hooked073

the proper way to replace a connector or anything electrical on a car is to solider it then heat shrink

WVZR-1

The GM 25036092 would be the original what you refer to as "coaxial". The earlier GM 10045847 would be the preferred replacement. No wire-nuts ever for automotive.

I would find it maybe hard to believe that an '84 wouldn't have the newer style already done.

ToniJ1960

I guess thats the first thing to do when I start is see if its been changed before then.

I read you can use wire nuts if you secure them so they dont vibrate apart. I could get a 12 volt soldering pen, 30 watts out in the freezing cold doesnt sound like enough I think 40 watt at least. If I start on it before I get the soldering pen to use outside ill go ahead and use wire nuts until I do solder it.

ToniJ1960

I think I found it at least. Is it about a half inch below where the top radiator hose goes to the block and a half inch towards the pasenger side from there? If thats it its super old cruddy etc and looks like it wont be fun to try to get to change it either.

WVZR-1

I'd say you've found it. That's NOT the block but the intake manifold, not that it's important. BrakeKleen, carbcleaner or engine cleaner might enable you to ID the connector to see if it's original or not.

Here's an original and a connector:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COOLANT-SENS...-/300984050038

ToniJ1960

I did read its in the manifold I dont know what happens to my brain sometimes thanks for being kind.

I guess thats it then it sure wont be easy to get hold of it in there Somewhere I read you have to take the smog pump out. I guess it might help. I see I could get a wrench on it without doing that getting to the wires wont even be as easy the opposite of what I would expect. Oh well.

I also see another oval connector with that same round pin laying loose behind the smog pump or ac compressor.

WVZR-1

Compressor would have a switch with a single pin. The switch is retained in the compressor with a "snap-ring". Connector would be different than the CTS - if it's original there should only be one like it in the vicinity.

ex-x-fire

I seem to remember that my cts sensor had a locking cover over it too.

Rohn

winALDL has a schematic to build your own ALDL cable(radio shack). your connector is not USB. A couple male conectors flattened will allow access to the connection.

ALDL cale is not needed to read codes. The CE light will flash out codes that are visable.

Faulty coolant sensor often shows cold coolant causing car to run filthy rich.

ToniJ1960

Thanks, I meant an aldl cable that connects to serial or usb on the laptop.

My CE light comes on every time I drive and usually goes out while Im driving. I tried the paperclip and all I get is 1-2 1-2 1-2 over and over I watched a couple dozen of them, so I was thinking data logging might be a good idea.

Im not getting very good mileage in the city 9 or 10. I had the plugs changed about a month ago and they were all covered in black suit or however you spell it.

I think I located the coolant temp sensor but not sure if Im ready to try to deal with it. Its not easy to get to.

Also theres a black oval connector behind the ac compressor I think it is, that has the same round pin in the middle, thats not connected. It doesnt have the locking tabs on it.

Rohn

I dont know what i was thinking. My ALDL cable was serial to laptop. My new laptop is USB. So if I still used winALDL I would need to use a RS adapter USb/serial. Not sure if RS sells a USB connector. Maybe they do. If you buy a premade cable i would use Craig Moates.

My coolant sensor was easy to access? Other connector may be EGR?

ToniJ1960

I have to get a way to take apicture maybe Im looking at the wrong sensor? It is just about a half inch lower and towards the passenger side from the top radiator hose outlet. It looks like I could get a wrench on the hex part but getting to the wires or connector is pretty tight. I better drain some fluid if I do change it because it wont go in real fast.

Is that egr connector oval shaped black with a round pin it? And connects around the front of the manifold towards the passenger side? What will it affect if its left disconnected?

Edit I just looked at an egr solenoid connector it looks like they have two or three pins.

In fact now I see an AC switch connector that looks like it could be it. So I will no longer be concerned with that one at least until Summer.

Rohn

Manual shows front passenger side a number of sensors.
engine coolant
air control and air switching solenoid ??
IAC
EGR is pass rear

If EGR is disconnected it may throw a code.
It should be removed in prom if present as it advances timing when it functions and well as the code.

jadedvette

The EGR in a 84' won't throw a code. The 84' computer doesn't even know the engine has an EGR. If your interested in warming the car up faster, you can get a universal 3 wire O2 sensor. Hook one wire to computer, one to ground and heater wire to 12 volts. O2 sensor heats up quicker and car goes into closed loop faster. Good luck, Joe