Frank-in-San-Diego

I replaced the oil pressure unit, and cold the pressure is up to 20 (still low) sooooo, off to drop the pan.

As for the permatex theory - I don't think so, I used a small amount on the intake front and back and that is it. As for the idea that there is coolant in the oil - don't think so. No sign of that - the head gasket issue is solved.

The manual tells me the problems could be:
- Slow Idle speed - Nope - not that
- Incorrect of malfunctioning oil pressure switch - Don't think so
- Incorrect of malfunctioning oil pressure gage - Nope - it is new
- Improper Oil - same oil - Nope
- Diluted oil - Nope
- Oil Pump worn or dirty - Maybe
- Plugged oil filter - maybe (with a bolt?)
- Oil Pickup screen plugged - Maybe
- Excessive bearing clearance - Nope
- Cracked or porous or plugged oil galleys - Very possible
- Galley plugs missing or miss installed - Nope

So, the pan is coming off. AHHhhhhh
-

BOOT77

Bolt couldn't make it to your filter or past the pickup screen. GL hope it's a simple clogged pickup.

You did put a new oil filter on after the headgasket fix right? Oil pumps are cheap and might as well put a new one on and if you don't tac weld the pickup use one of these http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...51362/10002/-1 and make sure you check the pickup clearance from the bottom of the pan.

Frank-in-San-Diego

It is not the oil filter - the old one was clear and there is a new one in there now.

The pan is loose, and I am having a few issues getting it free. The pressure was at idle only, I did not push it. I have to get the two 45 degree braces out and the two studs closest to the trans. Any idea where the coolant line runs? One side (left) has a rubber hose that was easy to separate, but the other side runs above the cross member and I can not see the termination yet.

Dirt, dark and tight

94z07fx3

BTW dropping the pan is easier with #1 at the top of its stroke.

Churchkey

Coolant tube on a 90 tee's into a heater hose below the AC compressor.

Luck with your project.

Baller

Here's a thought. you notice how the distributor or any of the priming tools have a collar down low. That's to seal off the feed for the lifters so that the oil flows up through the push rods to the rockers, etc... I wonder if it could have fallen in there somehow and is restricting the flow? Not sure but it could be possible that is where the sending unit takes its feed from as well.

I haven't been able to find an oil flow diagram to verify any of this. Also another thought is that it may have actually broken something and created leakage somewhere internally. Low pressure could also be caused by oil by passing the normal route i.e. a small hole allowing oil to drip back into the the crankcase.

Frank-in-San-Diego

Well, I have the pan out and the bolt was in the bottom of the pan. The distributor hole goes directly to the crank and it looks like the bolt rode the crank into the top of the casting and broke in half. From there I think it hit the oil pump shaft. I am going to replace the shaft and the oil pump and see if that does it. i think the shaft is bad, but I will know soon.

cv67

arp makes a real reliable one lotta work eh? May as well pop a few caps and check bearing condition just to do it.

BOOT77

GM dist fit nice and tight, is what I've read and some cam manufactuers reccomend you accually cut a small path on the bottom so it bleeds oil onto the dist/cam gears. MSD distributors have an o-ring on the top and bottom too seal and you are supose to prepare the block so they don't cut/break when installing the distrib. I never knew that with my 1st one and the o-rings came installed. The bottom o-ring ended up in the pickup and top is still on that dist. My new msd doesn't have the o-rings installed. MSD has a pic explaining the prep for their dist o-rings. MSD aslo reccomends leaving the bottom off to oil the gears as well I think.

FYI I have a groove cut dist and have bout 30psi warm at idle


Hope the new pump & shaft helps!

cv67

I dont use the orings either

This sprays a stream of oil on the gear no noticeable oil pressure loss



Dont think its needed though soon as the engine turns 1 revolution even by hand the gear will be doused in oil

Baller

Good to know...

Chuck Tribolet

I'd be worried about what the bolt did to the crank and casting. And the advice to pull some caps and have a look at bearings is good. Plastigage (sp?) will let you check the bearing clearances.

ex-x-fire

The factory sbc distributor has a oil groove it the body that is not fully machined like the aftermarket on pictured, so if the distributor body is positioned different then it could cause pressure problems. I've seen the part clogged up on poorly maintained sbc too.

Frank-in-San-Diego

Thank you one and all - You (all) were very helpful. 50psi at cold idle, drops to 40 at warm idle, no overheating problems. I think I messed up the timing a little (no timing light) but running well. Done, completed, fix, el finnito!!

Ahhhh

Raidmagic

Glad that worked out for you. That coud have been really bad.

cv67

that was fast!
Wanna come finish up installing my trans for me getting too old for this and its funner to watch others work

Frank-in-San-Diego

Thanks - Actually It does not seem fast to me. I feel like I spent a lot of time at it. It was an education. I think I will put a jag down that hole next time.

BOOT77

Glad it worked out for yah.