" away to hear it with the valve covers on; where you could stand feet from the car before - and still hear it!

Was it worth almost $400? I'm not sure. I'll have a more thorough opinion when I scan and tune if my knock readings are more steady.

I am much happier with how it sounds when I'm next to someone at a light, though!

mtwoolford

you do realize at one time 'noisy' valve trains were cool ? A Pete Jackson "noisy" gear drive, A Duntov 30/30 cam with solid lifters and .030 valve lash; ah sweet, sweet music.

STL94LT1

My valvetrain is noisy enough if I an driving next to a building or barrier I can hear it ticking like a sewing machine.

Tom400CFI

Cars also got 10 mpg, topped out at 115, car "stereos" had one crappy speaker, and "bucket seats" were a couch, cut into 3rds. Not everything from the "old days" is desirable.

GREGGPENN

Are you sure you're not hearing your injectors? Oil weight and pressure can make a difference too.

ppinto1

STL94LT1, that's exactly what was driving me crazy. There's still a slight noise - but I don't think it's different from when the LT4 was stock.

GREGGPENN, my oil pressure looks good. If my gauge is correct, it's always around 65psi when above idle. I use 5w30.

mtwoolford

I don't know what car you were driving but none of that applied to my 1961 vette

Tom400CFI

Really.

Here is a '61 interior. Notice the (ahem) "bucket" seat. Looks about like a bench seat, w/the middle cut out. No head rest at all, no bolsters what so ever...not what *I* would call a bucket seat.




A 'Vette may have gotten mid teens, fuel economy wise due to the lowish weight...but most cars from the solid lifter era got 10-12mpg.

As for top speed...you're telling me that you're '61 went better than ABOUT 115? What did it go? 118?

And how about that '61 ahem...."stereo"? With it's bad-assed single paper wheezer in the center of the dash? I was wrong about that too?


In case you were unable to figure it out, I was pointing out that not all features (such as noisy valve train) are considered desirable today. I'm sure some people like some of those characteristics, but I don't, and the OP doesn't seem to. Just b/c we tolerated it "yesterday", doesn't mean that we have to, today. SO, to make that point, I highlighted some of the less endearing qualities of older cars; crappy gas mileage, crappy seats, crappy radios, etc.

cv67

115 in a C1....you dont want to go any faster
Cool looking horrible driving

QZRBLU

My '61 Fuelie would do more than 115 in 3rd gear. 123MPH 1/4 miles were routine once I found a clutch combination that would hold up. It was a .060 over 327 with a 30/30 Duntov cam. Totally street driven for about 60K miles before I sold it to a guy in LA. It may still be out there somewhere, solid color Fawn Beige original Fuelie that I purchased from the original owner in 1969 while stationed at VAFB, CA.

QCVette

I have been considering going to a set of 1.6 roller rockers for my LT1.

Why do you like these parts the best? Or what didn't you like about the others?

Thanks.