Won't pass emissions in new jersey
#21
Melting Slicks
To get a code 15 the ecm is seeing a temp of 0 or less. a 160 stat should not cause the code. my quess is a bad sensor or a bad connection at the sensor. I would still replace the stat for the simple reason for I think GM knows more about these cars and where they need to be to be running at then any boby. I still run the 195 stat and never had a problem and with you failing I would waant to get what I can back in spec.
#22
Le Mans Master
Fan switch not really. Thermostat has more to do with operating temperture. The cooling fan switch merely turns fan on, does fan constantly run? OEM fuel system designed for 195-205 operating temp. Since port style fuel injection came out there really isn't and advantage to the super low operating temp. The exception would be an engine that has carburetor or that won't run properly with available fuel and trying to combat pre-ignition/detonation. I would suggest trying 180 long term or swap 195 in to get through I/M test. O2 is the bigger issue, you will not pass if car won't go into closed loop.
#23
Melting Slicks
To get a code 15 the ecm is seeing a temp of 0 or less. a 160 stat should not cause the code. my quess is a bad sensor or a bad connection at the sensor. I would still replace the stat for the simple reason for I think GM knows more about these cars and where they need to be to be running at then any boby. I still run the 195 stat and never had a problem and with you failing I would waant to get what I can back in spec.
#25
Safety Car
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 3,783
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
11 Posts
Yes, among other things.
I'm afraid you might be in for a very expensive and frustrating time.
Be prepared to remove the Headers along with the modified exhaust and also, the Catalytic Converters which might be damaged due to the high unburned fuel they were exposed to.
Here in California, Emission testing is No Joke!!!...
I'm afraid you might be in for a very expensive and frustrating time.
Be prepared to remove the Headers along with the modified exhaust and also, the Catalytic Converters which might be damaged due to the high unburned fuel they were exposed to.
Here in California, Emission testing is No Joke!!!...
#26
Le Mans Master
Try to focus on what O2 is doing that is the bigger problem. Car is not being driven during testing. Odds are it will get hot enough. Recalibration for higher operating temp on a street car is unlikely unless spark knock is present.
#27
Mcgee, have another chip reflashed, to have it run leaner, and you will need to keep a little more heat in the engine, here in Jersey they put the older car on the dyno and simulate a certain speed. When you start playing around changing cams and tunes on the old OBD1 here in Jersey they become a problem to get thru inspection. The OBDII don't go on the rollers, they're check at idle speeds. That's why when my vette turned 25 yrs old I put the historic plates on it.
Randy
Randy
#31
New o2 sensor
Fan switch not really. Thermostat has more to do with operating temperture. The cooling fan switch merely turns fan on, does fan constantly run? OEM fuel system designed for 195-205 operating temp. Since port style fuel injection came out there really isn't and advantage to the super low operating temp. The exception would be an engine that has carburetor or that won't run properly with available fuel and trying to combat pre-ignition/detonation. I would suggest trying 180 long term or swap 195 in to get through I/M test. O2 is the bigger issue, you will not pass if car won't go into closed loop.
#32
I would disconnect the battery for about ten minutes. This clears all the learned fuel to air mixture/ratio's and any other learned data including error codes. Start the car without pressing the gas pedal and let it idle for five minutes making sure that it get's up to operating temp so it goes to closed loop. Next take it for a ride and ramp up speed wise multiple times getting more aggressive each time. Next hit the highway and hold it at a steady speed for five minutes. By this time it should have learned new mixture rates and idle rates. Now check for codes and see if they are the same or something different. This should be done each time you change any fuel related components/sensors.
The reasoning for this is it will try to run the engine with bad data learned from misleading sensors prior to you changing them. This could cause error codes which are themselves misleading. Clear everything out and give it a chance to relearn with the new part/sensors. Try not to hit the throttle for the first five minutes because that just confuses the data and makes the new learned data questionable which could lead to new errors.
I agree with everyone else. You need to get this into closed loop. You will never pass smog testing without it. Closed loop ties the injector pulse width timing to the O2 sensor readings trying for the perfect fuel mixture. The fact that the car thinks you have perfect fuel mix readings and yet at the same time it's running rich means you have a bad sensor somewhere. Most likely an O2 sensor misreading. You may have to go to a four wire self-heating O2 sensor if it is too far away from the exhaust manifold. They won't read until they reach a certain temperature and therefore won't go into closed loop. Most people with headers have to use them.
The reasoning for this is it will try to run the engine with bad data learned from misleading sensors prior to you changing them. This could cause error codes which are themselves misleading. Clear everything out and give it a chance to relearn with the new part/sensors. Try not to hit the throttle for the first five minutes because that just confuses the data and makes the new learned data questionable which could lead to new errors.
I agree with everyone else. You need to get this into closed loop. You will never pass smog testing without it. Closed loop ties the injector pulse width timing to the O2 sensor readings trying for the perfect fuel mixture. The fact that the car thinks you have perfect fuel mix readings and yet at the same time it's running rich means you have a bad sensor somewhere. Most likely an O2 sensor misreading. You may have to go to a four wire self-heating O2 sensor if it is too far away from the exhaust manifold. They won't read until they reach a certain temperature and therefore won't go into closed loop. Most people with headers have to use them.
Last edited by Klyde; 12-15-2013 at 05:02 PM.
#34
#36
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 0
Received 300 Likes
on
274 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
I'm running a 160 degree stat and a 185 degree fan switch could that be the cause for code 15?
For >12yrs I ran a 160deg t-stat with fan on and easliy passed the OH E-Check in the middle of Feb.
#37
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2010
Location: Buttzville N.J
Posts: 5,521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My failed when I took it on a cold day. I have my fans on a switch. Which I turn on so it wouldnt over heat. It failed because it never got hot . The next time I got it hot. And it passed. And has ever since. And I have some motor work done.
#39
Safety Car
Suggestion
Try charging up your battery. Seems if the battery is down or the alternator isn't putting out enough juice it can trigger the SES and/or abs lights.
Had the abs light on mine, charged the battery up and the light went out.
Good luck