lt4obsesses

I'm glad you made this post, as this is my next major project. I think however, that you will be suprised by your Vette after doing this job. Comparing a 19 y/o Vette to a suspension modded Miata or WRX, I can see where you would come to that conclusion.

Note that the later C4's had a somewhat softer suspension than some of the earlier ones. Ride quality was an issue that GM had to address. But last year I changed out my old FE1 Bilstiens with the Z51 Bilstiens, and even with my old worn out bushings, she feels pretty connected. I'm just waiting to get all pars together and the time as I plan to do all my u-joints and half shafts while everything is apart.

vinniemc

You're not the first person I've heard say this. I bought the Prothane kit but have yet to install it, I'm going to keep it for certain bushings but plan on buying the Banski heim jointed rear suspension kit and Global West del-a-lum front kit. I've heard nothing but good things about both.

Why do poly when you can save up can get something better?

dizwiz24

Amen to that. Also, some of the cost is in the labor to press out bushings, etc.

if i have to pay labor either way, im gonna put the good stuff in there

even my swaybar end links are heim joints now.

All this said, there are still some places (like the stablizer u clamp bushings), where poly is the only option.

1dmurray

I just replaced the rear spring cushions on my 96 with poly cushions. Made a big difference in ride quality. Very easy to replace.

mixalive

I have a couple of questions:

I see that I can purchase the Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings with or without the bracket. Are there issues during installation using the factory brackets?

Also, is there a big difference in the Red or the Black besides the color?

dizwiz24

i have this brand and used factory brackets fine. Just be sure to get the diameter of your bar right when you order as there were a bunch of different sway bar size options.

I went with black. Dont know About the red.

mixalive

Thanks, Diz

astock165

I truly believe the "harshness" of a rod end rear suspension has become a bit of an old wive's tale at this point, especially with the advancement of the products that some US bearing manufacturers putting out.

That being said, you won't see that improvement unless those advancements are integrated into the product and that's what we tried to do: revisit the design, bring in the latest and best rod bodies (turnbuckles), rod ends and boots to protect them.

Keep in mind the rod ends we use have a Teflon lining so there is no metal to metal contact between the ball and the body of the rod end. This helps reduce noise and vibration. That, combined with improved grip gives an overall feeling of a better ride, even on the street, according to many of our customers.

We're also working on a new option that will hopefully address some of the fitment issues that can be had with using our kit with coilovers. A new clamp for the ends that is slightly lower profile. I have a set out with a customer now and hope to get his feedback soon. In fact, if there is anyone out there with our kit that would like to retrofit theirs with these clamps, please contact me and I'll be happy to discuss further.

Below are some images comparing the two. They are CAD images but rest assured that they're accurate and to scale.

Just the two, side by side.


Profile comparison of the two, in blue and red respectively.

GREGGPENN

For street car application, I like the look of EM trailing arms better (even if they use jam nuts instead). For those polishing the natural alum of the rear suspension, I prefer silver versus the Banski red. (Thought you might like to know color was a consideration, Tom).

I did the toe-bar's last fall. Might do the trailing arm mod this summer.

Interesting diversity of feedback regarding the various suspension "upgrades"...from poly, to bearings, to poly-graphite, to heim joints, etc...

astock165

That's certainly understood. I've gotten a number of inquiries over the years regarding color options. Like anything else doing things in bulk helps us control cost. Thus, making everything the same color lets us do that.

There are options though. I can always supply un-anodized (natural) aluminum. That's a great option for polishing & clear coating or powder coating a different color or a clear anodize. Unfortunately for me to supply those services usually adds lead time to an order as my machine shop makes everything in batches and then sells me what I need so it's a matter of if he has any that haven't gone to anodize yet.

They're also making a steel option now as well. Again, these can be painted or powder coated if supplied unfinished. I plan on having a standard offering of a nickel finish for those that want a more natural metallic look. In fact I should have a set in a couple of weeks and will try to post some pics when I get them.

Anyone should feel free to contact me before ordering to discuss options.

All great feedback and a great discussion.

Elrick

can someone post a few pics of the heim joints.would like to see some pics of your front and rear suspension set ups. I am in the same boat as the op here.

astock165

Here are some pics from a website update I'm working on. Hope they help.

astock165

For the front A-arms I had a custom setup that I made as a prototype. It used Delrin & Aluminum bushings that I had made but there's no reason not to use the Global West product as it's high quality. I designed and used a 3 piece upper spindle rod to make assembly easier and it gave me some adjustability for fore and aft placement as well as how much "squeeze" was on the legs of the A-arm.

I did some experiments a few years back and found that with the stock setup their was some amount of bind in the vertical motion of the front knuckle (neither the spring nor shock were attached at the time) because of the squeeze on the upper spindle. I was able to use my setup to adjust the squeeze to zero with little or no fore/aft play and the front knuckle moved as freely as a bird. As long as you haven't introduced any bind in the lower control arm.

Sorry, can't find any pics right now.